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Thanks very much! The engine in an L26, but not matching number. It’s been “rebuilt” and I think doesn’t involve any modifications. So it’s a completely standard L26. I intend to run extractors, not the standard exhaust, but at this stage have no modifications planned for the engine itself, and the only mods are the intake, webbers, and exhaust. But a different cam shaft might make those modifications a lot more beneficial, so perhaps we’ll change the cam. I’m pretty comfortable doing engine and mechanical work. I did read some threads here on webbers, and the debate of 40 vs 45s. I’m inclined towards the 45s. But it will be a few years before the engine gets installed. Also curious what people think is the best surface treatment for the cars underside when repainted. Some chassis you see painted on the bottom identical to everywhere else. Others have some sort of black coating, perhaps sound deadening, or rust prevention? Keen to make sure the car has good noise, vibration, and handling qualities, because those aspects give a car a feeling of value.

If you go this way make sure you get the 45 DCOE 152G Weber Carburettor that has the 4 progression holes. You will need to specify what engine specs you have as it will influence what chokes, idle jets, emulsion tubes, and main jets are required in the Webers- best to get advice on this as it becomes expensive to replace all of these.

- If you have to rebuild the L26, look at rebuilding an L28 instead. Depending on your budget for the motor, you can get a decent build out of Pearl Automotive Engineering (VIC). - Buy brand new Triple Webers from Weber Performance (VIC), and go straight for 45s. Even if you put the L26 in, and an L28 is an option later on, atleast you will have 45s already.

Thanks! Some very useful tips there. The Subaru AC is my own idea. The daily is an outback and I like the system in it. I think it might be feasible to install into a Z. The think the hardest parts would be fabricating brackets, mounting, ducts under the dash, and if the heater core, AC core, blower would fit even with those adaptions. Then, wiring for the control module. It would be really nice to have a thermostat controlled heater / AC, with electronic controls not cables on sliders. Looking at generic aftermarket units, they’re not designed for a Z either, judging by comments in this forum. Why pay $3k for new parts for a system that doesn’t fit, when I can get all the bits secondhand from a wrecker for likely a lot less, that maybe doesn’t fit any worse? We shall experiment and explore…. Cheers!

My painter has now requested that we make the 260Z at least a rolling shell or drivable, so it's easy to move into paint booth. So I had a chat with Daniel about the direction of the build, as I was not going to refit the dirty and rusty suspension to the freshly painted chassis. We came to the decision to break the suspension down, have it media blasted and painted in 2k black. ALL the fasteners, brackets, catch's etc were cleaned and wire wheeled, then sent off for electroplating. The braking system can be upgraded later on by Daniel if he so wishes, but for the moment we had all the braking components rebuilt. However Daniel DID want a suitably lowered ride height, so I purchased a set of Z31 Front Koni Yellows, and Lovells 30mm lowered rear springs. The old Pedders 'Comfort Gas' inserts went in the bin! A new rubber suspension bush kit will be installed. Daniel had SW Motorsport rebuild the engine, with some tasty mods. Stewart then shipped it down to us to install. More on this later.

Time for another update! My painter was busy (he always is) but eventually he made progress, an in the space of a couple of weeks, it was in high build primer and the underbody in Nissan 305 LMB!

5 speed manual box (don't know what options exist) 280ZX / S2 bluebird '71B' is a bolt in. You can fit a 71C box from an S13 or R31/2 Skyline, but it requires mods and is not DIY friendly. You will also need to consider your diff ratio, as the auto diff is very tall. Subaru A/C system I've not heard of this. Another option is an AC system from a later 260Z is a bolt in, or you could go Vintage Air. Possibly a body kit (flares, side skirts, air dam, haven't seen a spoiler I like yet.) Each to their own, but none of the bodykits of seen for a Z improve the looks. Possible after market front suspension to eliminate rumor of bump steer. It's not a rumor and it gets worse the more you lower a Z. And it's a significant undertaking to deal with it, and none of the adjustable suspension kits on the market adequately deals with the issue. I suggest you speak to a Zed specialist - either Les Collins or Stewart Wilkins.

https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/1972-datsun-1600-gl-auto/SSE-AD-20635439/ What a ripper!

15x8 0 offset on the rear with 225/50. I am running coilovers with rolled guards but no rubbing at all.

Yep... did cross my mind it could feel like asking how long. But..for whatever plans someone had, if they really regretted not doing something, or nearly didn't do something and are so glad they did... they would be very aware. They mights just not end up being relevant for my plans. Which are still evolving.But they essentially involve: L26 engine Tripple Webbers 5 speed manual box (don't know what options exist) Subaru A/C system Possibly a body kit (flares, side skirts, air dam, haven't seen a spoiler I like yet.) Possible after market front suspension to eliminate rumour of bump steer Thanks very much for the link, info on the fuse box. They sound good. I'm planning to assemble the entire electrical system by itself, as much as possible, on the garage floor, all switches, gauges, lights, electrical components, and verify it works. I definitely have a few rat chewed wires. Insulation must taste nice.

That's a bit of a 'how long is a piece of string' question, as it depends on what you are planning to do... '73 onwards wiring looms have more wires and the plugs are colour coded and not available new. Unless it's been butchered, it's can be reused. FWIW the last '73 I did, we unwrapped the loom, inspected it, fixed any issues, then re-pinned the terminals and re-taped it. I do recommend fitting a new modern fuse box though: https://www.thezstore.com/product/4750/msa-fuse-box-short-pigtail-72-73-240z as the originals are almost always damaged in some way. If you are modifying it in any significant way, I would suggest you 'dry build' it before paint to avoid damaging fresh paint.

So, just starting out with the restoration of our newly purchased RS30. And, while I have some plans for what we’re going to do, I’m curious to learn from others, in particular I’m wondering what mods or restoration steps that in hindsight you wished you done, but didn’t. Maybe like, using new wiring looms than dealing with an old and potentially unreliable and possibly damaged loom, that once is installed isn’t so easy to take out and replace. Or, maybe there are a few specific things you did do, and are very glad you did. Just trying to avoid the same mistakes, or repeat the same good ideas!! Cheers, Richard

Hi Mate - it was just the largest format Outside Decal UV Stabilized commonly used for real-estate boards - that you order through for Office Works. It up to you supply the graphic - just have a chat to office works about the resolution requirements to get a sharp image. Cheers AK

Well. Stopped thinking about buying a Zed and actually did. You might recognise this from the classifieds, it is Linton’s second car he was in the process of working on, after the orange 2+2 he splendidly restored. AKA known as “the Ratson” because it previously came with free rats. 🐀🐀🐀🐀 RS30-00981 260Z 2 seater It will take a while, and be very much one step at a time. We’re competent with mechanical things, can get by on electrical bits and pieces, but welding, body work, sheet metal fabrication, and spray painting we will be learning as we go! Plan is an L26, manual, with some upgrades such as triple webbers, disc brake rear end, and maybe a Subaru A/C system. Yellow, with perhaps a body kit. So after lurking around here for a while now, we’re no longer an imposter because we actually own a Z car! Our second Datsun after the 1600. Cheers, Richard

Not sure on this specific wheel, but the OEM wheels are 14", and I have heard/seen others running 15x8 0 and myself, 16x8 0 with standard brakes. maybe the spokes might be an issue with the wheel? btw, you might get a better response from the Aus or US facebook pages. not a lot of activity on this forum any more

It's #778, easy enough to find VINs with Vic cars if you can see the rego. "An Australian export model which was imported to Papua New Guinea and spent the first 40 years of life in a high country village." Pretty sure it last sold in 2021 too.

https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/1971-datsun-240z-manual/SSE-AD-20627007/ Looks like a good buy. Would also be handy to know the VIN for the database. Seller lists it as a May 1971 so should be <1200.

So I'm looking at a set of Rota Shakotan 15x8 0 offset, but the Rota seller said he feels that the Shakotan rims might have issues clearing factory brake calipers, but he isn't sure...... does anyone here have a set of these wheels and can clarify whether they fit or if they had to purchase smaller sized calipers to make it work?

did they clear standard brake calipers?

Welcome. https://www.efihardware.com/ in Melbourne are the people to speak too. They'll be able to put together a package for you. Bare in mind it won't be cheap. At least $6k+ IMHO if you want reliability & economy on a budget, I'd fit a new Scorcher (Bosch) distributor from Performance Ignition and a set of 38mm Hitachi cabs on the factory twin carburetor manifold. I can put you in touch with someone in Vic to can help you out with this.

i have a filthy under bonnet and was wondering what options there were rather than painting...how can i source something like this for mine?

are you running the 225 on the rear with a 15x8 and what is your suspension set up? Any issues? any pics?

I've got 225/50/15 toyo proxes on mine, I got them maybe 10 years ago and there were still quite a few manufacturers of this size nowadays there's virtually nothing unless I go a semi slick like a bridgestone re71 or yokohama ao52

Hi twosixtyzed I was wondering how you were getting on with this; thanks for providing the update. Its good to hear that you got there in the end. If it feels a bit spongy there might be a little bit of air in there still but it sounds like you are going to take it to a shop for them to have a look at. Did you bleed the new master?? No problems with the help...thats what this place is all about!

Hi i have a 260z 75 model and was always wondering if the interior colour it came with was an original option as I haven't seen any others like it before? Roof lining/interior panels all the same burgundy but the grey passenger door was a home job attempt to likely repair a ripped original burgundy trim..... thoughts?