WTB control arm spindle.

[Iceberg]

Hi,

 

Does anyone have a spare control arm spindle?

Ordered one will take 3 weeks to arrive so I can replace yours or purchase outright.

These are the worst to try to get out!

Left was easy but the right would not let go, we tried so many methods:

• Soaked it in WD40

• Manufactured a tool to pull it out – the thread stripped

• Hit it with big copper hammers from both sides to make it move – nothing

• Heated it with blow torch and hit it with copper hammers from both sides – still nothing

 

At this point we hit is so hard that the thread ends warped and squished, so we did the following:

• File and re-thread the ends

• Heat and cool the hut to try to break the bond

• Used the pull tool again

It just does not move.

The plan is to borrow a hydraulic press and get press the spindle out; I suspect it will come out with a tonne of force.

Once it does I need to do the bushings replacement and replace the spindle (with copious amounts of copper grease)

But I do not have a spindle and I am not allowed to leave the Z there as it is not my workshop so I am stuck.

 

[PeterAllen]

A 5/8" bolt will get you out of trouble. An fastener supplier will have them.

[Cozza]

Stewart Wilkins does a bolt type upgrade.

 

http://www.swmotorsport.com.au/product_info.php?cPath=1&products_id=101

 

[dat2kman]

30ton ram press, and a lot of heat.

Just did two recently.

Tried all the above, the 3/4" bit of threaded rod did move one, by 5mm, but they just bind up.

 

Be prepared for lots of straining on the shop press, it will let go.

I ended up hacksawing the end bits, between lower arem and strut base, those end bits then fall out, its tye strut base that is reasonably easy to then hold in a press.

[Iceberg]

Thanks Peter, Cozza, Dat2kman.

 

I must have spent at least good 5 hours on that one spindle. Amazing just how well it binds.

 

I will have a chat with the SW Motorsport guys.

 

Peter Alan, is there a specific material bolt you would recommend?

 

I did hacksaw the end bits already, the control arm is held up by lots of metal zip ties so that i can move the Z about he workshop but the car cant stay there for long, we do have a 2 tonne press there so i may try to use that as the hydraulic one is only 1 tonne.

 

It is going to be another interesting Saturday.

 

I just cant believe how long everything takes to refurbish parts properly on these cars.

[Scoota G]

I sent you a PM Iceberg as i have one here.

[peter t]

There is a thread on removing these somewhere here. Just have to find it. In suspension I think. And yes they can be a pita to get apart. I have two spares but SW is closer than me.

[PeterAllen]

...Peter Alan, is there a specific material bolt you would recommend? ...

 

I wasn't advocating it as a permanent solution. I read your post to suggest you were under pressure to remove the car quickly. If the spindle pin is stuck then just reassemble that side and drive it to where you have to. If you what to reassemble the side you have removed the pin from then yes, get any non-galvanised 5/8" bolt. I think they are about 0.006" under the 16mm of the Datsun spindle pin.

[dat2kman]

Surprising how much "slop" there is with a 5/8 shanked bolt, versus a 16mm diam bolt.

Can use a (very expensive, and very overkill in rating) cap screw/Allen headed shanked bolt rather than hex head.

Trim off the excess thread, and if there is the usual gap between bottom of strut casting, and lower control arm inner bush tubes, slide in a suitable thickness washer, this reduces fore/aft slop and potential for knocking noises.

[gilltech]

I replaced mine more than 25 years ago, sliced the shaft (& projecting inner bush ends) through in two places with a hacksaw - there was just enough clearance to slide the blade in - to separate the arm from the strut.

Then used a welding torch to gradually soften & burn away the rubber of the bushes until the inners were weakened enough & could be forced/pressed out, takes a fair while, you don't want to burn all your black paint off.

Then carefully slot the outer sleeves left behind - hacksaw again - to weaken them & collapse them inwards with a small cold chisel to remove them.

Clean, touch up paintwork, & press in new bushes - do them gradually to set & keep them even & to set the right gap for the strut to fit into between them.

New spindles, washers, seals, lots of copper grease. New lock pins.

So many years later, thanks to the copper grease, the spindles are removable if ever required, I know because I checked them only last year.

[Scoota G]

One on the way for a site donation. Good man Tomas 

[Iceberg]

Hi Scoota G,

 

Donation made.

 

Gav, please confirm as it does not show up on my Avatar yet paypal says that it has been taken out.

 

Thanks everyone for the advice.

 

I also picking up another two this Sunday so if anyone gets stuck let me know ans i can send you one and you can replace it later.

 

Thanks again for all the advice.

 

PS if anyone wants to come and help me replace all of my bushings on my Z this Saturday please let me know - as if.

 

 

Cheers

Tomas

[Agno]

Just a suggestion for those doing this job, get a hone tool and give the struts a quick going over. I found the spindle pins had seized because of ovality in the struts and also excess material in the middle of the cylinder where the locking screw goes.

[PeterAllen]

Just a suggestion for those doing this job, get a hone tool...

 

Easy enough to make. Use a piece of 8-10mm dia rod (steel or timber) about 150mm long and cut a hacksaw slot in one end about 30mm deep. Tear off a piece of approx 120-240 grit emery cloth, about 30mm x 70-100mm, and insert an end into the slot, then wrap the the remainder of the cloth around the slotted section of the rod. Make sure you wrap it in the direction on rotation when the rod is driven by a hand drill.

 

Just clean up the bore - don't overdo it.

[Agno]

I did that also, but I used one of these babies to scrape a much larger amount of material off the cylinder walls!