gav240z

and it's gone..

From the photos, cheap and won't last long.

So is this your car or another car? http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/1924-cars-for-sale-3rd-party-sites-ebay-carsales-etc/?p=180063

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/maryborough/cars-vans-utes/datsun-240z/1117988875 Price: $9,500 Location: Maryborough, Victoria. Looks like a 73 model.

That may be true Scott but this 1 sold recently also. http://page12.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/p519919492 26,500 Yen If anyone has 1 locally for sale please let me know?

http://page6.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/f183375203 1972 Nissan Fairlady 240Z (HS30)

Is your 1 the Big NISSAN or small NISSAN version?

But is it possible to do this with most L24's? Can they be over-bored enough? Or is most of the added displacement from the stroke of the crank? If the walls are too thin is re-sleeving an option to get more bore out of it? http://www.knowyourparts.com/technical-articles/installing-cylinder-sleeves/

NOS 260z clock. http://www.ebay.com/itm/191916047509 Starting bid $150 USD - reserve not met.

Very cool, but you know what's cool? The rally clock face lol..

I've bought a couple of rare spares panels, they are reasonably priced. The steel is slightly thicker gauge than standard (which is very thin). The labour component is where the money goes, you have to fettle around a bit to get a good finish with the door skins, I may need to mig weld the top of my door where the fender / door gap is (at the top front end of the door) to get the gaps 100%. That stuff can be time consuming. Also they don't have some other panels like roof skins (which would be immensely helpful) rear beaver panels / lower valance area or rear hatch skins would I would have bought given how long it took me to restore my vented hatch. You should read through the project section of this forum, lots of this stuff has been covered already. Likewise check out the body work section I've created a couple of threads on hatch repair and added to the door re-skin for dummies thread also. I think a fair chunk of change goes into the small items people forget about like rubber trims, fasteners, hard to find interior pieces, NLA stuff like rear license plate lights. Most of the mechanical stuff is still relatively speaking cheap. It's all the bits and pieces that are NLA that add up because those are the bits everyone else needs for their restoration. So prices go up accordingly. I'm trying to make my cars original again and that can get expensive when NOS AM radio's are $1,500 AUD +, D Hubcaps are $3,000 + and TOPY Steel Wheels cost $1,500 +, Ash Trays are $600 USD etc... Early cars demand a Premium and so do the parts needed to restore them. Later 72+ cars are a bit cheaper to restore.

Yep that's Mr Kiskiras alright. But point taken re: body work. I would post photos, what you think is bad might not be so bad to others. Let's see what you have and if it's worth looking for another.

$60k to do it right and refresh things and make the car look as new again. If you're just doing a refresh you can get away with less I'm sure... Once you start doing engine conversions etc.. costs add up fast. Costa Kiskiras?

Yep, and 30K doesn't go far in terms of a restoration. I reckon $60K is about what it takes to refresh a 240z properly without too much fancy stuff like engine builds.

I say post photos so we can see if what you've got is any good to start with.

Which distributor is this for? 280zx electronic dizzy with E12-80 module?

Safari Gold 240z in the UK. (RHD) CAR March 1972 K70 Lamborghini Urraco Datsun 240Z vs Lotus Plus-2S Corvette Cult Featured in sub-section: Datsun 240Z vs Lotus Plus-2S So it must be an HS30 car, late 71 perhaps? It has the early caps and colour 920. So I'd say good chance it was a VIN less than HS30 01000. Not sure if it still exists today?

Bump anyone want a Calendar Clock for their 260z?

Just came across this site for some vintage rubber pieces to suit vintage Datsun/Nissan's including the S30Z series. http://www.vintagerubber.com/datsun.aspx I've never ordered from them before, but was looking at the bumper rubber strips.

Welcome, good luck with the search.

Do it. Don't let your dreams be dreams.

An educated bully perhaps?

A good article on the 'cooling' of classic cars... https://www.classicdriver.com/en/article/cars/where-collector-car-market-going-say-experts

I'm not even sure if I should bother, feel like this is going to be a waste of time, but here we go down the rabbit hole... I've run this site since 2004, I've helped A LOT of folks in that time, as I'm sure many members here will be able to attest to. Not only have I funded the site for many years out of my own pocket (with help from donations and advertising revenue) but I've spent countless hours deleting spammers, updating the code and responding to emails and PMs. All of which I don't get paid for. My first response after I approved your "first" post here was to suggest you ad a price. Otherwise folks will speculate (as has been happening) as to what the current asking price is and it's not really fair to not list a price as many people are interested in an S30Z 2 seater and want to know where they stand. They don't want to get into a private bidding war. If I wanted to be mean I would have not approved your first post and or deleted it until you complied with the rules as stated here. So as a newbie here, here's a tip. Read the rules. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/936-must-read-classifieds-rules/ I didn't bother to tell you how to edit the post because another member already did that, I responded to your accusation that you had already asked me how to edit it, which you did not. You can try and twist it anyway you like but I feel I've got the measure of you already. Hence why I think responding is likely to be a non-productive event and lead to many more non sequitur's from you. See above... I have no problem with the asking price (which the seller still has not confirmed), he/she is entitled to ask whatever they want. But I do take issue with their attitude and non-compliance to clearly stated rules. I was going to delete the thread but instead I'll leave it and let others make up their own mind as to what they are dealing with. I was willing to go look at this car on Mark's behalf in Melbourne because I've known him for years and he isn't a time waster or tyre kicker for that matter. But it seems inspecting a car and getting an accurate representation of it is frowned upon by the seller. So you have to wonder what they may be hiding. *Edit if you sell the car here, keep the $10 (optional) donation fee. Instead put it toward buying yourself a book I read years ago which I think will help you. https://www.amazon.com/How-Win-Friends-Influence-People/dp/0671027034 *Signed - the forum bully.

Just going to add some more info here regarding an N33 cylinder head to suit an L24 and possibly L26 also. I found mentions of it here: http://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/37076-cylinder-head-differences.html http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/7767-n33-head/ However I believe this is not shown on the head as a casting code. Instead it still says E88. The N33 refers to the part no. so therefore the L26 E88 could be called a P50 head. I haven't looked through other part manuals, but I suspect you could find different part no's to signify the difference with the MR30 Skyline L24 E88 EFI head. Refer attached image.