Moderators Zedman240® Posted September 12, 2012 Moderators Posted September 12, 2012 Nope, the 260 that still a work in progress.....very slowly... Quote
KatoKid Posted September 12, 2012 Author Posted September 12, 2012 Would they be able to blast a set of triples on their manifold? Just curious as mine look like crapiola. Pretty sure they would be able to, there was a Stromberg style carb on the bench when I picked up my stuff and it looked brilliant. Quote
luvemfast Posted September 12, 2012 Posted September 12, 2012 Looks amazing Dave. Can you get it anodized? Quote
peter mc Posted September 12, 2012 Posted September 12, 2012 you need to strip them and yep there so nice when you get them back Quote
KatoKid Posted September 12, 2012 Author Posted September 12, 2012 Looks fantastic Dave, well worth the money! Are you going to clear coat it? Probably not G man, Ive seen clear discolour over time so not keen to go there. Looks amazing Dave. Can you get it anodized? Dont know Simon. Engine bay is going to be strictly satin black and natural aluminium, no other colours so anodizing other than black isnt an option. May have a sprinkle of Carbon Fibre on the induction side.....hint, hint. Quote
KatoKid Posted September 12, 2012 Author Posted September 12, 2012 There is?.....typing "clear anodizing" into google...... Quote
luvemfast Posted September 12, 2012 Posted September 12, 2012 There is a clear anodizing. There is?.....typing "clear anodizing" into google...... Correct, hence why I brought it up. I agree that clear coating would be a bad idea. But a clear anodize would work well for the look you are going for. And protect it so the look lasts longer. Quote
KatoKid Posted October 4, 2012 Author Posted October 4, 2012 Well the Z's back home, all back together and looking like a car again. Ive still got some rust repairs to do but they're the easy ones that didn't make sense to pay the panel shop to do. Bought myself an early Christmas present......I'm tired of rolling around on the floor to service cars and the price is just too good to ignore, less than half of what it was only a few years ago. Will make working on the Z a breeze! Quote
garvice Posted October 4, 2012 Posted October 4, 2012 Well done. I'd be lost without my hoist. Think next shed will have two. Ha Quote
garvice Posted October 4, 2012 Posted October 4, 2012 Oh yeah with mine I found it was easy enough to stand up each leg (though it was from a ute not a trailer) and then we just crab walked the legs to where they needed to go. Managed to do it pretty much by myself once I worked out how to maneuver it. Quote
KatoKid Posted October 4, 2012 Author Posted October 4, 2012 Oh yeah with mine I found it was easy enough to stand up each leg (though it was from a ute not a trailer) and then we just crab walked the legs to where they needed to go. Managed to do it pretty much by myself once I worked out how to maneuver it. Yep, that's how I did it too! Hoist is installed, just waiting on electrikery. The M3 engine ran fine when it was on the test stand but they do have issues with the Vanos (variable cam timing) system. The Vanos system has solenoids controlled by the ECU that directs high pressure oil (there is an additional oil pump inside the Vanos housing to boost pressure over what the main engine oil pump provides) to cylinders either side of a piston that is connected to helical splined gears on the camshaft, as the piston moves back and forward the helical gears then either advance or retard the cams. First issue is the seals inside the cylinders are underspeced for the application and they degrade and then leak internally which results in the cams being in the wrong place at the wrong time so poor performance. The second issue is noise. The 'diesel rattle' that is heard can be attributed to the helical splined gears that fit at the back of the vanos. Each splined gear has a bearing assembly inside which allows it to spin freely with the camshaft. These bearing assemblies are designed with a very loose tolerance from the manufacturer causing them to rattle or resonate at certain RPM's. Besian Systems markets both seal kits and rattle kits, which cost $200 all up delivered from the US . Figured I would have to do this eventually and its better do the job with the engine out of the car. The job isn't particularly difficult but takes a long time (second time would be much quicker) and its easy to miss time the cams if your not careful. The procedure instructions on the website http://www.beisansystems.com/procedu..._procedure.htm http://www.beisansystems.com/procedu..._procedure.htm are very detailed and accurate and if you take your time and double check everything you wont go wrong. Hardest part was installing the Teflon seals....stretching them without breaking or damaging them. The reason why Vanos units are problematic.......Rolls Royce is involved! Like many things RR build its over complicated and quirky. I work in the aviation industry and their large turbofan engines are more complicated than everyone elses, when they work they work very well but they aren't the most reliable either. The inlet cam piston seal which normally gives the most problems was definitely shot on mine so I'm glad I did the seal kit. Quote
KatoKid Posted October 4, 2012 Author Posted October 4, 2012 The rattle kit was pretty straight forward but like the seal kit took a fair bit of time to get the clearances just right and the tools that Besian sell are a must have. It takes a few assemblies and disassemblies to get the clearances spot on. The aim is to have a slight amount of preload on the torrington bearings once the end cap is torqued down so you have to keep taking small amounts off the ring to sneak up on it. I'm going to run the engine on my test stand again just to be sure its all good. My engine definitely had some Vanos rattle, not too bad but it will be intersting to compare with the rattle kit fitted. Quote
jamo240 Posted October 4, 2012 Posted October 4, 2012 Hey Dave...good to see you are getting through the issues one by one...it's a bit of a tough project period when you are sorting out rattles and squeaks! Keep it up mate. Cheers Jamo Quote
Sirpent Posted October 4, 2012 Posted October 4, 2012 David Your posts are always full of substance innovation and results, looking good Buddy Cheers John Quote
KatoKid Posted October 11, 2012 Author Posted October 11, 2012 One of the other issues the BMW engines have is that the nut that holds the sprocket on the oil pump shaft comes loose with catastrophic results, this can easily be fixed by lock wiring or welding the nut however under extreme use they can also break the nose off the shaft off. While I'm not intending to race this thing I will use it for some track days and other events so I'm keen to do the most to ensure its as bullet proof as possible so I'm going with a VAC Motorsport oil pump drive which uses a keyed drive verses a tapered spline which solves both issues of the nut coming loose and the nose of the shaft snapping off. While I was ordering the VAC Motorsport oil pump drive I also ordered one of their -10 AN oil cooler line adapters which is required if you cant use the factory oil cooler lines. The top end is back together as is the bottom end with new front and rear main seals so I'm now reassembling with new gaskets and O rings where ever possible. I was putting the ITB's back on and thought I would share a photo of the inlet port....pretty nice for a production engine. Quote
KatoKid Posted October 11, 2012 Author Posted October 11, 2012 Hare & Forbes had a discounted offer on these https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/S302 in the last issue of Street Machine........ My poor misguided brother has a thing for FX-FJ Holdens and has two restos on the go at the moment, a ute and a sedan so between the two of us he needs one of these more than I do! He also has a big ass compressor at his factory so we struck a deal and will share the blaster at his factory. I figure it wont take long to recoup what it cost and the convenience of having one to use at any time will be brilliant as I start prepping and reassembling the drive train and suspension parts. The sump and oil filter housing I had Hydroblasted, came up fantastically but it wasn't a cheap option and the guy is a long drive from my place so I bought some glass beads for the blaster and gave it its first run on my badly coroded thermostat housing and the serpentine belt tensioner. Very, very happy with the outcome. It was easy to use and very controlled and the end result was nearly as good as the Hydroblasting, not as shiny but a more factory finish anyway. Quote
Riceburner Posted October 11, 2012 Posted October 11, 2012 Wowsers look at those ports The sandblasted parts looks as good as new, I bet you'll start putting everything in it! Quote
KatoKid Posted October 11, 2012 Author Posted October 11, 2012 The sandblasted parts looks as good as new, I bet you'll start putting everything in it! Too right, my gearbox is just as bad as the sump was so Im going to do that as well! Quote
Sirpent Posted October 11, 2012 Posted October 11, 2012 Sensational David ! So whats going to be the hourly rate for your Bavarian mate ? John Quote
Rat1314 Posted October 11, 2012 Posted October 11, 2012 I got a media blaster not too long ago and you end up using it for anything you can, can't beat the results for the time it takes. Quote
garvice Posted October 11, 2012 Posted October 11, 2012 I even do the rust repair panels in mine before I weld then in.figure it is better then hitting with flapper disc and potentially removing metal. Quote
luvemfast Posted October 11, 2012 Posted October 11, 2012 Try baking soda afterwards. Will give a softer, shinier finish. You might just get away without the glass bead blast on some parts too. Great work and agree with Gareth. Look at those factory ports Quote
benny Posted October 12, 2012 Posted October 12, 2012 baking soda is great... and residue just washes away!! Quote
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