Leaderboard

By the way here is the distributor I bought off you recently restored. I had it vapour honed, rebuilt and re-graphed to suit a stock 240z ignition curve (w SU's etc..). Quite happy with how it turned out. I didn't do the work on it myself, I had a shop do it as part of the re-curve. But they made it look pretty. As with all used 280zx distributors they are often stuffed in terms of advance mechanism, with the ball bearings and cage in bits. This was no different. I also had another done at the same time minus vacuum advance assembly for the Triple Mikuni 240z (My 72 240z). Cost a small fortune but hopefully it stops my red car pinging from too much advance.

Yep - I've bought the OEM style sound deadening kits from Harold. His service was a bit slow though... I'll update once I've fitted them.

Harold is based out of Massachusetts, he helped me with a few parts as well when I was getting my z on the road there. He is a good guy, straight up operator. The site is pretty new and he is adding more repo stuff and custom engineered bits progressively. He is now a mate and I'm happy to recommend him / his parts.

Thanks, that's what I kind of figured happened. Is there a specific process for that green colour I should ask the platers to use, do you know? I have a spare set of rails because I damaged the threads on the ones in my car when I modified my car to suit Recaro's (big mistake) anyway, I will tap and die the threads back to good and then send off the rails for replating because I bought another pair of rails years ago (for $100) from the US but they were a bit rusty/messy looking at since I installed the Ikeda Bussan seats the rails are a lot more exposed and look crap, where as the stock seats would cover them more from view. I have a couple of spare 280zx distributors here, I couldn't find them at the time otherwise I would have had all of them restored also. So maybe I can offer people an exchange service? Sounds like yours have been nicely done. I was in the process of doing that kind of plating for my '240z' points distributors, but the shaft was stuck in the housing and no amount of heat seemed to free it.

That came up really good.. I may have to get the contact details of who did it so I can have my distributor done to that spec too. I’ve already zinc coated all the metal parts from it already, and have a NOS rotor and cover piece for the top - so mine ‘should’ come up as new. as for the seat runners, they were not pulled apart. I think they’re kinda pressed together so I didn’t want to mess with them. The Zinc process got to all areas though. They did dip them in acid to get rid of all dirt and grease first.

Keeping busy at night time tackling jobs that don't make much noise. Sent off more stuff to get zinced, and have since got it back. Seat runners done in factory black (dark green) zinc plating. Really happy with how these turned out! Found a NOS Bonnet cable. Finished reassembling the car's original TOKICO BMC. Came out great! See photos above for how bad it was. Re-assembled the seat mechanisms back. Still need to get a few circlips and some clear tube to cover the spring to make it 100% proper again. Had another spare mechanism lying around, my original ones were in even worse condition than that! I've found a few more NOS parts that are in transit. Cannot wait until this car is painted and assembly can happen.

In your #2 line in your instructions, I think they mean you can't use the base of the original points distributor on a 280ZX electronic one. Where the bolt is to adjust timing on a points dizzy is in a different location to the electronic one. One mistake I've seen others do at a wrecker is just remove the timing adjusting bolt to remove the distributor and leave the base behind. (I know, I have several here!) There are several different types too. Just make sure you have the appropriate base for the distributor you bought. Hope this is valid info!