gav240z

Thanks Gareth, unfortunately the photos I want of Ando San's car are all the detail shots like the 100L fuel tank, the rear hatch area, the blanked out radio and clock, the steering wheel, seats, interior w/roll cage, rear ribbed 432-R spoiler, lack of window rubber stainless trims, dual rear exhaust etc.. Even the fender mirror blanking rubbers and the mirror he used on the door I find interesting as they would all be period correct parts. I believe the PZR that Ando has replicated only had 1 appearance before it was t-boned and destroyed in a race. It was used in Nissan's press material and in their shop manuals etc.. kind of got paraded around, it would have originally been 918 orange but was repainted in the red hue. The photos in that article unfortunately don't highlight those details.

If people want LD28 cranks - I can probably source some. Price is going to probably be higher than $650 when you factor in shipping from Japan though. NZ is probably cheapest place to get them, but need a contact to help on that side - which I don't have yet.

What I thought of... but I actually thought he was being somewhat Ironic.

I really wish Nissan actually made the HS30-H in this colour, I think it really suits the ZG look. I couldn't cut up the guards on my early Z though. A few more inspirational Zeds for me. Kobe Seiko Wheels on an early S30Z Nice and simple Fairlady 240z with Watanabe wheels. Flat Black Bonnet Mean Mr Mustard. Why Steelie Wheels and no hubcaps? Because race car! Rocky Auto PS30 - Wheels are perfect fitment I also wish I had more detailed photos of Ando San from TA Auto PS30-SB replica

Why do you need a new dashboard? If you're looking to save some coin, have you seen the D.I.Y repair jobs? http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/interior-s30/23919-dash-repair-process-pictures.html I am considering giving it a go because when you re-skin a dash you loose some of the definition of the gauge pod edges. Also the re-skin means the gauges are harder to fit in due to thicker material. For what it's worth I bought a second hand re-skinned dashboard so I have that option, but I'm going to give this method an attempt and put them side by side so people can compare them and see what they think. I repaired my center console and I'm really happy with the way it turned out and I saw another member (skipz) did the same on his console and it looks really good, much better than the top-stage fiberglass reproduction he bought.

Has anyone pulled 1 of these apart before? Probably find you can rebuild them. I've seen a few reconditioned ones floating around on eBay US of A. So it must be possible.

Just found this thread also: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/body-paint-s30/13593-color-grill-rear-tail-light-panel.html @Ledge the St George tafe may have a Spectrometer in the paint shop area. I'll ask. My Gold 240z has the original tail light and grill still in their original colours but they have years of wear and tear so the colour may not be original. @Mike - Let me ask at the Tafe and I'll let you know if I need to borrow it for paint matching. At least we will have a local option that way. I just figured this would be a good small job I could do next on my car.

Yeah I've seen that before George but the price is rather eye watering and that's before shipping. I also don't think 1 can will do the rear garnish and grill. Surely someone has found something suitable locally?

Hi Guys, Does anyone know where you can get paint that matches the original 'Datsun Grey' used on the rear light panel, front grill, hub-caps etc? Seen here also: I found this comment in a thread here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-s30-z-discussions/26354-have-rear-panel-painted-leave-black.html#post265331 But I'm not sure if we have those paints available in Australia? Has anyone found a suitable product locally?

Cheap 2 seater on Gumboot. $13k http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/worongary/cars-vans-utes/1976-datsun-260z-coupe/1051250293

Looking very mad max in that satin black theme. I like the rat rod style.

Regarding your distributor here is a thread I started a while ago on this type. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php?topic=935.0 It looks the same as the 1 I have. It can develop a mis if there is slack/play in the distributor shaft, but only way to test is remove it and give it a wiggle like you would a turbo for excessive play. In the second photo I posted you can see the 'base plate' and the shaft has a wheel with teeth on it (like cogs). If those touch it will arch and cause a misfire. So the shaft should not have enough play in it to touch that base plate at any point in it's rotation. Do you hear a slight miss at idle? Like every so often it sputters? Does it still misfire at higher rpm or misfire in a way that is noticeable?

Sorry I meant pro's / con's on the 280zx distributor vs converting an earlier distributor to remove the points? I understand that points suck as a general rule.

With the Petronix ignitor do you get the full 12V spark? From what I saw in a video posted recently you retain the ballast resistor. Is there any pro's / con's to each set up? I've got a spare 280zx distributor and agree with Mark they have a fragile base plate that often causes problems with the advance mechanism etc..

So I removed the tape this morning. Tried to get photos in a range of different lighting situations. Everything is good, except the tape did remove a little bit of the black paint. So I'm going to have to touch that up, especially on the right hand spoke right where it meets the wood rim. The instructions on the polyurethane spray said apply coat 1, then wait 2 hours to apply coat 2. If you miss that window wait a minimum of 72 hours then lightly sand and spray again. I hit it within 2 hours, but I didn't sand between the 2 coats within 2 hours. I suspect I would have got a better finish if I did, but was a bit nervous about making a mess when the wood rim was only touch dry. Either way I think the wood turned out good. The black paint was good, but I should have spent a bit more time getting the masking just right. It is hard though and you'll see what I mean if you give it a shot. I should be able to lightly rub back the areas around where the paint came off and then hit it lightly with some more satin black. Since it's going to sit inside a car it won't be exposed to the elements the same as it would outside so it should up well and seems to have done so in other areas. The paint is always naturally thinner around edges so I guess it's difficult to avoid. With the gear knob I found that you have to be really diligent to only apply a small amount of stain. A small amount goes a long way on that small gear knob surface area and it looks a little heavy on it right now. I'll knock it down a bit and then apply the polyurethane, should look good and match the wooden rim nicely. Another thing to note is that the polyurethane can be applied with a brush or spray can. I would probably opt for the brush - as mentioned earlier in this thread it's really hard to know how thick your application of polyurethane is via the spray can. I feel with a brush you'd get more consistent coverage and be able to avoid over doing it more easily. I'll take some photos when I put them back in the car also.

I was hoping it would stay on the market a couple of months, give me a chance to get some coins together.

I love them always have, I even have video proof of me spotting 1 in year 2000 and saying they are cool. I'll upload that clip once I've edited it. So I'm not a recent fan boy. I love the shape and if you see 1 with all the GTR fruit it makes all the difference. The shape is super cool, plus you can actually fit people in the back comfortably. I think values have gone up simply because so many were crushed that now there is none left and so it is just supply demand driving prices. They are super rare when you consider how many were produced and they were never sold in North America so unlike the Z globally there isn't much to go around. I think all the Skylines are becoming more sought after since the recent R35 GTR. R32s are a future classic too if you can find an unmolested example. I would buy 1 if I had a place to put it.

Can you also send her electric knife so I can trim my seat foam? Actually I quite like the Jimny they apparently make good 4x4s since they are really light. Painfully slow though.

Actually they pop up quite frequently on Yahoo! Auctions but be prepared to pay more than brand new 510 mirrors (which are shorter in stalk).

Might be a pain in the arse to remove later, I'd just bubble wrap around the journals and then put packing tape around the bubble wrap to hold it in place. You might have seen that box idea from another photo I posted a while ago. But I can't find it right now.

Thanks guys I called the RMS and pretty much confirmed what you said.

In terms of storage my LD28 is in a chipboard box custom made for transporting the thing. Use some bubble wrap around it and put it in the chipboard box - should be able to get this cheap enough from Bunnings + Officeworks (for bubble wrap). That wear on the rear is quite normal and would be taken care of at time of rebuild / machining. It's caused by the rear main seal.

EEEEEEEEEEEEEeeeee - these just arrived. They are heavier than I expected, I would not want to be a pedestrian on the receiving end of these. Will need repainting and a clean up, but otherwise good. Don't ask how much they cost...

Yeah sorry I didn't read about your no roller requirement, however slotting an L-series motor into a car is easy as pie. There are quite a few used motors for sale and the L-series donk is pretty reliable so would probably be ok for a few years without having to do much to it. When it comes to 2 seaters though it's hard to be picky. There isn't a lot left sub 10K that isn't 4 months worth or rust removal and swearing .

http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,2630.msg154445.html#msg154445 Did you see this?