Toecutter

I got a set for the front from a local bearing shop just near Keys Rd in Moorabin. Try Repco or Bursons. I'm sure you can get them quite easily. To check em jack the car up at the end the noise is coming from you should be able to feel a bit of side to side movement when you grab the wheel/tyre and feel for play if you know what I mean!?

Cool looking forward to seeing them on the car!

Ah WORKS wheels like these!

Yer they'll work easy. Obviously PCD has to be right. http://www.viczcar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=788 Have you got a pic of the wheels that your getting? Cheers Sulio

Next time you take your brothers SLR out near night time see if you can borrow a tri-pod and set it up manually and then play with the exposure ie shutter speed and appature. You'll be amazed at what you can achieve. Just be wary of where the light is coming from and if you have a second camera you can use it to get really good effect as fill in flash on other areas of the car during long shutter speeds ie 1 to 2 seconds.

I noticed one of the pics in your gallery was a bit dark being a little bored I thought I'd have a play with it.

Good work mate! I dropped in to your place a few weeks ago after a visit to my folks but your dad said I'd just missed you, noticed the 260 sitting at the back in the garage. Did'nt you have someone looking at it? Have you decided on the wheels your gonna go for?

Good. It'll be interesting to follow the progress! You would want it ready for the Nationals hey!!! Judging from the last BBQ alot of the members cars are off the road. Obviously alot of these cars are going to look pretty good when finished so I'm hanging for the day we can go for a cruise with various coloured shmiko Z's, especially now that Nigels car is off to QLD, that car is really nice and looked great in photos; a loss for us Victorians!

is the above pic your locking "button" thingo??? If so where did you get em looks good!

Ideally it would be a good to strip the whole thing down and do a thorough job with the paint however I understand Gavs rational on this one; especially when you have'nt the luxury of another car and have to rely on loaning family members cars and catching rides with friends. I had some rust spots on my car when I first bought it. I got it resprayed about 5 years ago. The job cost me $2500 in two pack red. I made sure all the windows were pulled out and installed new seals which did'nt cost too much. I spent quite a bit of time at the paint shop helping out just to be sure and I was having fun watching the progress. It's not a show quality job but when all cleaned up she looks fine. I don't think it would have made much difference to the level I enjoy my car if I had spent any more time or money in regards to a better paint job. If anything it allowed me to move on with the next thing seeing I still had plenty of cash and I was all charged up looking at the shiny red paint. Soon after paint it was a daily driver parked in the sun and rain pretty much every day for about 2.5 years. I have a couple of very small bubbles under the hatch which have now got fish oil on them. In addition to this I know someone who spent $8000.00 on his Z paint and garaged the car always, after some years a rust bubble still appeared under the hatch, these cars are a pain for rust and I have come to the conclusion they need routine body maintanence with the key being never letting the cancer get to far. I'll prolly spray the car again in another 3 to 5 years and do as Warren has done trying my hand at some body work. Gav, if you think your able to get the prep work done I reckon give it a go and get a pro to paint it. Only thing is your perp work in regards to rust might not be as thorough as Matts or Warrens and you'll just have to live with that. I don't think it's too much of a compromise although for some of the fellas here it is as they are looking for a certain level of perfection and I can completely understand that, it just depends on what you want to get out it all. I'm pretty sure your floor pans are'nt about to fall apart so it's not that far gone and in need of urgent structural attention hey!? You'll prolly be able to get someone to spray it for about $1000 if you do all the preperation. In a couple of years you might see a bubble somewhere and maybe in 5 or 6 years you might even think about a respray!? Sorry about the long response but my point is yes I agree you won't have to live with the car stripped down for the next 12 months or so. Good Luck! Sulio

Good work. I'm hangin for the day I've finished all the house reno's and I can think about getting another old Z to learn to do some body work on.

Just touch it up until you get the car sprayed. The way I see it your in need of respray on the bonnet and from our discussion on the phone tonite it sounds like you wanted to use your spare non-vented bonnet that also needs red paint. You also mentioned the doors need attention. It might be time to change directions and hook into some body work. Not sure it's the sort of thing you'd want to do in a shared garage at home if your gonna try it yourself though, alot of dust to deal with.

Thats interesting. Do you think Nissan would recognise those part numbers?

Can anybody with a 2+2 advise wether opening the rear quarter widows helps with exhaust fumes? just curious

People often ask about wheel options for Z's. You need to know 3 things to select your wheels/tyres; 1. PCD which is distance from center hole to center hole on the wheel stud holes. For the S30 it's 4 studs at 114.3mm. 2. Offset or back space which is explained in the diagrams above. The stock 240 runs ethier 0mm or +12mm from memory. Just keep in mind the higher the negative value the deeper the dish. For instance -20 gives you 20mm more dish than the same wheel with 0 offset. This would also mean that the wheel with the -20 offset would also sit 20mm closer to the wheel guards than the 0 offset when put on the same car. There is a limited amount of space between the stock guards and suspension. This space limits your wheel offset and size options. For instance alot of wheels on the market are designed for newer front wheel drive cars with a +35 offset. If mounted on a Z these wheels would rub on the suspension as they would sit too far in. One way around this is using a bolt on spacer that pushed the wheel out. These spacers can be made to order and bolt on to your existing hub. I've used them before and there is much discussion on the net about them. Installing aftermarket suspension like coil over gets you some more room as does installing flares but I won't go into that as there is much discussion on that in other areas on this forum. 3. Rolling diameter is based on the diameter of the stock tyres. Not sure what the 240's is but I think the tyres I'm running are about 620mm. To work it out just add the height of the tyre walls to the wheel size. Just remember a 225x50 tyre is 50% of 225mm so tyre wall height is 112.5mm. Apart from looking like crap getting the rolling diamter wrong can put your speedo out. For those that have been down this road and would like to comment on wheels/tyres you have found to fit on a Z car please add your comments and pics. To help others out please try and include info like offset and tyre size etc Years ago I came across a page on the net that had a comprehensive list and pics of stock wheels from other cars that bolt on to the stock Z car. If anybody has a link to this info please share! My contribution might not be helpful to many as I've got flares on my car but I'll try to kick start the thread with my set up. I bought 3 piece ROH Venturo wheels in 17 inch. 17x8.5 (-6 offset) for front and 17x9.5 (-19 offset) at the back. 5-6 weeks to be made. I think tyres are 225x45 front & 255x40 rears.

Good diagrams RUSSJZ-ZED. I'll start a new thread with those same diagrams and perhaps Gav can make it a sticky. We can have people contribute what wheels/tyres etc they are running as this seems to be a popular question for Z car owners.

Yer good idea. I think most know that 114.3mm is the stock S30 PCD which is measured from wheel stud to wheel stud basically. As far as offset anything from 0 to +15 with a 7 inch wide rim works fine. But when you go to an 8 inch wide rim and stock suspension I'm not sure as I know people here like Dave run 8" rim and just clears but the 15x7's I had on the car before took up all the room. So it might depend on tyre size and the lip on the rim, not sure!? Sulio Don't mean to hijack the thread but just quickly Evan have you made up your mind yet? I'm pretty eager to see what the 16's will look like on the Z!

I had the same problem when I first bought my car and installed early 240 SU's. I just kept playing around till I got them right. Sorry I can't help you out but that was about 5 years ago and I have'nt touched em since. They run fine.

If you want to buy these wheels you can order the spacers from a lot of Co's. I bought a set some time ago from a US Co. that charged about AUD$330.00 delivered. The wheels I used were +35 offset and I used 40mm spacers which prolly widen track about 5mm to much but a 25mm bolt on spacer would get those wheels sitting right. Just an example below: http://www.performancealloys.com/alloy_wheel_spacers.asp I know the 15's look good in that pic but personally I reckon 15 inch might look a bit small.

Looks like a cyclling top to me

Jeez what a gadget!

Yer thats no surprise. The 15x7 I had on the front just fit. From memory the rear 15x7 had about 10mm to 15mm room from rim lip to strutt. I would assume the 16x7's would be the same however I thought they had an offset of +15!? I've got a vague memory of reading that 240 front strutt diameter is smaller than the 260 as they have smaller diameter springs on the front but might be wrong. Evan, this is what I would do; find out what offset the 15x7 superlites come in. As I said I thought it would be +15 but might be +12. Once you have this info ask Gav, (seeing he has 15x7 superlites on his car), if he could measure the distance from his inner rim lip to the spring perch and outer spring lip to wheel arch. Once you have these measurements you will know how much room you have. Obviously what you want to hear is that there is at least half an inch on each side so you could fit the 8's on the back. Remember you could always use a small 5mm spacer if you need to push the wheel out a tad but thats assuming there is enough room not to rub on the fender. To create more room to push the wheel out you could also create about 6-10mm by "lipping" the guards on the rear!? It would look good if you could fit the 8's on the back. I still reckon 7's on the front and 8's on the back look nice. Sulio Not a big fan of the blue below but just FYI the wheels are 16x7 with 225x16x50. ...and the 15x7's

Yer I'll be away in Malaysia for 3 weeks soon but this is someting I've been tinking of doing for some time. I trhink I;'ll get a mate to give me a run through on mig welding. Thanks for the heads up any how mate!

I think a pretty standard price for the S12+8 is $75.00 per caliper.