PeterAllen

John. I have an issue with a 'knocking' noise in the car's rear end. I have rebuilt it a dozen times trying to firstly identify and then fix whatever is wrong. Someone came and strapped a Go Pro thingy under the car today and we did a bit of filming. I've loaded it to show the amount of flex the components are experiencing. Not happy Jan. I think you are on the right track but it looks like I need to redesign a few components - Bugger!

Folks I'm in desperate need of the five minute loan of two 16" or 17" wheels. Cozza lent me two 16" wheels but they have a step which fouls on the callipers (see photo). 16" without the step should fit and I'd feel pretty sure any 17", or plus,wheels should be okay. Sutherland, Sydney. I'll offer a drive of the GTO as a thanks (you're under no obligation to accept!). mobile = oh for one juan oh nein won ate sex seven.

How is it run? Just fastest A to B? Stages each day? Regularity? Other? I couldn't see anything on the site. Thanks

Not a chance, she's got class - except when it comes to husbands!

Just took some of my own advice and phoned Famous. $443 for full on-road comprehensive at $50k value Don't need it for a couple of months but then I'll ask at the $80k+ it owes me.

I recall seeing that race at Catalina... that must be a good 5-6 years ago I'd reckon!

Geoff. Was that an original Broadspeed Mini you passed on the last corner of the last lap?

I've had Shannons 'laid-up' insurance for years... unfortunately! I raised the value from $17k to $35k last year and the policy was around $400. I came across something on the Cobra site where they had insured a full road registered Cobra replica for <$400. I'm sure the value of that particular car was well over $35k. Struck me a bit inconsistent. I wouldn't just go straight to one insurer, I think it best to get a range of quotes.

Nice to know LSx-S30s are considered 'collectible'. Needs to be careful reassembling. It was only Qld approved and I think SA requirements may be different. Not a major problem but a problem none the less. National approval will raise the value of a completed car.

Congratulations Gary.

Spot on Gary. The silver car is #10786, mine is #10763 and has toolboxes. My VIN plate is stamped 3/72. I my opinion there is nothing wrong with a 'cut & shut', if done correctly, i.e. a staggered cut through the 'A' pillars and good penetration weld. The bad reputation comes from poor workmanship and stolen halves.

Hey Gary, give the guy a break, how do you expect him to remember that when he's so old he can't even remember people's names.

BS.

They're only $150 from Campsie Auto Glass (not sure of exact name). They'll quote you more but you can bargain them down to that figure. Mine is fitted without sealant so I can remove it for the final painting without damaging the seal.

That's a very risky approach. I'd suggest you engage one soon and set out all you propose to undertake and get his response. They all seem to have their own idiosyncrasies and you are best to know what they are Mine wants door intrusion bars and a high mounted stop-light, neither are required on a 1972 car, BUT, he is allowing a whole range of modifications which others may question. I've contacted him on numerous occasion (in writing - email) to seek his determination on this and that. He dropped by to see the car finish welded on the rotisserie and he was pleased with what had been done. I know when I finally submit the car it will only be a matter of workmanship that he will review, You shouldn't have to pay all the fees upfront, I didn't. Oh, nearly forgot. By engaging sooner rather than later they end up giving you free consulting advice, not simply the approval. When you set out before them what you propose to do they can sometimes offer alternatives, based on their experience, which can save you time and money..

I don't know how you plan to fit the gearbox mount for the Rb26 but here is something I did for my LS1 install. Rather than use the common 'bolts through the floor' technique, I fitted some sleeves to the rails prior to their installation and have mounted the gearbox mount/cross-member off them.

Such a car doesn't exist...

If the measurement is from the absolute outer edge of the inner rim to the hub mounting face then unfortunately mine are 100mm.

Are you just talking about the standard after-market wheels, like these?

Six degrees of separation... I raced an ex-Larry Greenhalgh car (#24) 45 years ago. Back to the topic.

Listen Hughes, if I was any younger I'd come up to Tamworth and I'd... I'd... I'd... ah, forgot what I was gonna say.... Thanks John, but there's still a fair bit of commissioning details to be done.

I didn't quite have it ready for the get-together last weekend but I've had an Unregistered Vehicle Permit for three days and I've finally taken it for something of a drive... at long last. Interior Cape Solander yesterday George's great image from last weekend

I would suggest the fibreglass guards would be heavier than standard steel ones but a fibreglass bonnet would be lighter. The steel guards have curves and folds which give rigidity, however, the flat steel bonnet requires a secondary frame for support which probably makes it heavier than a fibreglass bonnet. Not certain, just my thoughts.

A standard Boss 260. That car deserves one more photo. His next project is Nissan powered (see blurry photo)

I'm sure many hybrid builders, and others, will be saddened to hear of John's sudden passing http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/125158-rip-john-coffey-johnc/ I had some direct dealings with him several years ago and he appeared to be a really decent chap. His postings on HybridZ were always worth a read.