Jump to content

Glen

Members
  • Posts

    502
  • Joined

  • Last visited

    Never

Everything posted by Glen

  1. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Nissan-240-260Z-SU-Side-Draft_W0QQitemZ160213288104QQihZ006QQcategoryZ6763QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
  2. Hi, my oil gauge when i turn on the iginition goes to maximum and then to minimum, After a little reading it seems i need a new sender as the gauge is working. Does anyone know where can i get a brandnew one from in melbourne? cheers glen
  3. Hows the planning for the phillip island day going. i wont stay overnight (married kids) but would like to view and discuss some other Z's
  4. it would have worked if i had all the vacums right but i just threw the old balance tube on.
  5. Your missing the whole point, im not spending money on a emission test nor am i going to spend money on fixing some carbies that i wont be keeping. Im not removing any emission gear, if you read my post correctly im swapping the balance bar so i can still run the emission gear. The tunability of the 240 carbies is what i need to pass the RW. Even though ben (RWC Guy) wrote emissions problems on my sheet after speaking to him he said it was more the fact that the car was backing firing and farting all time. As for calling me dumb im not sure why you would say that but id prefer if you didnt respond to anymore of my thread questions as it appears you have alterior motives.
  6. Hi, After my RWC appointment one of the issues was emmisions, basically he said that because my car ran like a bag of shit he couldnt pass it for RW, so i bought some original 240 carbs with a e88 manifold from Zfactory. Now because my car is a 77 model it has to have emission crap on for the rwc. So what i thought i would do is swap the balance bars so i can still run all my emission points. Will this work? also there is a vacum line called the "Throttle opener control valve" Im still trying to figure what it is as i dont have a nipple to attach this vacum to. It picks up right next to the dizzy vacum. any ideas? cheers glen
  7. thanks mate thats great, i can drop by and do a pick up. I will get the 280 coil off zworks tomorrow and if its ok with you can i drop by pick it up then. I think i should get by installing it hopefully but you never know Thanks again you saved me a lot of money. cheers glen
  8. sorry lurch i missed this, are they plug and play aswell, are they hard to source and what sort of $ would i be looking at paying for one with a coil. sorry about all the questions just need to tick all the boxes first.
  9. I just ordered a scorcher and then after reading this thread cancelled that order. Zedman240, im in Dromana, so that would be a 45 min trip for you if your still keen. How much would you be wanting for the dizzy and do you have the coil aswell or should i chase one of these up. I bought a indicator assembly off zworks but it turns out i dont need it. should i exchange this for a 280 coil. I appreciate the offer for you to come down but if its to far i can pick up from you. I have this week off from work trying to sort the car which im almost done
  10. had a look at scorcher's but they are $500 with coil. Is a 280z plug and play or would i need a auto elec? I have replaced leads, sparkplugs, rotor button, points and a friend set the timming. it ran ok for a short time and then started backfiring and carrying on etc now its running like a sh!tbox again. so i decided on electronic distributor instead. Is there a less expensive ($500) distributors around?
  11. i went over all the vacum hoses under the bonnet and found just about all of them had splits. cut the ends off, reconnected them and now i have a fully functioning heater controls thanks for your help guys
  12. Ok so is it the vacum hoses i need to have a good look at is it isnt changing from front vents to windscreen, well it isnt changing at all. This is the last thing on my list for rwc so im a bit keen
  13. As the picture shows the stalk is in LH indicator mode, I opened up the screws to see what was happening. I noticed after a little playing that when it moved into this position it would flex the negative points away from each other. Only by a fraction. This is the result of the LH positive points being oversized and thus forcing negative points apart. It's hard to see in the picture but there is a large gap there. My first solution was to bend the board a little, i broke it but some 406 put it back together. So what i did was carefully file away on the LH copper point untill it stopped moving the 2 negative points away from each other. After 10 to 12 goes i finally got it just right. Before i did any fileing i would press on the negative points and use my force as a indicator to see how much further i had to go. As i filed more less force was required. Also the white wire isnt my dogdey work lol
  14. had a quick sticky, as much as i could with a torch. I found some small vacum hoses which seem to be in good nick, not all the air ducts are hooked up. The tempreture lever all seems to be working except of course it's getting no hot air. I guess i will get right into it tomorrow. How im looking forward to that..........
  15. mine is 77 2+2, air operated switching, sounds interesting. Im just about to check the water valve control to see if it jamed shut, also i checked both the intake and return hoses into the core (under bonnet) and they are quite hot however the heater core itself seems to stay quite cold.
  16. No worries, will do tomorrow with photos
  17. Hey, im going for rwc soon but i need my heater working. I'm hoping to borrow some ones experience please. At the moment it just blows cold air straight out. If possible id like to change the heating position to demister (window) and some hot air aswell. I have read about vacum lines being cracked and there for making the direction control useless. I cant even find the vacum lines to start with so i cant check them. Also should i check the water core valve? Sorry for the silly questions but i bought the car in its current state so i dont even know if the vacum lines went back on after the bare respray...
  18. hello, My problem is no indicators, i pulled the assembly apart and found the switch to be very grimey. i cleaned it and put it back together to find i now have RH but the LH. LH only works if i exert pressuse to negative connection on the switch board. All the connection points seems to line up but for some reason theres no action. Using a screw driver on the back of the exposed side and the indicators work fine. Im at a loss so im looking for another switch if possible or another idea of how i should be going about this. Ths all belongs to a 77 aswell. cheers glen
  19. Thanks for the quick replys pauly and Rev, i have a new rotor button + and leads sitting here and getting some new plugs tomorrow. Hopefully like you said cleaning up the points/cap aswell it will start and purrrrrrr. ATM no rev tacho either, it comes on, rises and then is now stuck at 2900 RPM. No tacho light aswell and no heater fan.... the list is getting longer but not to long. cheers glen
  20. ok so i picked up my first Z today and was wondering where a good place would be to source spares and setup some tripple carbs for me later down the track. ATM i think it is only running on 3-4 cyclinders and im thinking ignition problems. edit, im in melbourne aswell SE suburbs.
×
×
  • Create New...