PeterAllen

Or a GTO.

As a former student of philosophy I can tell you this is not a new topic by any means. If these chaps couldn't agree on a resolution then I wouldn't waste my time trying. Just get down the shed and keep working. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ship_of_Theseus

Luxembourg. Been there, done that... Twice in fact. Should add, I enjoyed it both times.

How dare you. Ugly car - Volvo. You oxymoron.

Hylomar. Used it on Rolls Royce engines, racing motors and road cars for 50 years.

Perhaps have it somewhere near a railway station, some of us retirees can probably lash out on our $2.50 'travel-anywhere' ticket. Gee, 'staying back for a few drinks', that bring back some memories PS. Make sure it has good toilet facilities for us oldies!

Image attached. Thanks

Too old, too slow, too stupid, is my guess.

Anyone notice that according this site Dave had a VERY BIG birthday this week gone.

Ready to be picked up. I'll obtain quotes tomorrow for the interstate orders. Perfect fit, but I can't see much through it - not very transparent!

John. If you have not done so you might want to give some consideration to inserting crush tubes at several points along those rails. That was how I mounted the gearbox cross-member but I regret not having made and fitted pair so I could have also tied the rails together closer to the diff. You might also consider a smaller pair to mount the tail-shaft safety strap. If not used they are not a problem. I even fitted some in the rear rails so I can mount it back on a rotisserie if needs be - the GTO body work now covers the OEM rear bumper bar mounts.

All done guys... Show me da money!

Gavin. I widened the pad area on the brake and clutch pedals to accept the Holden rubber pads. You could probably do something similar.

Deleted - double post

Ordering 5 windows today (1 x 6mm & 4 x 4mm). Last chance.

There has been some interest in Perspex windows at 4mm thickness and I've spoken to the moulder who stated there is no problem making them at 4mm. The compound curve shape will also add rigidity and by my rough calcs the 4mm thickness will bring the weight down to 3kg. I'll extend the deadline to 9.00 am tomorrow, 13/1/2016 if there are any more members interested.

Alex, a lot of race cars with thinner sheet run one or two straps over the window to stop it blowing out. I don't want to do that and that's part of the reason I've gone for 6mm. I'm actually going with the perspex because it has better UV resistance, i.e. doesn't yellow as quickly as polycarbonate (Lexan) and it's much easier to buff out scratches. http://www.plasticgenius.com/2011/08/plexiglass-vs-lexan-matchup.html

Alex, a good point. I can't be sure of the OEM thickness as I'm not going to be using an OEM seal. It was the thickness of the door glass and I've just followed on from that. Can someone help us out by measuring the OEM rear glass thickness? The glass being used as the mould (thanks George) is with the moulder?

I tried to fit a perspex window by simply cutting a sheet of perspex to size and then holding down the corners to give a curved shape. That was easy enough to do but a large portion of the window still had a flat appearance and looked crap. These windows will have the same compound curves as an OEM window.

I'm having a 6mm Perspex rear window made by a specialist plastics moulding company. The price is $280 for a one-off, or $240 each if two are made. I don't know if three or more would be any cheaper so figure on $240. Pick-up Sydney. A glass window is 6.5 kg and a perspex one in 4.5kg (approx using my bathroom scales) Any interest? I must know by midday tomorrow 12/1/2016. 9.00 am 13/1/2016

Good work John. If, with me, we end up with nothing else from these projects we will have greater admiration for industrial designers, particularly automotive design engineers. I can only reiterate from my very hard earned experience, but keep an eye on the complete assembly, including ancillaries. I'm now trying to plumb heater hoses and it is proving harder than an engine install. On the point of a 'complete assembly', how is the clearance for the exhaust with the new frame rail running down the firewall?

I might have this wrong but this is how I understand the 240Z system works. The little brass unit which sit above the diff is a reservoir set-up which initially allows more fluid to flow to the rear cylinders when the brakes are applied. This is required because the return springs in the drum brakes which drag the the shoes off the drum displace more fluid than that displaced by the retracting front discs. The other little doovalacky in the engine bay is merely a safety device which ensures at least two brakes will work if a brake on any corner fails; I don't know that there is an actual brake bias feature in the system other than the piston sizes of the slave cylinders. I'm not 100% on this!

I found something on a Datsun forum the other day that some may find of interest. Apparently there is a process in Photoshop, HRD, which creates something of a painted appearance to a normal image. See posts #85 and #86. http://zclub.net/for...?t=23234&page=6 I wonder if one was to to put a favourite photo through this process and then have it printed on canvas how it might turn out? My car is not finished otherwise I'd try it.

This is going to depend on how much you intend to use it. If you are intending to do a total restoration and ongoing work you should consider investing in a compressor and buying air tools. If you are only doing patch work, buy the cheapest and throw it away when it plays up. The bearings are the issue with sanders and they all, whatever they cost, suffer from any dust, particularly fibreglass. Save your money for car parts. My 2 cents worth!