PeterAllen

That's not perfect. For starters, holes have been drilled in the recess for the headlight covers, presumeably to secure the trims. Eveyone knows that tabs should be created inside the headlight scoops for this. Need I go on...

Ross, as I've mentioned to you before there is no such thing as a perfect GTO replica. They are never finished nor perfect, they are a process. You need to look out for rust under the fibreglass. All can be repaired of course but it's harder going (more expensive) if you have to cut away the fibreglass to repair the unibody and then replace the fibreglass. Good luck, your patience will be rewarded and this one looks like something worth further assessment.

Mick. I ran a die nut over the existing thread as the rod was a little bent near the lock nut and I had straightened it, but I thought running if further might leave the new thread exposed to corrosion. Last Wednesday I sat in the car, started the engine, selected 2nd (it jumped out of 1st!), let the clutch out and drove it out of the shed. I believe it's the first time since 1998 that the car has moved under its own power. The doors are still causing headaches.

You must be psychic, I had a ride in an ambulance yesterday but all is okay. Thanks Mark. I understand what you are saying about re-clocking - was that with std. cables or WOSA's? I read where some pommies had made tube sleeves (about 35 mm long)to slip over the long rod and alter its lock nut position. It's simple enough so I think I'll try that first.

Remove the lower arm (transverse link) and the strut assembly as one unit. Lay it on its side and spray penetrating oil on the shaft at the end and through the hole where you have removed the locating pin. Spay every night for a week before even attempting to remove the spindle pin. Make a spindle pin puller (see web for designs) After the week break the spindle puller trying to remove the spindle Redesign a stronger pin remover. Remover spindle pin Ask oneself why one bought an S30 If it ain't broke don't fix it - Just use a wire wheel in a hand drill to clean it up, no need for blasting.

Mark. I feel sure all WOZA's cables would be the same and the issue hasn't been raised before so i must be doing something wrong. Does this look correct? Justin - I'm using standard 260Z 27 spline stub axles. I'm only running 7" rear with narrow tyres. I'm pretty sure it will break traction before it breaks anything mechanical.

I've modified the rear brakes a bit. I have Wilwoods with a modified version of WOZA's parking brake mount. Warren supplied the cables but I remember there was a need to open up the tunnel mounts as the cables were designed for 260 fittings. I'm just wondering if the cable lengths are the same for 240 and 260 2-seaters?

As the title suggest. I've fitted a new cable but seem to have run out of adjustment before the parking brake actuates? Wondering if I need a cable specific to the 240?

Sikafex 221, available at Bunnings, etc. Black or white, so get one that contrast with the colour of the shell so you can see where you are going. Apply Prepsol and then the sealant with a sealant gun. The trick is to get a 30-35mm wide brush and cut the bristles down to about 10-15mm length and then IN ONE STROKE brush the sealant into any gap whilst flattening in out. It doesn't have to be pretty, just effective.

Approx 36mm bore, but it's a press fit so the nominal dimension and tolerances are required. Mate, you've asked for the inside dia of a bore, you'll have to explain to me sometime what other diameters a bore can have!

Attitudes and interests change over time. Here is an example: In 1975 group of Z owners, all aged 40, discussed where they should meet for lunch. Finally it was agreed that they would meet at Wetherspoons in the city because the waitresses had big breasts and wore mini-skirts. In 1985, at age 50, the owners once again discussed where they should meet for lunch. Finally it was agreed that they would meet at Wetherspoons because the waitresses were attractive. The food and service was good and the beer selection was excellent. In 1995, at age 60, the owners again discussed where they should meet for lunch. Finally it was agreed that they would meet at Wetherspoons because there was plenty of parking, they could dine in peace and quiet with no loud music, and it was good value for money. In 2005, at age 70, and still Z owners, they discussed where they should meet for lunch. Finally it was agreed that they would meet at Wetherspoons because the restaurant had disabled parking and a toilet for the disabled. This year, now age 80, the friends discussed where they should meet for lunch. Finally it was agreed that they would meet at Wetherspoons because they had never been there before.

Mine was just the opposite. I had to grind the mount out to the larger 260Z dia.

Z432 http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/2015/03/14/marketwatch-nissan-fairlady-z432-sold-for-253000/ At today's rate $253k US is $350k AUS

The chap got back to me stating they were VERY expensive and the fit of the splines was very loose. All that glitters...

Sorry folks but this is not going to happen. The details are being frustratingly devilish. Hopefully something in Spring

Drop by and pick them up or PM me your address and I'll post the templates to you.

I sent an email regarding the JCI mount and tension rod, if you get a chance can you reply. Thanks.

I don't think you will find any from 1073 - they were all destroyed at the Battle of Hastings, seven years earlier! Here is mine - 3/72 = 530mm

Unfortunately for us they are a one-off from Finland of all places. I've contacted the chap to see if he is interested in making any more. They are for the 260Z 27 spline pattern.

It does, and I was careful to ensure it was located correctly. Thanks. Success... I just needed to eat more spinach. The car's underside was painted with 2 pak and later with anti-stonechip. Although I was careful to mask-off areas from the anti-stonechip where items were attached to the underside, e.g. suspension, brake lines, etc., the 2 pak must be much thicker than the OEM paint.

That's what I thought, but it doesn't seem to work. I threw away the OEM Datsum hoses years ago and I'm inclined to think the Wilwood (Arizona Z kit) hose have the groove at a different spacing...

Do they slip inside the plate or go over the top? I'm not having much success either way. Anyone have a photo of an install. Thanks

WOW. That's some special kind of Stanley Knife you have there that cuts out floors!

Isn't that what John DeLorean used to say!

Dan, check out these little beauties!