L26 Engine - UPDATE: now not required

[twosixtyzed]

[UPDATE 15 DEC 2025 - no new engine required - I appreciate all the help - more details at the bottom of the thread]

 

Anyone thinking of doing an engine swap and needs to sell their L26?  Let me know please?  It has to be a known good/running.  I have one in mine that is non-seized, it drives but smokes more than "Cigarette Smoking Man" after a long day dealing with Mulder and Skully (anyone? No?  Too obscure?)

I recently bought a my 1974 260z 2+2 knowing it had issues, the PO messed with it, timing is 180 degrees out and that's the least of my problems. I am realistic to know the limits of my skills and rebuilding an engine is not in my skillset, but I have budget for the swap. I am awaiting the quote from dandyengines, I want to keep it stock, I have refurbished SU carbs, but I know I am looking at 10k AUD, right?

I know of an L26 which has sat for 10yrs and is non-seized but that's not really moving me forwards much.  Any help would be appreciated, let's keep these beautiful cars running!

Edited December 15, 2025 by twosixtyzed

[OdinZ]

On 11/21/2025 at 9:30 AM, twosixtyzed said:

Anyone thinking of doing an engine swap and needs to sell their L26?  Let me know please?  It has to be a known good/running.  I have one in mine that is non-seized, it drives but smokes more than "Cigarette Smoking Man" after a long day dealing with Mulder and Skully (anyone? No?  Too obscure?)

I recently bought a my 1974 260z 2+2 knowing it had issues, the PO messed with it, timing is 180 degrees out and that's the least of my problems. I am realistic to know the limits of my skills and rebuilding an engine is not in my skillset, but I have budget for the swap. I am awaiting the quote from dandyengines, I want to keep it stock, I have refurbished SU carbs, but I know I am looking at 10k AUD, right?

I know of an L26 which has sat for 10yrs and is non-seized but that's not really moving me forwards much.  Any help would be appreciated, let's keep these beautiful cars running!

If you are going to the trouble of rebuilding an engine, I would encourage looking at rebuilding an L28 if you can find one for a decent price. I did spot an L28 block (no head) for under $500 on facebook marketplace in VIC. 

I would also recommend speaking to Pearl Automotive Engineering in Montrose and go from there. A few of my mates have had their engines built (L28 to 3Litres), and the price was pretty reasonably from memory. Might be out of the budget, but I am sure they can do a standard rebuild for a good price. 

Then maybe even look at buying these triple webers from Lindsay if there is room in the budget:

https://www.gumtree.com.au/web/listing/engine-engine-parts-transmission/1337873285

 

[gav240z]

On 11/21/2025 at 9:30 AM, twosixtyzed said:

Anyone thinking of doing an engine swap and needs to sell their L26?  Let me know please?  It has to be a known good/running.  I have one in mine that is non-seized, it drives but smokes more than "Cigarette Smoking Man" after a long day dealing with Mulder and Skully (anyone? No?  Too obscure?)

We're not that old, first thing to do would be confirm where the oil burning is coming from, if the motor has sat a long time, it may simply be dried out valve stem seals leaking oil from the top end of the motor into the combustion chamber. Replacing those may fix your oil burning issues. Otherwise it will be bottom end oil control rings. But it's worth a shot, since I had that issue years ago and replaced the seals and it was fine after.

[AndBir]

On 11/25/2025 at 4:11 PM, OdinZ said:

Then maybe even look at buying these triple webers from Lindsay if there is room in the budget:

https://www.gumtree.com.au/web/listing/engine-engine-parts-transmission/1337873285

Nope, you MUST only get the 152G webers that come with the 4 progression holes, AFAIK the plain 152 webers came with 3 progression holes from factory. And of course you need to ensure that the jets/tubes etc are suitable for what engine you have.

See this post : https://www.viczcar.com/forums/topic/15533-drilling-a-progression-hole/

 

Edited November 29, 2025 by AndBir
added text

[twosixtyzed]

Guys, thanks so much for the input, I really appreciate it and I am currently researching all those points, and reached out to Wayne at Pearl automotive who was dead helpful (and a man down) - it's a relief to know there's help out there.  I'll do my best not to take too much and give where I can here on the forum.

[JDM-TOY]

See if Carlos from Sports Car Classics Sydney has an engine laying around 0418284776

 

https://www.facebook.com/share/17NrD7b2HX/

[C.A.R.]

I'm a bit late to this. You could try replacing the valve stem seals, but it's more likely to be worn piston oil control rings.
Nissan use a very soft ring and they wear prematurely, causing oil burning.

If you were keen to DIY, pop the head off, pistons out, dingle ball hone and fit new rings. 

[OdinZ]

Just saw this posted in NSW with carbies

 

https://www.facebook.com/share/1EeCiWSqMM/

 

 

[twosixtyzed]

@C.A.R. @gav240z You were right, it was the valve stem seals - you guys rock!  Last week I got booked in with Richard at Allcraft and he's worked his magic on it, she's up and running again.  It took a lot of work.  Shout out to him and Lou Mondello - Allcraft Automotive 23 Wren Rd, Moorabbin VIC 3189 (03) 9532 2919

When I asked him what we should work on next to get it past RWC he rolled his eyes and said "where do I start....?!"  Yeah.  Enough said.  It's a restoration!  I'm sourcing an airbox for the twin SUs then he can dial it in on the dyno...she might even make 3rwhp!

Right....back to admiring Nedz ride.