PeterAllen

Justin's post (here) has whet the appetite even more for our upcoming Tassie trip. Occurred to me that perhaps most (all?) LSx powered Zeds will be in Tassie at the one time and it might be a chance for me to catch up with a few. Preliminary planning suggest a schedule something like this; Day 1 Devonport - Cradle Mountain Day 2 Strahan - Queenstown Day 3 Drive to Hobart Day 4-5 Port Arthur and East Coast Day 6 Tamar Valley Day 7 Launceston (Longford ) Devonport Mick, Justin, Scott, et al - If I will be travelling close to your location, I wonder if you could PM me so we might be able to work something out. Dreamin'

Paul. Having undertaken a rebuild in a single car garage the first thing I would suggest is a modification to the rotisserie mounting brackets. With the car held at 900 it creates more working space. You should make the axis of rotation 75mm above the bumper bar mounting points as this will allow one-person, single-hand rotation. You may find with your rotisserie you will then need to extend the vertical posts of the rotisserie (est. 20-30 cm) to ensure the body clears the ground.

There is no chance cars will disappear as the preferred mode of transport. I was in one of the wealthiest areas of Sydney yesterday and almost half the women I saw entering or alighting from cars were wearing torn jeans. They obviously preferred having high-end European cars than buying new clothes.

Panel beating is far more of a dark art than people recognise. Don't be fooled by the seemingly effortless skills shown on Youtube. If you have no experience It might not be a bad idea to attend this course before you create more problems than you already have. https://classbento.com.au/intro-to-motor-body-restoration-customisation I have no affiliation with this company

Three people can easily lift the shell on and off the rotisserie (done it several times) and place on a car trailer.

I contacted the seller of this car back in 2008 as he had imported a Ferrari motor from Japan and then didn't quite know what to do with it. I suggested he make up a 250 GTO. I pointed out the 260 (in Tassie and, I think, for sale on eBay) and he bought the car and collected it. I later advised him of a 250 GTO kit available which I believe he purchased. He was involved with the Soarer Club and owned a Ferrari Testarossa. Fitting the Ferrari motor to the 260 would have in all likelihood required stretching the wheelbase and therefore most likely classified it as an ICV build. It appears he has done very little, if anything, since he purchased it in 2008. His item description appears to me to be quite truthful.

Probably not, at least not without fiddling around with lengths and the attachments to wiper arm spindles. The end which you had seized, and which on the Holden holds the rubber fitting for the ball joint, is thinner on the Holden arm. I removed the extra plate/shim which is spot welded to the Datsun arm and the boot fitted perfectly. It was only then I discovered the thick 'S' arm attached to the motor was the same fit (including PCD and off-set) on both cars, so I just bolted the entire Datsun assembly, including the 'S' arm, directly to the Holden motor. Interesting that the two wiper motors were made nearly 35 years apart but had common fittings! One thing I learnt on my hybrid build was how much car manufactures are really just car assemblers, and how many components are shared across makes and models.

I'm trying to remember this from my old images but I think the spring just ensures the thick arm off the motor doesn't foul on the first long arm. With a bit of a soak in WD40 it should rotate a full 3600. The spring acts as a kind on variable thickness spacer. You can see how Holden achieved the same functioning by using a greased rubber boot on the end of the long arm. It allows 3600 rotation of the ball joint and a little bit of rocking of the arm.

There should be a nut on the end of the wiper motor shaft. Undo that and you should see two flats machined near the start of the thread. Place the rectangular slot on the end of the wiper arm over the thread and locate on the machined flats. I swapped the Datsun for a Holden motor but they are a universal application.

'gilltech' is absolutely spot on. His post rang a bell and I've just checked in the shed and I used 'Penrite Copper Eze'. I probably got it from Bursons. I think (?) I also used it on the spindle pins and the door hinges. Sorry Peter, but just yet another 'senior moment'.

Peter. If I recall I just used some bearing grease, BUT, I fitted new rubber caps over the ends. You'd probably need something that isn't going to flow below 500 considering they can be exposed to direct Qld sunlight.

The problem is at your end - so to speak. Photobucket have tried to block free 3rd party posting but Google have addressed the problem by creating 'extensions'. This should do the trick if you're using Google Chrome. If you're using Firefox or something else you might be able to mimic these instructions. Click on the 3 vertical dots in the top right hand corner Click on 'Settings' Click on 'Advanced' Click on 'Accessibility' Type in "photobucket" to the search box in the top left hand corner Click on 'Photobucket fixer' You should see 3 extensions appear - Select each of them. Restart Google and you should see images on all forums. I think Photobucket would stand a better chance taking on Kim Jong-un than Google! Possibly Gary could make some sort of tacky sticky about this Photobucket issue?

Memories... I had one just like that and sold it 36 years ago to help finance a house purchase. Too old to ride now otherwise I would have been first on the queue.

It's the earlier one with only two contact points. Basically the contact points were worn/burnt. I've tried bending the rocker arm and stretching the spring but each modification only seems to work for a short period.

After several attempts to repair the OEM switch I've given up and performed an upgrade. I found this process on HydridZ but I couldn't locate the switch suggested. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/125801-repair-solution-for-bad-turn-signal-switch/ I found this switch at Bursons and after grinding away a bit of the dia on the toggle arm it worked perfectly. I've included locations of the holes - best done before cutting the plate to size. The hole sizes are 3mm for the securing screws and 11mm for the switch.

Have you tried; Powers Fasteners Coventry Fasteners Nut & bolts Tasmania. If they don't have a 'castellated nut' you can fit two blades to a hacksaw and cut your own slots or, if you have a steady hand, use a cut-off disc in an angle grinder.

Yes, you're right Mick. Greg didn't state front LCA in the first post and I assumed (!) he was referring to the rear. I've found one is struggling to move the outer end of an OEM front LCA 15 mm, so I'd be guessing a bushed rod end would be the same. I can see from the photos Greg has the Ford radius arm so is looking for extra castor. Out of interest, how much do you push the front LCA forward (increasing the wheelbase) to achieve a desired amount of castor for road use and again for track use?

Plenty of eBay from the UK e.g. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Sealing-Boot-for-M14-M16-or-M18-Male-or-Female-rose-joint-rod-end-Dust-boot-/182744806248?hash=item2a8c707368:g:li0AAOSwvzRXztLk

They have little similarity in appearance but they perform the same task. Just a few posts down from the link I provided earlier. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/11329-adjustable-rear-control-arm/?p=195414

The suggestion was to CONSIDER using 'Bushed' rod ends rather than the spherical rod ends. They are still rod ends and allow camber adjustment. My thinking is that rod ends are great if you are constantly altering the suspension set-up, but for road cars the reality is the suspension is very rarely altered from one setting to another. In that scenario why not use a more durable item. Spherical rod ends are precision engineered item and thus required an operating environment to complement that degree of preciseness. It is many years ago but I used spherical rod ends on racing cars and they were high maintenance items with not much longevity, but that's the nature of racing equipment. Look, I just made the post with the intention of providing information, it was not a directive. If you don't like the idea don't take it up.

You have further confirmed my suspicions about spherical rod ends on road cars. Have a think about going this route. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/11329-adjustable-rear-control-arm/?p=163678

PM sent

This must be a Gen Y - Gen X thing. You don't necessarily need a long thread to have good information, sometimes just the first reply is spot on, AND IT WILL BE GOOD INFORMATION FOR OTHERS IN THE FUTURE. If you were inquiring about 'carpet' wouldn't one just go to the interior thread and search for 'carpet'. Often there are numerous threads on the topic containing a range of interconnected information. If not, start a thread so there is still a SINGLE section containing all information on a particular topic subject. KISS Grumpy Old Fart.

Be careful here. You would be assessing 'play' from the clutch through to the wheel bearing using this technique. To check the diff, grab the pinion input flange with one hand and output flange with your other hand, and rock back and forth. You need to check individual components not the system.

I know my car's rear end is a bit non-standard and I have the Wilwood brakes, etc, but I chased a similar sound for months - even swapped the diff. I simply never considered the brakes as it occurred after hard acceleration without touching the pedal. As Cozza knows, I now believe it to have been an issue with the brake calliper/pistons/pads - probably not bedded-in in some fashion. After removing the rear wheels and sitting the LCAs on Cossa's hoist, engaging second gear and gently applying the brakes for 10 minutes, the problem went away Try hard acceleration while applying light pressure on the brake pedal and see what happens. I know this sound completely absurd but I hate to see folks going through the mental anguish I went through, so just give it a try.