Administrators gav240z Posted December 31, 2013 Administrators Posted December 31, 2013 Hi guys, As the subject says how would I interpret this camshaft spec sheet? I bought this many years ago when I was much more green when it came to understanding how engines work and how crucial it is to have the head work match the camshaft etc.. I know many people talk about camshaft's in terms of degrees but that is subjective depending on manufacturer and I guess what I'm really trying to determine is if this camshaft would even work well on a relatively stock engine? The camshaft kit contains, springs, retainers, rockers, lash pads etc.. Quote
44014 Posted December 31, 2013 Posted December 31, 2013 That's not a mild cam. Would req head work has quite a bit if lift and duration. The overlap is not massive but would definetly give you a grumpy idle. Quote
Moderators Zedman240® Posted December 31, 2013 Moderators Posted December 31, 2013 From what I can see and remember, any cam with a valve lift over .5" is pretty chunky. Peter would be the best for this... Quote
Moderators PB260Z Posted December 31, 2013 Moderators Posted December 31, 2013 Hi Gav I had a dig around the Scheinder Cams website and the cam you have is listed. Of the 9 L6 cams they offer it is No.7 in aggression, designed to operate between 4000 & 8250 RPM. That's some pretty big revs for street use, but then again Dimitri is right Pete Mac's will be the best comment. http://schneidercams.com/dastsunL6_NA.aspx Quote
Riceburner Posted December 31, 2013 Posted December 31, 2013 The last cam on that link looks the same as my Wade 76 deg works high lift, which is apparently more of a 78 deg. Quote
dazzed Posted December 31, 2013 Posted December 31, 2013 A schneider cam for a start is made up of a compound of largely sinterd iron not steel as the genuine items are hardened an solid, here is the scenario, I do not use those cams they are soft not treated, wear out have impurities in the castings, which block oil galleries, they twist wear, and break and are not of the grinds specified on the sheets of cam timing specs they produce to be, people may disput this but proof is many poodings that have failed , Nytriding these cams is even worse as it weekens them further, As typical of all nissan engine components they are of good steel forgings Quote
Riceburner Posted December 31, 2013 Posted December 31, 2013 A schneider cam for a start is made up of a compound of largely sinterd iron not steel as the genuine items are hardened an solid, here is the scenario, I do not use those cams they are soft not treated, wear out have impurities in the castings, which block oil galleries, they twist wear, and break and are not of the grinds specified on the sheets of cam timing specs they produce to be, people may disput this but proof is many poodings that have failed , Nytriding these cams is even worse as it weekens them further, As typical of all nissan engine components they are of good steel forgings I had read the same thing and also something about the valve springs being a bit average :-\ It's way over my head though Quote
Administrators gav240z Posted December 31, 2013 Author Administrators Posted December 31, 2013 Hmm I recall discussions about that previously too. I think I'll stick it on eBay then. I might have a 240z A-Grind cam in storage. @Dazzed - is it best to regrind the OEM camshafts to a suitable profile? Or is there specific brands that you've used with success? Quote
PZG302 Posted December 31, 2013 Posted December 31, 2013 Tighe cams in Brisbane can sort you out. Dean Tighe and his dad Ivan are great blokes too, and Dean is a very quick driver in anything he drives. They sponsor the Qld hill climb series and are great supporters of club motorsport in general. http://www.tighecams.com.au/cars.htm Quote
dat2kman Posted December 31, 2013 Posted December 31, 2013 See if Phil at SureCam in Sydney can do a weld up and grind, i know Keith at Wase's in Bentleigh? Victoria can do it. Keep your original base circle diameter, but fatten the flanks and the libes, then grind. Always use a high zinc content oil! No not the so called high zincs at SupaCheep etc, but stuff the drag racers use. Ivan Tighe has now retired, I and a number of others are not overly enthused with what has been coming out of Tighe Cams, since Ivan stopped. The racers used to talk direct with Ivan! We use SureCam in preference, but my last experience with Wade's, getting a particular spec custom pair done, was excellent, A+ will buy again. The Schenieder's are fine, as long as proper high zinc oils are used, none of the Sf/SG current rubbish. Thereyago! Quote
ZED83 Posted December 31, 2013 Posted December 31, 2013 Hay Gav, I had this cam on my stroker before Peter Mc/les Collins rebuilt it. Do not use it on your stock head! This thing needs head work to Work. It smashed all the Valve stem seals and the springs looked like they weren't far off from failing to. The cam fully compressors the springs (crush) plus the valves left signs of touching the top of the pistons. I wouldn't use your springs that were provided with the cam also! Get in contact with Peter mc he will tell you what you need an what to do to make it work. That's if you still want to use it now. Quote
peter mc Posted January 1, 2014 Posted January 1, 2014 They really are sub par cams every lobe I have checked has been different , there all based on works cams , but the centreline is different , also seen them hard on rockers , there is lots in fitting a big cam , much care has to be taken in setup , if you want the best hot road cam the 1308 wade is the go but it has to have 3/45 carbs and head work and springs and retainers , this works in the mid from 3500 to 7500 in a 2.8 to 3.2 , Owen has one , ask him how it goes Quote
peter mc Posted January 1, 2014 Posted January 1, 2014 and have it ground on a Nissan cam , internal oil is the go , on a B cam is the best , do away with any spray bar there just not the best way to go , at slow speed the oil is just not there to do the job , wade will charge about 140 for the job , then you will need lash pads springs and retainers , Quote
Administrators gav240z Posted January 2, 2014 Author Administrators Posted January 2, 2014 Thanks everyone for the advice. I think I'll put this cam on Gumtree / eBay and go with a Nissan regrind cam via wade as suggested. The reason I brought it up was that I had this camshaft sitting in storage for years now and with the Safari Gold Project I'm told the motor is seized. So my options are: 1. I've had an L24 sitting in the garage for 10 years that was running fine when stored. Bring that up to NSW and install it in the old girl and see if she'll run. Only problem is non-hardened valve seats with the old L24. 2. Rebuild the L28 with E31 head currently in the car. I was thinking of putting this camshaft in it at the same time, but looks like it's not a great idea unless I go do the associated head work. 3. Find a running L28 out of a breaker or junkyard car and put that in. I found a patrol being broken with an L28 gonna check to see how much the fella wants for the L28 (and see what head it has because often the patrol's have P90s on them). I've got a compression gauge to see how good compression is etc.. might be able to see it running and check for smoke / water usage etc.. I'm thinking option #2 might be best though, but I really need to stick to a strict budget with it, so thinking of just doing a refresh - no modifications. But I do have Triple Mikuni 44 carbs, LD28 crank and L14 rods . So I am tempted to do something with a bit of grunt... decisions decisions. Quote
d3c0y Posted January 2, 2014 Posted January 2, 2014 Does your other L24 have an E88? I thought they had hardened seats. E31 is going to not be amazing on an L28 with the small valves. I think you should go with #3 and build a half decent motor as you get the money and still have something in the car to drive it around. Quote
Moderators PB260Z Posted January 2, 2014 Moderators Posted January 2, 2014 So my options are: 4. See if anyone on the forum has an L24,26 or 28 you could borrow for a while ? Just a thought Quote
Administrators gav240z Posted January 3, 2014 Author Administrators Posted January 3, 2014 Does your other L24 have an E88? I thought they had hardened seats. E31 is going to not be amazing on an L28 with the small valves. I think you should go with #3 and build a half decent motor as you get the money and still have something in the car to drive it around. Yes the L24 in storage has E88 head, but it has been sitting for 10 years which and although I've thrown a cover / blanket over it. I'm not sure if dust etc.. has gotten into it. I just cleaned up a bunch of dust and crap around it today. I'm not sure if the E31 has been modified with larger valves when it was put on the L28 block, guess I'll find out when it's torn down. I may have a P90 head to use, it's been at a shop for 6+ years now so we are not sure if they still have it, will find out Monday hopefully. Otherwise I also have an N42 Lurch gave me many moons ago. Although it will need some serious reconditioning work also! Quote
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