260Coupe

Vented bonnets were available new from Nissan at around $720 a few months back, maybe give Trev at Moorabbin Nissan a call

Agree ...........looking at the selling prices of late , $7-8k will buy you a project that is rusty and in need of much work. good "clean" 260 two seater that does not require major work will see you hand over $15k + This could be a good buy if it is as good as it sounds http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/private/details.aspx?R=7875643&__sid=11EF883748F5&__Qpb=true&Cr=2&__Ns=pCar_RankSort_Int32%7c1%7c%7cpCar_PriceSort_Decimal%7c1%7c%7cpCar_Make_String%7c0%7c%7cpCar_Model_String%7c0&keywords=&__N=1216%201246%201247%201252%201282%204294966615%204294966410&seot=1&tsrc=allcarhome&__Nne=15&trecs=3&silo=1011

I beg to differ.........I have four of these fans fitted to my zed and the first two installed have worked flawlessly for the past three years (behind the radiator). The second pair installed a year ago for the aircon condensor and these have also performed without failure. Yes I agree that Davies Craig are excellent however they draw massive current and they are not that much more efficient than the "cheap n cheerful" I have a DC 14" fan in my race car (Sports 2000 Roadster) and whilst it works well, at $240 it was far more expensive , sucks 15-20 amps and no better than the fans on ebay. I suppose in the end it is you choice

Steve Leave the thermosat in ........removing it will only mask the problem and create others. My Zed ran at the same temp (as per your third figure) around 90 + deg on the gauge until I fitted the thermo fans in front of the condensor. Once I fitted the thermo fans the problem was solved , temp runs at a constant 82 deg even when stuck in traffic on the hottest days.

Steve Give the radiator a good clean with radiator flush to de-scale and then flush out with a high pressure hose. I refitted the aircon to my Zed and installed 2 x 9" thermo fans in front of the condensor and triggered the relay off the compressor actuator wire. Turn on the aircon and the two fans start up and run continuously. Even on a day of 42 deg the temp never gets over half way. I also have 2 x 12" fans behind the radiator which are for normal cooling but find they only start up after sitting idling for some time You can get these fans off ebay (yep they are Chinese but are great for the price) they work really well and only draw around 4 amps so you won't be overloading the electrics. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/9-INCH-THERMO-FAN-BRAND-NEW_W0QQitemZ310193910905QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Car_Parts_Accessories?hash=item4838ff7479

They look like brass Warner coupling sleeves for a 280zx box, they will not suit a 240/260 box which uses Porsche type coupling sleeves (steel).

I had my A/C reconnected last year for the road trip to the QLD Nats, whilst it is better than nothing at all I have found that the new R34a gas is not nearly as cold as the old old R12 refrigerant 9due to the design of the old system apparently. Cost to reco a 280zx compressor was $400 (junked the 260 compressor due to massive weight ) , plus another $800 to leak test, regass and some custom plumbing to suit the new dryer canister and fill valves etc. Air temp on a modern car is around 6 deg, mine is at around 9-10 deg so it struggled on the 40 deg heat. I need to upgrade the heater fan to push more air out of the vents.

Agree..........clapped out 280's look like dogs but well maintained clean examples look great. I was actually looking for a 280 but needed to spend $10+k to find something reasonable and $12K + for a good one so the Z31 was the next best choice and half the price. Certainly a future "classic of the Genre"

Ahh but I beg to differ, there are a few Z31's around worth picking up! I just bought a one owner '86 Z31 Turbo (and a rare manual at that ) with only 135000 km on the clock (with history) for $6k........never had a hit, no rust and totally unmolested. One of the few yet to catch fire and not hotted up by the "Welcome Overseas GuestS" (no offence intended) The Z31 is certainly no "sports" car in the same league as a 240......but a great "fat mans" tourer all the same. Styling is very polorizing (yes you either like them or you hate them, I was never a big fan until I drove a few) as the ride is very boulevarde but with electric everything, snooze control,air, power steer and reasonable handling and performance (155kw for a 1400kg car).......$6k was great value.....me thinks anyway . If it appreciates in value as the 280's have done then all the better .........if not then so be it ....a nice piece of 80's nostalga

My old 240z SC logbooked race car was originally fitted with an L24e donk (old Skyline donk) with the smaller conrod journals, the crank broke at number six after a big rev. This could have been exascerbated by a loose harmonic balancer, lesson learned I went back to a 240z L24 block and crank (bigger dia journals) for the next engine build.........this went on to turn 135 rwkw at 7000rpm on triple 44 Mikunis, still going strong after 6 years. FYI Lou Mondello (Roadster Guru) is now offset grinding U20 and H20 cranks and installing Mitsubishi Evo rods, the strokers are now producing around 120 rwkw from 2.2 litres..........not sure about the longevity as done of these engines have seen the race track as yet . Alan

That's a stock L26 emmision spec cam

Go to Stewart Wilkins and get a set of standard flat tops and then have them fly cut to allow for the valve clearance. You will have to measure the lift and duration of the valves to calculate the depth.....My L26 with flatties had approz 2.3mm fly cuts from memory. If you get really stuck then I have aset of Genuine Standard L24 pistons BNIB I may be willing to sell.....PM me if you want

I think where Simon is going as that an A grind is the best starting point for a regrind as it has the largest base circle dia and highest lift and can be reground in stages. Rather than install a 72 deg straight up and find that you have lost all you low down mumbo and you need to rev it beyond 500 all the time to get any performance. Simon............what are you aiming for? something that is tractable around town or a flat out race cam?

Simon If you have an L28 C grind the specs are identicle to the 240 A grind so no difference. The A/C has better duration than the F grind that was also installed in the L28e's...............check which cam you already have. Lou's recommendation was obviously based assuming you had an F ...and on testing cams in my engine on the engine dyno......not anecdotal evidence..........the stock 240 A grind was found to be superior to the stock C and F grind. (more duration and intake lift) The stock A grind has huge torgue below 4500 and makes peak power at only 5500 so it is ideal for road use as the power is always there ......not so great for track as it drops off quickly after 5500-5800 BTW I got my spare A grind from Lindsay at the Z Shop.............he may be worth a try ? I have since reground it to a 70 deg Roadster profile which I am yet to test...this should move peak power to around 6200 Alan

Thanks Simon Mine is 302 metalic Leaf Green, very rare in a two seater I have only seen one other 2str in 302 and that was a '75 model.

Not sure..........I did try and contact Gavin some time back but did not get a response.........and then I came across the GTB airbox which is factory tested and really works (and I tested it on the engine dyno as well) We proved that it helps and doesn't hinder performance.(as some airboxs do) The GTB air box is flowed and tapered to enhance air flow........not sure how well the others actually work Steve Newing also had an airbox he was working on some time back.

The airbox is the rarest part of the whole setup.......it is off a '66 Prince Skyline GTB which had triples fitted as standard. It need some minor modifaction as the Prince carbs are stargard in height so there was some welding and realignment of holes to get it to fit. These are very hard to find and I came across the last in existance (or so it seems as we have tried to find more) The airbox boost mid range power, looses no power at top end and is quiet and EPA friendly as I have the crankcase and rocket vented to it reburning the gases. The front filter housing is from a US spec 280z (S30 260z fitted with the fuel injected L28 ).........bolts straight into the existing mounting holes.

Simon Go the triples, when set up properly they will feel just like injection. If you are coming to the NDSOC Xmas party then you can have a drive of my Zed and see for yourself..........throttle response is instant and as smooth as silk ............(Lou knows his stuff) Alan

Apologies John, I was under the impression that you could not find original bumber strips and that was why you were suggesting an alternative..........no malice intended

Or you could just buy the original from Nissan or All Zed parts in Sydney (Warren can get them from Japan)

Without trying to create a sh*tstorm of controversy The other obvious option open to any body wanting to display their Zed is to join the NDSOC on the day ......... ........ you will then be eligible for trophies and be covered under the club's PLI and have membership until Dec 2010.

The immediate noticable difference between triples (Mikunis in my case) and Hitachi SUs is the throttle response.........SUs work on vacuum alone so you cannot mash you foot to the floor and expect things to happen. Triples not only provide far more fuel/air (six throttle bodies as opposed to two) but as they have accelerator pumps squirting fuel into the inlet manifold, response is (or should be if set up correctly) instantaneous. The difference all round is very noticable and power difference in my engine is around 15-20 rwkw In short .........go triples........and go the new OEM triples available from Les Collins or through Stuart Wilkins in Sydney.......they stay in tune and well priced.(from what I have heard from the blokes in the know)

As the other have suggested 200 RWHP (152rw kw) is very optomistic for an L26 that is still streetable. Shaving heads is fraught with danger, risking detonation at high rpm etc ...just go 240z flat tops and you will have plenty enough mumbo for road use Take a look at my rebuild, this resulted in around 125 rwkw / 165 rwhp and is very tractable and nice to drive . http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,2415.0.html

Rev Send an email throught to social@ndsoc.com.au with the details of the event and we will get an email out to the members. Unfortunately this week also clashes with our Marque Sports GT Rally (weekend nav rally to Warrnambool) and the Sandown Historics. Also the Roadster club is looking for some Zeds to join their display at the Sandown Historics (free entry ticket included) Alan

Warren at All Zed in Sydney usually stocks them BNIB(for a 2 seater anyway)