Onsite Help Wanted This W.end To Get Engine Going. Around St.kilda

[aircobra]

i'm totally stumped

having had the engine working perfectly after the monumental 180 degree distributor shaft screw up ( if you;ve been following my thread) , i can't get it even to cough once. all i;ve done is mated up a new exhaust, but must have stuffed something up

tried all the usual

yes, fuel, yes spark, yes compression , yes timing, yes different coil ( just in case)

i don';t think its diagnosable via the internet and i'm totally out of ideas

for a slab of amber fluid of your choice ( or equivalent)- can someone drop by and help me out before i burn this car

[my_mad_z]

If I can make it on Sunday afternoon, I'll be more than happy to try and help. I have a few things on so I can't guarantee it at this stage. 

[peter t]

If I was closer it wouldn't be a problem but I am a little far away. Do you have that ceramic resistor thingy on you coil. If it burns out car won't run.

[44014]

Start from beginning,

Check tdc with a screw driver in the spark plug hole. Make sure it is the compression stroke you can confirm this by looking through the oil filler cap to look at cam lobe position.

Ensure the rotor is facing cylinder one.

If you have spark and you have fuel it will run.

[aircobra]

thanks everyone for the replies !

44014 - checked that

mad_z - i'll pm you my details

old-retired - its fine, i've bypassed everything and am runing the coil directly from the +terminal. there's a couple of threads on the resistor. while the engine is cranking, the resistor is bypassed

[aircobra]

thanks to mad_z - what a life saver. ;D

its amazing what running a fresh pair eyes does

ok, these were the problems

1. the wire that runs from to the points inside the distributor was frayed and arcing - no idea how that happened

2. the points were bent and not contacting properly, so i picked up a $10 pair from repco, but amazingly they did not fit. we had to elongate the adjustment hole

3. got spark, but no start

4. then mad_z spotted that i had the bowls tilted 45 degrees - which i did not notice. so i swapped the rubber isolators from left to right. problem solved

5. now no fuel in the owl, so i filled them up direct

6. VROOM fires up first tick

still something up with the pump, its not pulling thru as soon as there's air in the line

also idling too high, even though all the screws are turned _out_ all the way

next will have to get a timing light from somewhere

[d3c0y]

So fuel, no

Spark, no. lol

[C.A.R.]

thanks to mad_z - what a life saver. ;D

its amazing what running a fresh pair eyes does

ok, these were the problems

1. the wire that runs from... *snip*

 

[peter t]

Some people just need a helping hand. Good to you got her going mate good on mad-z for helping a fellow Zeder out.

[aircobra]

1.here's the frayed points wire

https://www.flickr.com/photos/62957688@N08/35114419370/in/dateposted-public/

2. the tacho sort of works, starts at 500 rpm and then just stumbles around the clock, so can't really tell what the idling speed is. 

 

so fuel - some - at bottom of the bowl which were tilted at 45 degrees

spark - some - see #1 above

 

does any one know which way the battery terminals are meant to be facing originally ? closest to the firewall or closest to the engine?