PZG302

Not sure, the boss may have me already booked, or I'll be at QR for the Prod Sports racing on that weekend.

A quick tip for those heading up to Toowoomba, the highway is a nightmare with all the delays and road works. The guys at LVRC where I am wiorking that do the Toowoomba Gatton commute now use Flagstone Creek Road to bypass the highway, And it looks to be a great drive up the hill to boot.

Or if you can drop back to a R180, 4.8 and 4.9 diffs are still reasonably easy to find as open diffs.

And waiting for the courier to pick them up and take them south......

I can, that looks sensational. Try to find another one, let alone one in that timewarp condition. I am biased though, I had one as my first car, in baby poo brown, offocially known as Kalahari Tan, with red racing stripe.

I still think that is optimistic, the air stops you like a brick. I'd like to see a road 260 get to an actual 240km/h not indicated. My 260 would do an indicated off the clock quite easily, but actual speed was about 200, and fecking scary. My old 240 was good for a genuine 215 at Lakeside, 220 at QR on clubman circuit and a maximum top speed of 230km/h down conrod at a speed weekend at Bathurst in the late '90's with 200rwhp and a 4.1 diff. I don't care what anybody says, unless you have a shit load more power and proper aero, not ebay ricer aero you won't get a zed doing much over 250 down a very long mineshaft.

I have a L28 suitable for rebuild, but am up in Brisvegas......

About 210 will be flat out for a standard car. Aerodynamics will kill top speed as the car doesn't have the power to push through the air.

mmm, might check the dealer at Gatton on Tuesday, they would be a great upgrade for the hairdresser car, and I won't tell them either......

Who wants an awesome set of great and rare as rocking horse poo 3 piece wheels made especially for the 240 and 260Z? These are taking up room in the garage and would be better served on someone else's car. I am getting sick of tripping over wheels, I think I am up to 5 sets of wheels that are laying around the garage at the moment for two cars that can use them. The wheels are a 3 piece wheel made by Oz Wheels in Sydney. They are based on a 15" BBS copy centre and 18" rims specifically made to suit the centres, only size available at the time of manufacture. PCD is 4x114.3, standard Datsun/Tojo/Bistishiverti and so on 4 stud fitment of the 70's and 80's. These wheels were custom made for my old 240Z race car to use the then brand new and huge 18" tyres as used by the super tourers, in fact a few yokohamas found there way onto these rims between Frank Gardner using them and Mr Yokohama destroying the tyres back in Japan, helps to know the Yoki Motorsport distributor at the time These wheels will fit most brake conversions used on a Zed, unless you are a mad bugger from Tassie who has HUUGE brakes 'cause he has a stonking V8 under the bonnet.....But he got my other wheels off the race car so is still reasonably happy..... The wheels will also give you a fully sic hella flush fitment, if that's what you like, depending on the tyres used you may or may not need to pull the front guards. I used Porsche Cup slicks, 240/640/18 tyres or 235/630/18 super tourer tyres with a slight guard pump on the front and a small flare on the back, but I also dropped the ride height a fair bit on the race car. For a road car they fit fine with a 235/35/18 or 235/40/18 tyre and a not stupid low ride height. The wheels will have to be pulled apart and re siliconed as one rim leaks air. They will also need a polish to come up a treat. What's the price for these one of a kind wheels that you will not find anywhere else you ask? Well I'm glad you did. As is the wheels can be yours for the amazingly cheap sum of $800. If you want me to reseal them and give them a polish, then the price goes up to $1,200. If you are local to Brisbane you are more than welcome to come and try them on your car. I am quite willing to pack and drop off to a depot for delivery by courier at your cost if you are interstate. If they don't sell I'll keep them and look at redrilling them to suit the fully sic and hectic ghetto racing S14 Bro...... Pics attached, and if anyone is interested, just flick me a PM and we'll go from there. Pictures show the rims as are now and a good idea of the fitment on a fairly low Z.

Not trying to be a pain in the arse so you have to take a step back, but what motorsport are you looking at doing? If it's just sprints and regularity then ignore the next paragraph, if you are looking at door to door, then sorry.... For door to door racing, unless the windows are tinted as the car is delivered from the factory, then all windows must be clear glass or suitable acrylic/lexcen\plexiglass. If you and Whittie are looking at door to door it would well be worth getting the CAMS manual off the web and look at the general requirements for automobiles, from memory appendicies H through to about N. Hope this doesn't have you cursing me and throwing things......

How do you get more torque out of a spring Richard??? Unless your running torsion bars I would assume you mean lb/in for your new springs. Be careful on how much you do go up in spring rate, and also look at the dampers, are they too soft to control the spring, or too hard for the spring, and also don't forget the front/rear balance of the spring rates in the car.

I've a got a long L28 suitable for rebuild as well as a set of 133mm rods if you are looking at stroker or better stroke/rod ratio as well as a spare n42 head suitable for rebuild, and some odds and ends for the L28 in the garage.

I got hit by some numpty in a Camry when I had my zg fairlane. Rear bar pushed into quarter, springs out of alignment, taillights and the plastic trim between them, basically made of unobtanium at the time. I was lucky I was with shannons, rang them, let them know aami had left a message was told not to reply or talk to them at all as that was their job. As I was relatively new to Brisbane they also sorted a shop for me local to go to and even went so far as sending the rearbar to sSydney for repairs and rechroming as one is as good condition could not be found. The also paid for the time to find a set rear lights and the trim between them. I was very happy with their service and have had cars insured with them since the early 90's. I would recommend to anyone here to vet their cars insured by a specialist and actually lol at what the policy provides you. Price should be one of the last things taken into consideration when selecting a good policy. I know this doesn't help Scooter, but it may save someone else a lot of grief.

Was that her company's assessor? If so tell him to jamb that offer where the sun don't shine with a pineapple dipped in chilli. If have your own insurer then do everything through them, or get quote from restoration shop and fire that back to them. It also might be worth going and have a chat to a friendly lawyer, might be time to spend a little to get a lot.....

Unfortunately Richard's car doesn't comply with 2B rules because of the vg motor. To comply an L series engine would have to go back into the car. And yes, with the gt cars competing the 130% rules is used and to qualify you need to be under 2 minutes unless you get special dispensation, and being a p player newbie doesn't count, you would have to prove that you and your car regularly go round well within the 130% time limit.

re the HANS devices, there is moves afoot to get a group buy going through Tetley for the categories that race at QR tracks and the MX5 forum is also looking at puttinng somethong together, so will get one when these are finalised. The MX weighs in at around 980-1000kg, so about 50kg heavier. I know how to loose about 6 seconds a lap, but it means about a $12k investment in motor and ecu, which the haidresser car is not destined for. The MX5 track days are for shits and giggles, but I am only a second off the class leader, so the competetive streak is cominng out, so am starting to play with the suspension a little now as brakes are sorted and no more motor work to be done. I may look at fittinng up a race seat and harness to get that extra time as well as at the moment I am only using the standard seat and belt which means I am slidinng around all over the shop and I know that's costinng me time as well as buggering up my shoulder goingthrough turns 1 and 2 at QR. The S14 should come in at about 1050kg and around 300-350hp with the restictions on what I can do with the motor. I will be dissapointed if I am not doing 56's once it is sorted, just need to get the collection of fun tickets stacked up hhigh enough.

Richard, My Zed ran out of puff at about 210 in 4th at 6800 or so and i changed up to 5th at the gantry for the run through the kink and down to the Karasel. Absolute flat out speed would be around 220km/h unless I was at Bathurst where the run down Conrod would give the car a chance to wind out to about 6500 in 5th which would be calculated at about 230-240 depending on final revs achieved. Passing others just after the bus stop at about 180 or so is interesting, need a lot of trust there. But the old dunger was good for 61's in door to door racing around there so not too bad.

In queensland you may be able to register a written off car, but best to talk to TMR about it as I believe that this mybe changing in the near future.

They probably already are...... Interesting to note the speed difference between the old Zed and the hairdresser car, in the Zed I was going under the gantry at a calculated 210km/h, in the MX5 the speed is an indicated 160km/h, which from my GPS is about spot on. Braking points into the karasel are the same, as are the braking oints into hungry. I could go a little deeper under brakes in the MX, but I need to keep the right foot off the middle pedal for a little longer, the brain goes in ppreservation mode a little too early around lakeside in that car. The 6-7 second longer lap time doesn't feel much slower than the Zed, which is suprising, I am still jst as busy, so shows how a well set up competition car is easy to drive quick compared to a well set up road car. I would say the main difference is the better seat and harness in the race car so you don't have to brace yourself like in the road car.

Took the haidresser car out to Lakeside on Monday for the MX5 club track day. I ended up going round in a 68.28, so very happy with that out of a near standard 1600, and still need to be braver under brakes. If I chase the right person I should be able to get into a low 67 later in the year. I ended up 4th in class, missing the top three by 0.2 of a second and around a second off winning the class, hence need to chase the right bloke, ie the class leader.

Scoota, tell her insurance company to piss off, you want it repaired. Get your quotes and then send her a letter of demand to fix, which she can then pass onto her insurance. If you are with a decent specialist insurer go through them, if you had no cover, then be prepared to fight. Mainstream companies will do the cheapest possible thing to get out of paying, ie write the car off. If you can only get a pay out then make sure you retain the wreck. Most insurance companies will pay you and then take the car as it is deemed that they own it and then they auction it off to recover some costs. I do really hope you are insured with a good company, even if its for 3rd party fire and theft, they might fight the good fight for you. Good luck with it all.

If you are getting a Jim Berry clutch, just go with what he recommmends. If Jim says you don't need anything fancy, then you don't need anything fancy. I just one put into the S14 to do daily duties until the drivetrain is donated to the race car and it shuld should survive that pretty well.

C'mom Lurch, ease up we all know how old and frail dat2kman is, so yes it would be pissible, and most likely all down the front of his shorts.....

Nah, not even the flat brimmed boys like em, they seem to be weaker than the S14 5 speeds, and everyone wants the RB25/Z32 box for their fully sick sivias.