260Coupe

Ok Th engine run up last night for the first time with initial results being very disappointing, upon further investigation the cam that is supposed to be a 70/30 grind in more like a 67/68 which is little different from the standard 240Z A grind.

Guys Whilst my engine is out (for the engine bay refresh) we will be running it up on the engine dyno tonight to experiment with exhaust headers, the aim is to compare the HM headers with those supplied by Stewart Wilkins Motor Sport and experiment with shortening the secondaries. The Datrally engine dyno (now Power Play) is very accurate and provides measurements in BHP (actual fly wheel HP) so it will be intersting to compare the Brake HP to the rear wheel hp figures from the chassis dyno........and see what sort of losses there are thru the drive train (rumour has it around 25-30%). Alan

Herrod where are you getting you Short Shift kit from ?

Yep mine is coming from All Zed but probably won't be able to get it to Rankins til late next week , Paul is the man running the show, he won't dick you around and does a great job.....$150- 200 was around the figure he said to me dependant upon how much prep was required (time is money).....he works on a T & M basis . They will also ensure it is painted in Flexaid first to help prevent cracking Alan

An oxymoron to be sure For a good quality paint job try Rankins Restorations in Bayswater 9729 0622

That car in Sydney is a 1600 low screen that has had an H20 (Urvan) engine transplant Sports 2000's (power by the U20 engine) go for $7-$10k for a "good starting point" to $15 to $20k for a good clean example. Restoration is very costly as panels are near impossible to find (it took me 3 years to find a bonnet and guards and $2500) ........U20 parts are expensive and getting scarce (eg- water pumps over $400, timing gear $400+). When rebuilt correctly they are a hoot to drive with 100+ rwkw from a stock U20engine. Common engine transplants are H20 Urvan engines (similar block to U20) but lack the power I know of a couple for sale so PM me if you are interested, I also know of a rolling shell for sale and can put you onto the Australian Roadster Guru who knows all there is to know about them cheers Alan

Nice to see another cream interior !! Grab some K & H Vinyl spray for that tranny tunnel vinyl, they do a Biege which is almost a perfect match............it will look like new

Widebody 240Z for Wide Body Septics ...........I know the folks in the US have a weight problem but it looks like their "Zee Cars" need to be fat just to accomodate them Baahaaahaaa.......I crack myself up ...........No offence to any of our US members intended of course

Yes he does work there however he does not run Koni's in his 240z.........he uses re-valved wet legs . He did a talk at an NDSOC meeting late last year (bugger his name escapes me right now) and I'm sure he said they no longer make a Koni to fit the 240 ??

Ahahha............I used to race under 2b regs where you had to retain the same family of engine and cylinder head (as all the other Zeds did back in the early 90's).....I did not think of 2a.....I guess the engine is open to anything in 2a???

Paint Code is 302 leaf green...........it looks somewhat brighter in two pack from the original paint which I think was acrylic........I remember the original clear coat peeling off the roof like cellophane when I first bought the car 20 years back

Ash I know of a guy looking for a Zed race car............what class is it eligible to run in. can you still run in Marque Sports with an RB ??

Ade I had the Zed in their shop two years ago for a bare metal restoration, they specialize in Alfas so they know how to fix rust properly ! My Zed had the rust in the usual spots, both sills, rear hatch, front guards etc and they did an excellent job and the final finish was excellent.......hence why I took the car back to them to do the engine bay. They have resto'd a couple of Zeds now and a number of Datsun roadsters so they are familiar with the product (they say Zeds are much easier to repair then Alpha's) Yes I would certainly recommend Rankins.......give Paul a call on 9729 0622 cheers Alan

Guys My Zed come back from Rankins Restorations in Bayswater after undergoing an engine bay refresh, some rust was cut out of the lower radiator cross member and surface rust treated under the brake master. A superb job and for very reasonable $$$ considering the fiddly work. The battery tray was unpicked and sand blasted and the surface rust removed and treated before a repaint. Whilst the car was in the shop I have rubbed back all the brake lines, polished, clear coated and rezinced all the plated parts, stripped and repainted the brake booster and retaped the wiring loom......so all under bonnet stuff should be like new. Reassembly commences shortly

Allzed in Sydney have airdams coming in this week at $395. or Len Brennan was selling BRE style "spooks" ....not sure if he still has stock give him a call 0417 500965 This is his fitted to my old 240 race car

Hi Guys I have just ordered one of these spoilers from Warren at Allzed..........i assume they are the urathane air dam that have some give in them (flexible as opposed the rock solid fibre glass spoliers that can bend guards if you clip a curb) Also how is the fitment.......do they require much work to fit ?? cheers Alan

hehehehe........My Lubricant of choice..........to promote ease of assembly, reduce stress and provide post assembly smoothness............ and full bodied flavour.........an icy cold Carlton Draft

Callum I had the same problem with a Nissan works manifold from memory # 6 intake had a vacuum fitting and # 2 had the flat spot cast on to allow for another fitting o be drilled and tapped.........the current manifold is a Cannon . I found multiple hard stops would deplete the vacuum chamber and the pedal would drop 2" in height.........so I went to a manifold with a ballance tube linking all cylinders. You could try a Redline manifold as they have four flat spots for tapping vacuum off from which spreads the vacuum load Alan

Callum...........you are spot on I had the same issue until I swapped out the manifold for one with a balance pipe between all intakes Is your booster still a standard 240/260Z ? I would suggest you either find a manifold that has a balance pipe between all intake manifolds or you can tap of each intake manifold using T pieces . See pic of "Cannon" manifold with balance pipe Alan

Rev If it was clutch related I would suggest that you would have the same problem in all gears. It sounds like it is the 1st gear selector fork that may have sheared a roll pin causing the release fork to travel too far (or not at all as it will slide on the shift rod). I had a similar problem with first gear years ago in my Stanza SSS (with the option 1 shift pattern box), on dissassembly I found the nut holding on the main cluster had come lose causing the intire main cluster to float around. Either way it sounds like removal and refresh is required Here is my box I refreshed the other day with new bearing kit, seals, two new synchros rings and new synchro sleeves (prior to reinstalling the shift forks) BTW A keen eye my be able to spot the "lubricant in a can" used to assist with assembly Alan

Flares were not homologated here in Oz for any "production" style racing such as Group Sc Historics etc (along with triple mikunis, oil coolers or electronic ignition) . As Lurch has suggested you will have to check the sup regs for the events and the CAMS manual

G'day Colin thanks for the call last night................I have PM'd you with some more info cheers Alan

Not required unless you plan to race (IMHO) I raced an Group Sc spec 240Z for a few years with no oil cooler (not permitted under Sc rules) with no problems.........use a good quality race oil. According to the L series engine gurus......street cars can have the problem of the oil not getting hot enough (particularly in winter) which can be detrimental to the engine long term. ........unless you want the "go fast" look of an oil cooler .....If so call Stuart Wilkins Motor Sport for the filter adaptor plate, hose and oil radiator . http://www.swmotorsport.com/index.html?lmd=39067.093299

Agree.......I'm not into the "rice rocket" look either.......I prefer the factory look all the way Yes freight from the US can be a bit exy............ my $8 air box cost $43 us to ship .........I think it cost me around $83 Aussie dollars in total so not so bad............And the best thing is it all looks factory fitted. If you can't find any on US ebay bay get onto the guys are Arizona Z car or the Z connection.....they offered to buy and ship for a small fee on top of the buy price. cheers Alan

Guys I am very scepital over pod filter "performance" enhancements over original induction sytems, I dyno'd my Zed with the 280Z filter housing installed and found no loss at peak power over no filter at all and more power than a pod filter with much less noise........not sure how a 280ZX filter housing would perform . Our dyno results also prove that 240z airbox works better than pod filters (so put that 240Z air box back on!) and that most Nissan filter housings are so well designed that they out perform the after market stuff..............IMHO car manufacturers do not spend millions of $$ on developement for nothing. You can find 280Z filter housings on US ebay for as little as $8.00usd (yes that's what I paid for mine) and filters are available through your local Nissan dealer (same as R31 Skyline and early Maxima) In summary............ loud induction noise does not = more HP Here is a pic of the 280Z filter housing whilst we were dyno testing Alan