Zedman240®

Got one here if you want.... PM for details...

If you get them from a wrecker, they would probably set you back around $80 or so.. Center Rd wreckers has plenty of R31's. Hand brake can be made to work with a bit of tinkering.

Is that the one on Grange Rd? a 2+2 with a front spoiler? Green I think?

Should sound nice with that 6 piece orchestra under the bonnet! sweeet

Well done...would it be close to running by the Xmas meet?

Mike, they are known as 250Z's... not by engine capacity though! Scoota, that looks very home made that speaker hole.

Anything is possible and would be great to see...just depends how many dollars you throw at it (or what good friends you have!).

Yep, even a decent hit of the wheel from behind by backing into a gutter can bend those brackets. I eventually found a pair that were straight and that solved the crab crawl.

My first 260Z I had used to crab crawl; problem I traced to the two bits of "L" shaped brackets that come from the floor behind the diff and support the rear A arms bushes towards the rear and that straight part that runs right across the rear of the diff. One of those brackets was bent by about 4-5mm. If you remove them and put them back to back, you can easily see which one is bent. It's a pretty easy fix if that's what it is.

Yet again with great timing another christening I have to attend..so I'll be missing out again.

A 3.7 diff would be doing 100kph at just under 3000rpm. 3.5 ratio would be a bit lower again. A 3.5 for the V8 should be ok. All auto 260Z's had the 3.5 diffs. The 3.7 was standard in the manual 260Z's. 240Z had a R180 3.9 diff but with different ratio's in the gearbox.

Welcome Tony, Good luck on the search! If you can, try and use that 7K you have for work put towards buying a zed that has had a bit more work put into it; if it has had a resto, ask for pictures taken during the build to prove what work has been done. Good advice from Ross, when you do find one, take another person with you to check.. it may save lots of headache afterwords.

Do you need the whole top cover or just where the jets sit (black or white nylon type)? i know some Alfa mechanics with a heap of spares that may be able to help.

There may just be a heap of unburned fuel in the engine; get it hot and hopefully that should clear all the fuel from the motor. If it still does it, start checking all the other sensors.

He probably had NFI what you were selling and may have been told the P90 heads are the "heads to have!!" without knowing what they were made for. There are bad buyers out there; one left me negative feedback because he didn't read the ad correctly. I was selling 3 lights separately and the ad stated the auction was for ONE only and buyer had choice to buy the other two if needed. he showed up and asked to buy all 3 for the price of one. Took it up with ebay to get the negative removed but that was pointless even when I proved he was in the wrong. I've learned next time you place an ad, be very specific about the details and explain it to them as if they were a 4 year old. Even then you expect negative feedback.

Try unpluging the cold start fuel injector; it may be stuck open. From memory its located near the throttle body.

Have some sort of rev limiter just in case you miss a gear etc... cheap insurance. When I had my flywheel / clutch balanced I was told lucky i didn't run it the way it was; it was so unbalanced I could've destroyed it all!

What sort or revs are you planing on going to? My healthy L28 was only revved to around 6500 and that survived pretty well with standard rods. Just made sure the flywheel / clutch was well balanced..

Last time I saw that zed it didn't have that much surface rust...You have started with a zed with some goodies already there..manual with 240 carbs. Let the work begin!

Wellcommen Lachlan...

Our house should be sold by then so I should be able to attend..

It has been a pretty cold winter as well Simon... who wants to work in a coolroom?

I used a Facet pump as a lift pump without any issues with my setup; but when you will chasing large HP, it may not be enough.

Hot wires means excessive current flowing > possible short. Remove the starter motor and check it with a set of jumper leads. Connect the negative jumper lead clamp to one of the mounting ears and the positive to the solenoid where that large braided wire goes into the motor itself. It should spin at about 2000ish RPM with a bit of a kick at the start. If you have access to a clamp meter, measure the current on the positive cable. It should be around 300 amps.

Greetings Justin, Keep your eyes open and ear to the ground and you will find one. They seem to pop up as you drive through suburbs parked under trees.....