PZG302

Yeah , no Richard, sorry but as good as lap dashes and sprints are, they aren't racing and never will be. The difference between sprints and racing is chalk and cheese, sprints all about times, racing all about position. Racecraft isn't learnt in sprints, driving close together is what is learnt in sprints. Racecraft is about learning, very quickly, where best to put your car on the track to pass or stop being passed, where to stick your nose down the inside, or where to hang back and wait for the next corner where you are better positioned to pass, how to psyche out your opponent on the track, or to trick them into the slow line, or defend your position within the rules. Guaranteed if you put a "racer" in a sprint event and they "race" everyone gets all butt hurt about the racer taking their line, or dive bombing them, which would be expected in racing. How many times have come on here and other forums whinging about traffic ruining your fast lap? If you can't cope with that, then you certainly won't cope with racing. Sorry Richard, until you show us what you can do in a proper race, and there are plenty of opportunities to do this at QR, either Prodsports, or outlaws for your barge, then you are just another gunna internet hero who thinks about throwing it all away with the tiniest of wobbles through a corner.

I know it's not a Zed, but for what Nissan had available on the market in 1997, this is as close to one you could get out here, even if it would have been a 2+2. The car is located in Brisbane and advertised at $8,900. This is one the cheapest series 2 S14's in Brisbane at the moment and is an Australian delivered car with service history. To kick start the build of the other S14 for Prodsports I need my 1997 200SX sold so I can pay for Lurch to come north for a while and build me a cage, plus buy some other goodies, like MCA suspension. The original plan was to use it as a commuter until I got myself on my feet and a new work ute, which I now have, and then wreck it to use the bits on the other shell. I have picked up most of the bits I need for the other shell, cross members, sub frames and gearbox and this car is too good to wreck, so here it is for sale. Link to the carsales ad, http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Nissan-200SX-1997/SSE-AD-2221281/?Cr=0&sdmvc=1 For those too lazy to click on the link: 1997 manual in red standard mechanically with rebuilt turbo in late 2011 17x7.5" wheels with achilles sports tyres fitted in feb, plus 4 wheel alignment at the same time new heavy duty Jim Berry clutch fitted in feb, will probably outlast the car. Pioneer bluetooth ipod headunit with front speakers replaced in standard door mounts Rego until the end of October It hasn't been tracked, raced, drifted, or made fully sick and hectic. The paint isn't perfect with some chips on the front bar and a couple of scuffs on the rear bar. Car goes well and would make a good base to turn into something fully sick and hectic, or a track car. Pic below is from when I first got the car.

If you haven't yet, bleed the front brakes, odds on this is your problem because of the weeping block letting air into the system. It doesn't take much. Any time you do something to the brakes check the obvious first. Make sure everything is tight and doesn't leak. Then bleed all the brakes. And if you still have problems then you look for other faults.

First lap of a 10 lap race you don't need to be taking unnecessary risks in the first corner, tyres still cold, brakes not fully warm yet, very high risk for low reward and on Phillip Island, not the place to be sticking your nose in. If it was into turn one at Winton or into the Karasel, different matter, then I would have a go at shot down the inside, but no need to bash panels like the taxis do, whilst some have dollars the majority of racers are on a shoe string budget, hence me taking so long to build my car. Racecraft takes a while to learn, as does knowing the opposition and also being able to trust the other drivers not to take you out. I used to race against a guy who drove a MG Midget back in NSW. In 3 seasons of racing we only touched once, and most races we were no more than a couple of car lengths apart, the track commentators used to talk a lot about us with the racing we could put on. We got to know our driving styles, strengths and weaknesses pretty well and knew where to have a go and where to sit back so as not to upset each others cars which could get expensive at places like Amaroo, which had less run off than Lakeside, plus a solid rock wall you approached head on at about 140-150km/h with a right hand 90 degree turn at the appropriately named stop go. If you had a brake fail it hurt....

No pass at turn 1 because high risk low reward as you are then on the outside and in the shit for turn 2. gear crunch at 1:08, as Jason said, standard rooted synchros, the engine copped a fair buzz on the down shift. Only easy long term fix is be a little slower on down changes into 2nd, new synchros will be stuffed in a few events. Open door at Honda - better line through the corner to be on left side at approach, but Porker had better brakes and could run down the right hand side, also good etiquette when in a corner that far not to close the door, this wasn't super taxis, and give each other room. Power being equal, Jason would have been on the better side of the track for the run up to hayshed. So when are we seeing the luxo barge playing at QR with prod sports. There is a one hour enduro coming up if you want to see how really good you are.....

Before you pay the moneys take the time to bleed the brakes again. If air was getting in the system through the distribution block then good chance this is the problem. The front brakes need to move a heap more fluid volume than the rears, and it doesn't take much of an air gap to move the pedal a long way and have it at the floor. Easiest way to bleed all brakes if you have the time and can get the car up in the air on stands is the good old gravity bleed. Attach plastic hose over all teh bleed nipples, crack all so that they can now flow, take the top off the reservoir, and keep an eye on it over half an hour or so, also checking the fluid coming out of the brakes. You may need to tap the end of the tube on each nipple to get a suction effect going to get the fluid flowing out. This way doesn't give you dramas with pumping the pedal with not enough fluid in the system and gets all the air out of the system, and also gives you time to enjoy a beer or two.

A few of the guys on the MX5 forums are using these and rating them pretty highly. Weight is only a 100kg or so different for road cars so should be a good thing on a Zed.

Standard Zed gearbox, I thought 2nd gear synchros were all buggered before they left the factory. Easiest fix, big rev on the downshift and change gears slowly.....

Well if you don't wear the numbers 1 to 5 then you have no place in the ruck and should be spat out the back at high speed....... I played 2nd row for a few years of senior rugby before my knees gave up and I had to retire in my mid 20's. Another option, which has been used in a few car types is to use the automatic type brake pedal, being bigger may close the gap between pedals that you are after.

Well have a play at qr with prodsports. To get more involved they are lossening the requirements for compliance at qr and Lakeside so people can have a run to see what all the fuss of door to door racing is about. Only other requirement is the car is an eligible prod sports, which the luxobarge is, and the usual qr racing requirements.

That's the easiest way with a zed set up, using the ball of the foot on the brake and a quick roll of the outside of the foot on the throttle to blip the throttle. I also find that I double declutch on downshifts due to learining to drive in dungas with buggered synchros. Also learnt to drive hiluxes without using the clutch except when moving off, though did once drive a g60 patrol from south of nowra to the blue mountains with no clutch slave cylinder. Thankfully the starter motor coped in 2nd at traffic lights.

About bloody time.... Good to see, will be a big day when you fire it up Adam, though 4 years isn't too bad, my chugger is up to 13 years and counting.

Feck!!!! I thought my effort was good........

As per Jason's original post on this, the Chev spun on his own oil, clipped the Porsche which hit Jason and then he bounced back into the Chev and then tried some acrobatics, basically a nasty incident that luckily everyone walked away from. But yeah, want to go racing, be prepared to have your car end up a steaming pile of scrap on the side of the track. I've had this happen twice now through no fault of my own. First was my Turner Sports 1300, broke a suspension link in the front left at about 200km/h going up Bitupave hill at Amaroo, one written off car, got $12 scrap for the body, salvaged some other bits and pieces and gave the chassis away to see it resurrected about five years later it was that bent and broken. Second one was helped into the fence at Lakeside, no more Zed, but I could quote one of the coolest movie lines ever, "Zeds dead baby, Zeds dead"

That wasn't tyre smoke that was the power smoke getting out of the motor, a bit like when the smoke get out of electrics. It was dumping a fair bit of oil all around the track.

yep, pinch of piss Richard, now I am a professional advanced driving instructor as well do you want some lessons? ;D In all seriousness yes, the S30 standard set up is easy to blip on the downchange whilst double depressing the clutch pedal. The only car I have had problems with was the Astra convertible with a fly by wire throttle. You gave it a blip and nothing happened because the computer decided it didn't want to rev with the car in neutral on the downchange. The hairdresser car is even easier and the S14 is easy as well. Even the Chugger pedals are fine, just gotta be a bit flexible on how you your foot works the pedals.

As Jason said, the standard S30 pedal layout works well for heel and toeing, both for race and road, well the way I do it anyway, using the ball of my foot on the brake pedal and the outside edge of my foot near the heel for the accelerator pedal with my size 10 feet.

I've got a 3 piece rear spoiler, not sure if it's what you are after though. It is a series 1 RX7 Group C bird bath. Would need a little work to fit, but it does look good on a Zed, and it works going by the amount of crap that used to get stuck onto the rear of the car going around the track at Eastern Creek, and the fact that turn 1 was flat with the bird bath, but a lot slower with only the standard type spoiler.

If they are in Australia what about an Australian car? Plenty of old valiants that can be had for cheap, a little bit of a tidy up and they can be onsold for reasonable profit.

There's a couple of 120Y coupes down in Sydney that are a bit quicker than yours Jason, on tarmac anyway. Helps they have 13B chook cookers in them and big slick tyres most of the time.

No, why do you think he is still on his way up........

I've got a N42 that's begging for some work to be done to it, and will be as good, if not better than a P90 for 90% of applications. $150 for the bare head with cam towers, a lumpy stick and all the sundry bits that go with a head taking up room in the garage.

Mmmm, group C and A routers, group Q and R sports and racing that are some of the quickest cars in the country, plus the pretend categories is a bit gay? What parallel universe have I landed in.........

No war, just pointing out that a meeting with some of the same cars and a whole heap more is on the weekend before as well. I have no problems with qr and quite happily take advantage of the opportunities they give me to run the hairdresser car at a very good price through the mx5 club. For example, my next track day will cost $125 for a full day at Lakeside. The only thing that gets hard to take is the cost to watch a day's racing that is at an amateur level and the money is already made from the entry fees.

Yeah, but the entry fee at the HRCC meeting to see proper old race cars and quality racing is worth the dollars, and not as much as other tracks. The $30 a head for a one day meeting at Lakeside with 5 lap sprint races, for most spectators, not so good value in comparison. Non issue for me for entry costs as I can always get a free pass for whatever I want to see somehow. I can't remember the last time I paid to go to a race meeting......Unless you count entry fees