gav240z

I'm not aware of ANY that were fitted with 8-track players. My guess is that it was sourced from Japan or the US and fitted to this car to give it the "authentic" 1 owner Grandma look.

What's both sad and funny is that doing it properly wouldn't take that much longer, some day all that bog will fall out going over a bump in the road.. I feel sorry for the poor soccer mom who buys it next.

Yeah I like them too, but a little less resto mod. What motor is in it? Looks like an FJ24?

Cheap! https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/254209488 http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/motorsport-nissan-prince-r380/ I wonder if these are the Kobe Seiko 8-spoke wheels that Alan was referencing? NB: No Watanabe logo..

Damn! Good price. I'll go second in line.

https://carsales.mobi/cars/details/_/SSE-AD-4905722 260z 2 seater for $21k - cheap in my opinion.

Does sound good, I just reckon leave them in P76's This does look the goods however

Hey mate, I'll measure the throats on my spare SUs tonight if I can remember and will post a photo if possible.

Ok so I spoke to a company in Sydney about potentially reproducing these plastic components. There is actually several plastic components in these switches, and I'm thinking about cloning them all to create a "rebuild kit" but also I may investigate other components like this hazard switch i pulled apart yesterday to discover the plastic switch mechanism inside was broken. I also have other options such as a couple of colleagues at work who may be able to assist with 3D modeling and printing etc.. so perhaps I can design and print these on my own. However I'm not sure how much demand there is?

You want 2 buttons total or you're adding a +1?

13B would be a huge improvement over most engine swaps done on these cars. Especially a bloody rover V8. haha.

Very interesting, HS30 00068 was originally 903 blue. I wonder if this car was also? However HS30 00063 was white with blue interior. Bit of a shame about the kodifications, I wonder if the original L24 is still around. It's always good to see another sub 100 car still surviving either way! https://www.facebook.com/183381061694148/photos/a.489726391059612.1073741828.183381061694148/578265445539039/?type=3&theater It would appear it had a 2JZ in it.

Yes I think any 2 seater in running drivable condition with minimal rust for under $25k is a very good price these days. I certainly would not sell any of mine that cheap...

Ditch the boat anchor and go back to L-series In fairness this motor swap was popular in the 80s and early 90s. Quite a few received this lump. If you really want a V8 the best option now is probably an LSX.

Might be worth looking at 3D printing these plastic pivot arms. https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/datsun-makers-group/things/page:1

I am only worried that I'm missing 1 of the little nub pieces for the headlight switch. Hence that switch may not work correctly. I might take the other 1 I have out of HS30 00150 and compare it and rebuild that 1 also, just to see if indeed I am missing anything out of that switch. I also have to rebuild the indicator stalk, which I think is going to be a little more difficult looking at it.

Mikuni Spares and other Nissan parts. Seller name: power_planning_02 On Yahoo! Auctions. https://www.rinkya.com/en/selling-list-power_planning_02

Thanks Linton, I actually tried using a permanent marker in white but you gotta wipe up excess around the markings quickly as it can be a pita to remove from the black plastic. I was actually thinking of going to Office Works and looking for a white out style pen that is quite thin for the trickier areas. However I'll try that last once I'm satisfied the switch is rebuilt correctly.

I got tired of wrestling with circlips and bought a pair of circlip pliers (highly recommended these kingchrome ones in particular as you can change the head of it to suit different styles of circlip). It really made the whole thing 10x easier. I managed to get the switch back together. However I am yet to test it out, I'm not sure if it will work. 1. If you refer to this picture you can see the little plastic tab on 1 side here is broken (top right corner) 2. I originally tried the Bondic material, but it requires a wax/grease free surface and even though I tried a couple of times and the material would set hard, it would break off when you applied pressure on it. Inserting the plastic nubs with the spring behind them was difficult also as the material bled over a bit, so I had to "force" it into the 'cup' area and this caused it to break off. 3, Since this side was broken I assumed the little nubs I took out had to go in this side. When I pulled the switch apart I only found 3 of those little nubs with the spring behind them. So I assumed the broken side (was the side in use), but when I put it back together the switch wasn't working correctly as it would "fall out" and into the switch. Hmmm.. so for now I've put the 3 nubs back in and haven't put it in the fourth slot. 4. At a guess what happened is the previous owner of my car attempted to repair it pulled it apart and the forth nub fell out (and is lost) and wasn't able to repair it (possibly broke the solder joint when trying) and then decided it was easier just to find another second hand unit. (don't blame him). As per the end of this article, it may be a common problem. http://www.doyouevenhoon.com/datsun-240z-gtr/how-to-rebuild-datsun-240z-headlight-switch.html I will have to wait until I'm next in Melbourne to test the switch on my 240z, unless there is a guinea pig wanting to try it before that? In the interim I'll see if I can get my hands on another to rebuild for comparison sake.

HS30 100011 https://petrolicious.com/articles/did-you-know-about-nissan-s-elegant-zg-homologation-special https://www.classicdriver.com/en/car/nissan/240z/1972/386360

Sounds like a good option, although I kind of like the idea of retaining a mechanical unit etc.. call me weird but I find that kind of stuff quite charming. However I do like the idea of being able to dynamically adjust the timing, could be good for tuning for different octane fuels. A couple of questions: 1.) What does the L-series unit cost? 2.) Can you get a black distributor cap for it? Red stands out a bit much.. 3.) Would be good to have a black coil too (keep it looking OEM). I know this is minor. 4.) So I take it there is no vacuum advance anymore? How does it handle / adjust for small throttle inputs? Or is it a fixed advance curve?

I'm curious what distributor you're running? Sounds interesting..

How the bonnet is looking so far... The leading edge has improved (although hard to tell) still needs more refinement and will probably get lead filled to fix the front-edge where I haven't been able to get it perfect. I've made a lot of mistakes repairing this bonnet, I suspect once it's painted and a skim of filler is used nobody would be any wiser, so I plan to finish it anyway, but I'm working on obtaining another bonnet in better shape. I have a spare non-fluted bonnet for my 72 240z in Melbourne but it's also had a light front-end nudge and has some bondo in it. Won't know how bad until I strip it back... but between all my cars and their bonnets I'll hopefully be able to make at least 3 good ones for each car. Accident free bonnets are incredibly rare... I honestly think most people don't realise their bonnets are bent. Take for example this car that was recently repainted. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Datsun-240z-RHD-JDM-Nissan-Fairlady-Z-1972-/222597966228?rmvSB=true It's bent like a banana in the middle...serves as a good comparison with my bonnet repair haha.

I might give a bit more heat shrinking a go, as I managed to get most of other dents out of it and restore it to look pretty straight. I'll ask the Tafe teacher for help since heat shrinking is still a bit of a black art. I have to say, I'm not really sure what the factory colour was... I suspect it was both light grey and black! Check out Kats 903 Blue 240z and his cars under tray..

Well not much to update, except that I've polished up the plastic. Looks great now. I have disassembled the switches and cleaned all the carbon build up off them. Using a green scotch brite pad and contact cleaner I got from JayCar. I also bought a good soldering iron and fixed the broken solder joint, preparing the join before hand with flux (you can apply with a texta like pen). The flux helps it stick (the solder). Now i'm a bit stuck getting the circlips back on, I'm going to buy some circlip pliers rather than wrestle with it like an idiot for ages. I've spent far more on materials, tools etc.. than it would have cost to send it to the US for restoration but... you don't learn anything that way and now I have tools I can use again. Finally 1 of the switches had a broken plastic tab. So I've tried some product called Bondic which you set using a special light.