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steering wheel clean up


phillay

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IMG_20140704_083512.jpg

 

After second coating of minwax stain, you can see it has a nice gloss. When I got home last night I rubbed it down lightly with 000 grade steel wool. Which took a bit of the sheen off it, but then as you can see it has got that gloss back (even nicer) after the second coating.

 

This photo was taken in the morning after it's been drying over night.

 

Next step is to do the Polyurethane, but I'm wondering should I hit it with 000 steel wool again before spraying it? Or should I hit it with the Polyurethane then use steel wool before the second coat of Polyurethane spray?

 

I plan to do about 3 coats of the Poly.

 

So far really happy with the way the wood grain is looking and the wheel is turning out. I'll be doing the gear knob next.

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I thought it was hanging from the crane for a second and was going to make a joke about how heavy is your wheel, then noticed it's hanging by a wire in front of the crane  :D

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Hey George, I did 2 coats of the polyurethane and now instructions say wait minimum of 72 hours before another coat. So I'm gonna so light steel wool then final spray tomorrow night.

 

Just doing the gear knob now also.

 

As for the stain I saw a couple of wheels in those threads where they didn't use it and it looked too dull to me. I like the cherry red colour. I guess it is personal preference and depends if you like the colour of the wheel as it is.

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Yeah that's what I'm doing mate, a light sand between each coat of stain and clear polyurethane.

 

Gear knob before.

IMG_20140706_213641.jpg

 

IMG_20140706_213649.jpg

 

Step 1. Remove the old button.

IMG_20140706_213657.jpg

 

There is probably a better way, but I used a heat gun and it actually ruined the button, which although it was in bad shape anyway I kinda wanted to save.

 

IMG_20140706_214032.jpg

 

This is what heat does to the button.

IMG_20140706_214037.jpg

 

Compare the colour of the knob with the steering wheel.

IMG_20140706_214851.jpg

 

First coat of stain

IMG_20140706_220342.jpg

 

Will sand when dry and apply the second stain coat, then it's onto the polyurethane like the wheel. Should make a nice matching pair, and I have a 5 speed button to go on it.

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Looks great Gav. IIRC cabinet makers sand after each coat of clear varnish, sanding between every coat of stain or varnish can't do any harm I wouldn't think.

 

Edit: Sorry I meant to say sand after each coat of varnish only. But it's working great so far, stick to that formula I say  8)

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So I removed the tape this morning.

 

Tried to get photos in a range of different lighting situations.

 

IMG_20140708_083855.jpg

IMG_20140708_083917.jpg

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Everything is good, except the tape did remove a little bit of the black paint. So I'm going to have to touch that up, especially on the right hand spoke right where it meets the wood rim.

 

The instructions on the polyurethane spray said apply coat 1, then wait 2 hours to apply coat 2. If you miss that window wait a minimum of 72 hours then lightly sand and spray again.

 

I hit it within 2 hours, but I didn't sand between the 2 coats within 2 hours. I suspect I would have got a better finish if I did, but was a bit nervous about making a mess when the wood rim was only touch dry. Either way I think the wood turned out good. The black paint was good, but I should have spent a bit more time getting the masking just right. It is hard though and you'll see what I mean if you give it a shot.

 

I should be able to lightly rub back the areas around where the paint came off and then hit it lightly with some more satin black. Since it's going to sit inside a car it won't be exposed to the elements the same as it would outside so it should up well and seems to have done so in other areas. The paint is always naturally thinner around edges so I guess it's difficult to avoid.

 

With the gear knob I found that you have to be really diligent to only apply a small amount of stain. A small amount goes a long way on that small gear knob surface area and it looks a little heavy on it right now. I'll knock it down a bit and then apply the polyurethane, should look good and match the wooden rim nicely.

 

Another thing to note is that the polyurethane can be applied with a brush or spray can. I would probably opt for the brush - as mentioned earlier in this thread it's really hard to know how thick your application of polyurethane is via the spray can. I feel with a brush you'd get more consistent coverage and be able to avoid over doing it more easily.

 

I'll take some photos when I put them back in the car also.

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  • 2 weeks later...
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So I finished the gear knob finally.

IMG_20140716_175904.jpg

 

The good angle showing the good bit of Chrome at the bottom :)

IMG_20140716_175420.jpg

 

I found that I couldn't get the polyurethane not to leave a splotchy look, after many tries I found the best method for the best finish is to use fine 000 steel wool between coats then lightly spray a mist (very light), wait 2 hours and spray another thin mist and let it dry. Then steel wool (repeat). This seems to have given it the best glossy look.

 

Next to attach the 5 speed button. I bought a glue gun from Office Works for like $10 or so.

IMG_20140716_181602.jpg

 

When attaching the button make sure the gear knob is done up tight on the shifter. Then glue the button down facing the right direction.

IMG_20140716_181546.jpg

IMG_20140716_181553.jpg

 

If the thread on the gear knob is worn out, you can simply use an epoxy type glue in the thread, then drill a slightly smaller diameter hole and then thread it onto the gear shift lever which will thread it again for you. Thankfully mine wasn't clapped out and still has good internal thread.

 

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Thanks Peter, last photo I'll post in here :)

 

IMG_20140718_181235.jpg

 

Funny how even though I stained both with the same colour both the wheel and gear knob look different. I guess the gear knob was a bit darker looking underneath to start with. The difference in the car is less obvious (flash makes it look like that!).

 

Obviously my interior is dusty - it is a project car, but with new door trims, dash and my restored center console it should look good!

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  • 6 months later...
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Just found this post here:

http://revlimiter.net/blog/2015/10/momo-wood-wheel-restoration/

 

It has some details on the restoration of a wood wheel, I might give this technique a try on my other early S30Z solid spoke steering wheel to compare the difference in how they turn out. I would really like to get a gloss finish on it.

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I've been wondering if all the z steering wheels are wooden? as I mine has the leather bound type which is pretty worn. I know there's kit for them but just wonder if I could take the leather off.

 

thought I'd ask before taking it off. Its ac77 2+2 in case that changes anything

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Hi Mate

 

Not sure when the changes occurred but the later cars have the leather bound type.

And NO it is not wood underneath, just boring old steel.

 

Cheers

 

PB

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  • 7 months later...
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I just wanted to add these here, from Facebook Group for Datsun Europe but as with many things on Facebook very hard to find later.

 

Anyway this finish was achieved by adding clear coat. I am in the process of doing another early 240z wheel and like the look.

14955934_10202205248849943_5936726304369507982_n.jpg

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15079071_10202205813264053_1811244434072345968_n.jpg

15085453_10202205247929920_4680034554918088502_n.jpg

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