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reverendzed

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Everything posted by reverendzed

  1. Thanks Hayden, couldn't have done it without all your help! Hopefully interior will be finished by next weekend. Plans are for Motor to go in on Anzac day! Rev.
  2. Did the reupholstering of the front seats today, fiddly, annoying BUT worth it in the end! I think I'm just getting a bit over it at the moment...but almost done! The seats are indeed from a Suzuki Cappuccino. Rev.
  3. Yeah, good question Fu, I was talking to someone the other day who also mentioned it so I think once mine is out of the workshop (about 4-5 weeks) this is something that I will do. Rev.
  4. Yep, Craig I called him on Tuesday night, he's OK. Rev.
  5. They might but the arm rests were different....I'm sure someone should know more than me about it.
  6. Hi guys, I've decided to get someone to fit the front screen, I have the new rubber and wondered if anyone can recommend a mobile person. I know Windsceens O'Brian etc do it but I've also heard they are renown for not giving a damn! I don't want my new paint chipped in the process. Im in Narre Warren on the South East side of Melbourne Rev.
  7. Sorry tim, I should have replied earlier i was after trims for a 2 seater. rev.
  8. Hi folks, As I am attempting to get this fledgling ZED resource business going I'm keen to hear from as many as possible the kind of products that you would most likely buy if you could get your hands on them through a no fuss, quick, web based (searchable) Australian Zed Parts resource that is actually involved in the Zed community. I'm also keen to look at any spare parts either to buy or consign that I can list on the new ecommerce type site that I'm building. Got any suggestions email me or give me a call on 0 four 0 9 six 2 zero 4 4 3. Rev.
  9. Thanks maddos would be greatly appreciated. Rev.
  10. Don't get to worried. My workshop is about 7m X 6m as a workarea and I've pumped out a number of Zeds in the last couple of years! Rev.
  11. Hey...that's me! http://www.wix.com/revzed/Revs-Zed-Emporium
  12. Played with putting on the new door skins today, fiddly work but well worth the effort. Rev.
  13. I'm trying to find out where (BESIDES EBAY U.S) that I can purchase a boss kit short hub. After putting my new steering wheel on yesterday it seems that with the standard boss kit it protrudes out too far (because of the 'dish' of the wheel.) Any ideas? Rev.
  14. If no takers on these, I'll take them. let me know how much and I can organise freight. Rev.
  15. Today's update for new interior. These are not the seats I'm using they are just for a test fit with the carpet etc. Rev.
  16. Hi Zrevival, one of the first things to check is that the hole in the lid of your cup is clear that will often change your spray results as it will reduce the amount of paint that is fed through due to creating a vacuum. Usually the sandiness is a result of too much air & not enough paint or painting from too far away. (make sure you thin 1 1/2 thinner to 1 part Acrylic e.g 150ml thinner to 100ml color) You need to have your gun about 7" from your surface and yes it should lay down wet. Your first coat should be lighter to act a s a key or tack coat however subsequent coats need to be double header coats which means that you are overlapping your spray pattern by 1/2. You can only sand before clear coat if it is a non metallic color, if you have sandiness in your color coat then yes wet sand, dry off and then clear coat you should get a real nice wet coat laid down for the clear. Hope that helps. Rev.
  17. Thanks Pete, It all depends! As this is my keeper I wet color sanded after 3 coats of color and then went back a couple of days later and laid down 2 more color and 2 clear coats. If you are getting neither of the typical spraygun extremes (orange peel:too wet or dry spray: too much air not enough paint) forget color sanding and leave it all to the end. If you put at least 3-4 coats of clear when you come to wet sand you will have a thick enough paint later to sand all the high spots and then cut and polish to a terrific shine.
  18. Yep, that the right way to go! You should always paint your hood on a horizontal surface. Just put it on some saw horses or the like. When you paint it make sure you have good paint flow and lay double header coats then walk around and do the other side, it will come up fine. When you put your clear coat on thin it a little more and put a good flow coat on, this way you will avoid the typical acrylic dry spray that can ruin your finish. Rev.
  19. Well done Pete, it's all down hill from here! What are you going to do with the primer are you going to rub that and then topcoat? Rev.
  20. Thanks Hunter I appreciate your generosity. I think if I can get the genuine article it would be great. Rev.
  21. Yeah Garvice for the 2 seater, sorry should have said that!
  22. Hi guys, Not sure if anyone can help? I need rear tail light surround/garnish both left and right. Top $ paid for quality garnishes. Rev.
  23. If you have the original 260 box (and there's no reason to think you haven't) it's worth fixing. These boxes are a little like hens teeth and quite sought after, so definitely worth the money (4-500) to have recon. I think Kyle (oozla) may be able to help you with a rebuild (he's on the forum) Rev.
  24. My post above applies to my 1974 2 seater...245's on rear with 8" rims no probs! Rev.
  25. Hey Scoot, I sprayed the panels off the car for the first 3 coats, then sanded and 'HUNG' the doors and guards and then sprayed the last coats with these on. Are you guys painting Dale's or getting it done?
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