PeterAllen

Slot car track looks like Sandown.

Here is what the chap stated: "These are pla - which is the basic printing material, it is sugar starch based so no nasty smell when working with it, but it will go soft at a fairly low temp - 70 odd deg. I can do some in abs which is an oil based plastic that will handle a lot more heat, but smells like an oil refinery when printing. Or if you give me a few weeks I can probably do some polycarbonate ones - very tough. I'll send these over so you can test them, if they show signs of going soft I'll do some abs ones"

I had someone make a few.

Excellent - a 21st century solution. Well done and thanks for sharing.

Peter, thanks, I'll take you up on that offer. Have you used that device on a Zed?

Spindle pins are no problem for me but the tie-rod ends are proving too stubborn. Has anyone used a suitable puller, e.g. pitman arm puller to help release? When I was building the car I tried to remove the ends with the suspension off the car but gave up and left them on as they were not worn. Now that I've lowered the car I need to fit alternatve arms but they still won't budge. I've tried soaking in penetrating oil (vegtable oil and acetone) for days and belting the tripe out of the steering arm but no joy. I haven't used a pickle fork as I don't want to damage the boots. Any suggestion for a puller or technique? Thanks I don't want to go down the same path as this chap! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/647514-removing-very-stubborn-tie-rod-ends-how.html

Might it be simple enough to warm the arms a bit and bend them the other way?

If this is a 240Z then make sure you use the original 240Z spacers. They will be stamped 'A', 'B' or 'C' and the original 240Z stub housing will be stamped with a MATCHING 'A', 'B' or 'C'. The 260Z axles may have come with spacers, they will only work if the markings match those of the axle housings. Pretty sure I've got this correct but confirmation would be reassuring.

Might it be reasonable to organise 3 of these each year, one north, one south and one west. As we have just had one down south perhaps we should be looking at the other two options. The new car museum at Gosford is my suggestion. Are there any go-kart tracks or the like around Katoomba or Lithgow for a future 'west' event The next 'south' might be at the Aircraft museum near Nowra. These are probably slightly longer so they might not suit most owners?

Thanks to all concerned.

No worries Ian, I saw the road signs last night coming back from the 'Bullets For My Valentine' concert and panicked a bit myself. I checked when I got home, so that's how I knew it was the 6th. John, do we leave Loftus at 8:00am or is that the meeting time for a later exit? I have to do a few things beforehand but can be there at 7:30-ish if that's what's intended.

Ian. I think the Syd-Gong is the week after, i.e. 6th.

When you use the spray can hold the nozzle with your other hand to keep it secure. If you are spraying in a tight area (e.g .rails) and you bend the nozzle it will dislodge and disappear down inside the rail. Don't ask me how I know this...

Sold the piano years ago as I needed more space in the lounge room. Sad to say I think I got about $50 for it...

David. Every considered MDF... Knocked this up yesterday.

I ummed and ahhed about this for some time because I changed from an original idea of a full leather interior, a la road Ferrari, to a spartan interior, a la race Ferrari, after seeing real GTOs at Goodwood and Pebble Beach. I liked the Spartan look (and it was cheaper!) so I've decided to try using the car with no insulation nor sound deadening for 12 months. So far I've only been on 50km runs but I haven't found the noise or heat an issue - I do have Vintage Air installed but I haven't run it. The extractors a ceramic coated which I was told would make a big difference but apart from that I'll be starting from a raw base (except for 2 pak paint and anti-stone chipping underneath) and observing how it goes through a Summer and Winter before considering further options.

Crikey... I bloke would have to be a complete idiot to create all the individual hybrid components for the engine bay and not expect interference issue when they were assembled together.

In

Wally, you're not easing my fears about an inspection. Basically I'll do whatever he/she wants, even if it means standing in a tea chest and singing Jerusalem.

Wally, that's exactly what I'm proposing to do. Both you and the engineer will know what's going on but say nothing except perhaps, " I'll probably get some different wheels when I have some money". Even something like this fitted with your own tyres which you later transfer to your present wheels? http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/prestons/wheels-tyres-rims/four-15-x-5-5-steel-rims-with-185-65-15-tyres-4-x-114-3-stud-pa/1124858539 My problem is I can't get any 16" wheels within the offset allowable range that clear my handbrake callipers.

I would have thought that can be addressed in the baffle design during construction.

The in-tank assembly does away with all that complexity. The gauge sender in incorporated. You young fellas are in a time warp...get with it!

YES. Coming up to 11 years... but oh so close. Started December 2005.

The disappointing aspect from my perspective was I had to have a somewhat narrow tank at accommodate the huge mufflers (rego) and at the same time having the GTO twin exhaust. I've subsequently positioned the reverse lights to try and hide the narrowness in a rear view.

I made my own to suit my requirements so it may not suit your needs, however, there might be something of interest. - As mine is for road registration I just adapted all the fittings off a donor car - filler, pump, breather, etc. Easy for spares and hopefully suits the engineer. - Machined a coupling to suit a standard in-tank pump and welded it to the top of the tank - I dislike lines coming off the bottom of the tank. - Created a filler opening behind the number plate - minimises the amount of shielding required (not yet finished on mine) to prevent the filler being exposed to the cabin space. I also made a substitute rear panel frame, but only to mount the GTO bodywork. You could do the same with a standard rear panel.