FLEXZED Posted March 25, 2011 Posted March 25, 2011 Hey all as the topic suggests i am wondering what you guys do to store your engines while the zed is been restored, i have a rb30et and a L28 thanks in advance Loui Quote
reverendzed Posted March 25, 2011 Posted March 25, 2011 Just move it into another room of the house where it is out of the way, nothing worse than stubbing your toe on an L28 when you get outta bed! I got this tip from some friends of mine in Alabama when I was in the States! Rev. Quote
Sirpent Posted March 25, 2011 Posted March 25, 2011 Hey all as the topic suggests i am wondering what you guys do to store your engines while the zed is been restored, i have a rb30et and a L28 thanks in advance Loui You know that house extension your wife wants? Do it and then use the new bedroom as a Zed storage facility. Quote
FLEXZED Posted March 25, 2011 Author Posted March 25, 2011 hey john, wont be doing any extentions, need to go under ground and build my zed workshop ( at least spave for 6 cars ), so will be looking at new house in about 6 months thanks guys thanks for your comments, but i have zed parts in the formal lounge and dining room already, what i need to know is should i have oil in the motor, turn it over by hand every week, month etc etc Loui Quote
Moderators Zedman240® Posted March 25, 2011 Moderators Posted March 25, 2011 Coat the cylinders with spray/engine oil, cover the intake/exhaust ports with some good strong tape (not masking tape) and keep it dry and out of the weather..and thoroughly flush the block with water (I mean through the cooling passages) before you store it and dry it. Quote
Scoota G Posted March 25, 2011 Posted March 25, 2011 I've seen a few wrapped in cling wrap. Lots and lots of cling wrap. Quote
KatoKid Posted March 25, 2011 Posted March 25, 2011 There are dedicated products designed specifically for this in the aviation industry. Engines are run for a few minutes in the aircraft or the test cell and removed and stored with desiccant tubes in place of spark plugs, they are specific MIL spec products but are hard to find and pretty expensive. Most agricultural products have VPI's (vapour phase inhibitors) as many pieces of farm equipment (harvesters) are used seasonally and then parked for the rest of the year. VPI's will provide reasonable protection against corrosion. Another alternative is 4 stroke outboard oils which are essential automotive grades with VPI added. Quote
handsandwhich Posted March 25, 2011 Posted March 25, 2011 Just move it into another room of the house where it is out of the way, nothing worse than stubbing your toe on an L28 when you get outta bed! I got this tip from some friends of mine in Alabama when I was in the States! Rev. Wack a piece of clear glass over the top of it and call it a coffee table = win? Quote
PeterAllen Posted March 25, 2011 Posted March 25, 2011 Loui - make sure you drain and blow dry all the fuel ways - carby or injectors. My engine sat for 2 years and the fuel coagulated in the injectors. As far as body panels go, just use the study like I did. Quote
zeds4ever Posted March 25, 2011 Posted March 25, 2011 Don't know if youv'e already done it but make sure you empty the fuel tank of all fuel & clear out any fuel that may be left in your fuel lines. Made the mistake of not doing this myself & because I let the car sit for a few years the bloody fuel lines rusted out from the inside in the shape of very small & hard to see pit holes. Only found out when I tried to start car & the pressure of pump dumped fuel out from said holes. Nearly crapped myself. Could have blown my Baby up. Regards: Alan. Quote
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