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Full Set Of 240Z 2 Seater Chassis Rails (Nat0_240_Chevz Version)

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Have a full set of new chassis rails that are now surplus to my needs as I have sold the 240z shell I bought them for.

 

Available at original cost to me including freight to all eastern States

 

Will offer to forum members first (first week or so) before I advertise on ebay or gumtree

 

$1175 (incl. freight as above)

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Hey mate, do you have pics and what thickness and type is the steel?

 

Cheers Alex

Hi Alex,

I don't think I have any pictures handy.

 

I think Nat0 has detailed them pretty well on his topic on this forum.

 

Believe it is a thicker gauge & is a galva bond material.

 

What I have for sale is his complete chassis rail kit for a 240z 2 seater (including the rear extension to underside of floors)

 

Rails run from radiator support panel to rear sub frame.

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I have some floor rail sets available now.

But a change in jobs, extended travel may see a 12 month delay. Before any production.

Nat0

 Hi Nat0,

 

Do you have these for the 260z 2 seater?

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Hi Nat_0

Your name came up in conversation the other day and yes i know you are away on extended travel , but a question for you . Do you , will you, could you make up chassis rails LH and RH side for 260z 2+ 2 on return  . Mine are stuffed due to internal rust .

 

Rgds Lynton Perkins 

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Posted (edited)
Quote

 

Nato,

Are you still making Datsun engine chassis rails? Need rails for 260z 1976 model. Else it might be scrap! 

Thanks Effan

 

Nathan is on a round Australia trip with his family - don't expect an answer any time in the near future...

And don't be an idiot -  a set of rusty chassis rails isn't going to scrap a Z!
They are not hard to fix:
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55485901_629203877502812_1315915552144752640_n.jpg

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Edited by C.A.F.

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Not sure which portions of the chassis rails are in question? Engine bay or under-floor?

The Zed structures are just bare steel inside hence they rust from the inside out. Replace the rusted steel sections and pump the cavities with rust-proofer.

The above picture shows a nice tidy repair by CAF to the rear portion of a under-floor rail but I don't see a drain hole anywhere. There are normally two drain holes to the underside (maybe lost with previous repairs?), and I would recommend drilling a third at the very rear fold.

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::)
No drain holes that far back in a 2+2 - otherwise I would have drilled one!

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I'm not talking about a rusted engine bay rail. I'm talking about one rail bent up ~150mm and in ~300mm so much so the strut was bent and almost pulled out of stub axle. The rail is badly creased. Talk about bent like a dog leg. The force also bent the other side rail. Amazing what a 1100cc motor bike at 90kms can do. Having trouble finding anyone who will repair it. Easiest will be to replace the rail (s). Do you know anyone in Melbourne who might be able to repair?

 

 

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Agreed, the drain holes aren't positioned very well, even on my 2-seat which has a shorter floor. Therefore, as I said, I would recommend drilling a third drain hole at the very rear because that's where moisture and dirt gathers. But up to you. ;)

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4 hours ago, Effan said:

I'm not talking about a rusted engine bay rail. I'm talking about one rail bent up ~150mm and in ~300mm so much so the strut was bent and almost pulled out of stub axle. The rail is badly creased. Talk about bent like a dog leg. The force also bent the other side rail. Amazing what a 1100cc motor bike at 90kms can do. Having trouble finding anyone who will repair it. Easiest will be to replace the rail (s). Do you know anyone in Melbourne who might be able to repair?

 

 

Evan, if you are the guy who messaged me on Facebook a few weeks ago about repairing it, I replied to your message.
Regardless, give me a call on: Zero Four Zero Zero Zero Five Four Five Seven Two
I'll be able to fix repair it ;) 

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12 hours ago, gilltech said:

Agreed, the drain holes aren't positioned very well, even on my 2-seat which has a shorter floor. Therefore, as I said, I would recommend drilling a third drain hole at the very rear because that's where moisture and dirt gathers. But up to you. ;)

And the holes should face backwards, put a same sized rod in a hole and lever it in the direction you want the hole to face. Otherwise the holes allow whatever into the rails.

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And the holes should face backwards, put a same sized rod in a hole and lever it in the direction you want the hole to face. Otherwise the holes allow whatever into the rails.

Exactly. Good solution. FWIW my car was only 10 yrs old when I bought it and the slim underfloor rails were already well plugged up at the rear with road grime and mud, I reckon the drain holes let as much in as out. A prime example of poor design IMO. I eventually had mine repaired, then drilled new drain holes at the very rear, heavily rust-proofed them, and no more problems since. I advise others to do the same if it's not too late.

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Hi guys,

those holes you speak of are not drain holes, as such but are tool/jig holes for assy on the factory line. pressed panels used pins to drop onto, floor ontop and then the welders go to town with their spotwelders. 

Back from travels, haven't checked the forum in a long time, spotted the updates of late and thought id chime in. 

Yes the holes tend to let more crap in than out, but hey. 

Good to see the old rails being on-sold. 

Nat0

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