Bachie

Hey Guys, Definitely has been a while since ive been on. Something in me just told me to jump onto the forum and see whats new.. haha I dont see why it wont fit, but best to ask to be certain I guess. Just not sure on the wiring diagram and/or the colour wiring difference between US and AUS spec. There is an alternate cheaper option for AC only for RHD. Add on Air Conditioning AC Kit for Datsun 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 240Z 260Z 280Z RHD Right Hand Drive (Approximately $1939 AUD) https://autoacsolutions.com/products/ac-kits/add-on-air-conditioning-ac-kit-for-datsun-72-73-74-75-76-77-78-240z-260z-280z-rhd-right-hand-drive/ 1970 1971 1972 1973 Datsun 240Z Add On Air Conditioning with integrated controls for RHD Right Hand Drive Vehicles (Approximately $2155) https://autoacsolutions.com/products/ac-kits/1970-1971-1972-1973-datsun-240z-add-on-air-conditioning-with-integrated-controls-for-rhd-right-hand-drive-vehicles/

Not sure. Best to speak to an engineer with regards to this. If you stick to stock and make it a complete swap as is then you may be able get away with emissions, however if you start to "upgrade" manifolds, cams, turbo etc then I believe you will need to re-test and comply with current emission standards.

Thanks mate! I agree with Scotty. But if you weren't going to go to an RB or another series engine swap for that matter, then going up to an l26 or l28 is much easier to pass. Going to an early RB26 will require that I meet and pass all the emissions and compliance of that year for this engine. Which is going to be a bit if $$$ so I'd rather just go thought the process once

Thanks Scotty! Thats very helpful. I was told that these engine mounts won't pass engineering as it's U shaped and needs to be boxed up on the under side. Once it's out I'll weld on another plate behind it. Also I'll probably need to brave the transmission mounts a little further. Not confident 2 bolts will hold together the new power, but should be simple enough to add extra tabs on the end a have 2 bolts come through from within the cabin into the tunnel. Regarding the gap behind the sump, I'm missing the gusset from transmission to RB block. "Lower brace bracket"

Hi all, Just thought I would share. I last year bought a rusted 1970 240z roller they had also came with an L28 that was mated to i think a 4spd Auto. I had always planned to go down an RB route but couldnt get started till now. So here I am now So anyways, Ive got a bit of a project a head of me but prior to placing it onto rotisserie and sending it off to the blasters, I wanted to mock fit the RB26 and new r34 GTT Gearbox into the car first to see how everything fits and check if anything needed to be modified within the tunnel as I was told engineers could become quiet difficult and picky once the tunnel has been modified. RB needs to come back out anyways as i will require a rebuild. I purchased the swap kit from CX Racing. LINK: https://www.cxracing.com/ESK-OP-RB26-240Z - Oil Pan - Oil Pick Up - Engine Mounts - Transmission Mount So everything arrived by the 2nd week of January (mainly waiting on the RB from Japan). First off, L28 engine+ Auto comes out. The original oil pan bolts are too short to fit through the new oil pan. Ive got some M6 x 30mm bolts to mock fit the sump on. Then i mated the tranmission to the RB (Sandwich plate is not installed as I dont have one yet but im only mock fitting for now) I noticed, there is still a small opening between at the bottom behind the oil pan into the bell housing. The original oil sump covered this area. Not sure on what to do here, either I make something to cover it up or look for a bracket. If anyone knows or can point me to the right direction that would be great! Anyways, engine mount goes on. Left side Right Side Also note. The original oil dip stick will need to be relocated as the oil pan is now towards the rear. Here we goo!! (Got the wife helping ) I gotta admit, this took me some time to get it all in, aligned and mounted properly. Had to rest it on stands, adjust the chains and rotate it every so often to get it in place. Left side Right Side Underneath From the front I do have concerns at the top where cam breathers are. Not sure if the bonnet would latch and shut properly so I'll give that a go over the weekend. I might still be able to rejig the engine around as I have fully secured it all down yet. Transmission mount plate with Nismo gearbox mount. It mounts directly up to the orginal braced mounting locations which is perfect for me So yeah... that its from me for now. It will come back out very soon for sand blasting, panel work and paint. If anyone has any pointers or things to look out for that would be greatly appreciated. P.S experiences with engineering an RB in NSW would be greatly appreciated too! Cheers! Tim

Hi Guys, I just recently completed installing my new AC/Heater/Defrost kit and thought I wouldshare my experience with the group. (Sorry in advance- long post) I am no mechanic, electrician or an a/c specialist of the likes but in saying so, I am always willing to give everything a go and get my hands dirty. I got my car fully road registered (after it being off the road for more than 10 years) in late August and only drove weekends. October long weekend was when it hit me, the heat that is. It was so hot that it go me sweating into my seat and just made me it want to just get home quickly rather than going for the spirited drive lol. I started researching and calling a few places in hopes to get it done before summer, but many places were either booked out until next year or where far too pricey (top price quoted for unseen was $6000). :/ I called up vintage air in and they quoted me the universal gen II kit (AC/Heater/Defrost) for $2500 exc shipping. Was tempted to go down this route, but everything was generic, the compressor bracket needed be frabicated to fit and had to replace the original control panel which I didnt want to do. So I go into contact with Auto AC in the states, they had the complete kit (AC/Heater/Defrost) that was "designed" to work with Datsun 240z/260z and the original control panel. It also comes with all lines, hoses, wiring, brackets and step by step instructions. They also assured me that this was designed for RHD drive Z's too. So as you know it, this is the option i took. https://autoacsolutions.com/products/1974-1975-1976-datsun-260z-add-on-air-conditioning-with-integrated-controls-for-rhd-right-hand-drive-vehicles/ After converting it to AUD+ Shipping, it was roughly $2550. Delivered by FEDEX in 1 week. Ordered on Monday, Arrived following Monday. Beware of the TAX and import fees. That was around $300 or so for me. So now I am at roughly $2850* So the photos are in the order of my progression. By the way, I only had weekends and sometimes only 1 day of the week to work on it as work was picking up and it was coming towards end of the year so, I would say it took me about 3 days in terms of "day" hours to get it done as for the most part, it was deciding on how everything and where everything was going to be placed. There was a lot trial fitment going on. So first few photos were just photos of the contents. Arrived in one big box. Evaporator/Heater Core, Wiring and instructions Compressor, Brackets and belts Condensor The first thing was to drain the coolant, remove the dash and get the old evaporator/heater core and blower motor out. Dashboard and Center Console out Now onto the old evaporator and blower motor Evaporator/Heater Core and blower motor out New Heater/Evaporator core and blower motor Once it was out, I realised how tight this fitment was going to be and I was umming and arring whether I place it on top of the trans tunnel or to the passenger side against the firewall. I couldnt decide just yet so I ended up moving to mounting the compressor bracket and compressor. Instructions, Compressor, Bracket, nuts and bolts Compressor Bracket fitted Compressor and Belt Fitted Next was mounting the condensor. I mocked up some brackets using soft metal then using the mockup I fabricated thicker brackets. Fabricated brackets for the condensor Condensor mounted So now back into the car, (this part took most of my time) a lot of testing fitting with the dashboard on and control panels in, no matter what I did i couldnt seem to get the control panel in to fit properly as it was pushing up against the unit and therefore protruding out of the dashboard. I ended up taking the original control panel apart and by which i meant removing the unessecary metal brackets that made it longer than is required. This got it to fit but only just. This is how it looks without the vents connected at the top and with the ac drain at the bottom connected to the original hose. Once I figured out the placement, i removed it and added sound deadening and insulation Next was connecting the heater hoses. I tried to fit the new heater valve to where the original holes were in the firewall, but it did not fit well as the hoses inside the cabin needed to be routed to the passenger side and even if I still managed to install it, the clutch pedal would touch it every time when pressed. As a result I ended drilling to holes to the left near where the original AC holes were. As for the heater hoses, I ended up going to supercheap auto and bought some hoses that were already pre-shaped and just cutting them to length and then fit. Heater Valve and Heater Hoses (inside cabin to Heater Core) Connecting other end of the heater valve with L shaped heater hoses (goes from heater valve, routed behind engine and fitted to a 90degree brass fitting. Next step was to connect the AC hoses. The kit came with the hoses that had fittings already pre-pressed to the them and with some extra fittings to change the setup. I ended up only using one of the hose that was already pre-pressed and ended up buying different fittings from repco as I required different angles and where the charge ports were located it was facing the fender wall with about an inch of room to allow for charging. Tools used to press the fittings onto hose. Costed $180. I ended up relocating one of the charge ports a little further down and angled towards the engine as opposed to the fender wall. Relocating one of the charge ports as the one that came in the kit, when installed onto the compressor, the port faces the fender wall with only 1 inch of work space (not ideal) so this new one faces the engine instead. See following photo. Connected all the AC hose fittings to the respective parts. Fitted the hoses to the compressor. Condensor hoses fitted. The drier was mounted on the driver side fender wall. Drier Fitted to the driver side fender wall. It came with a binary switch but because I also wanted to activate my dual electric radiator fans for when the AC is turned on, I bought a trinary switch and installed that instead. Here is what it looks like with AC and Heater Hoses connected. All the other push/pull rods to go hot/cold vent/defrost are all connected on either side to the original panel. Lastly, it came down to the wiring and connecting it to the control panel. Following the instructions it was actually straight forward and done within less than 5 mintues. Connected the wiring according to the instructions. I ended up creating a female plug for this side afterwards. Connecting the wiring harness and the tacho to get power and ignition for testing for leaks (later). Connected air tubes and vent. After testing it all, turning on the engine, checking it for coolant leak inside and out operating the blower motor. It was all OK. Everything reinstalled and dashboard is back in. So all up, it costed me just over $3000 -AC/Heater/Defrost Kit (including shipping and Taxes) -AC hose Crimp Kit -AC hose fittings -Heater Hoses Thanks for Viewing all. This was just my experience and what it costed me. I am sure you can all probably find something cheaper or have better methods of installing but all in all, I finally got there and it is working. Thanks for viewing! P.S ive also attached a video of when I was testing the unit too. 20201212_190748.mp4

Thank you for the kind words! To be honest, I think that was one of the easier projects to do (repairing the dash) and honestly I reckon anyone can do it. Just need about 80 bucks and a lot if elbow grease! if you're interested I can share the details or perhaps I can post a short how to (just scared i'll get flamed by others lol) I have always been around cars growing up. Well the car as it is should be ready for an inspection soon, might book it in next week once I repair the tacho. Just so I can drive it for now. Next will be security, so an alarm system and central locking. Might redo the all the key locks to make it 1 key rather than 3 different keys. Lol But will keep you guy's updated!

Lol! Probably "I would like to give everything a go" be a better choice of words.. But thanks!

Hi All, Just wanted to introduce myself. My name is Tim. I am no professional mechanic or anything of the like, only just like to get my hands dirty and dabble in some home DIY projects I bought my Datsun 260z 2+2 September last year and have been slowly working at getting her back on the road. By looking at the papers it came with, the last time it was registered was in 2010 in VIC. The car was rust proofed and resprayed by the previous owner back in early 2017 and only done a few bits of restoration since. Day of purchase Since I've owned it I have down the following: - Replaced the radiator as the original one was punctured and also added dual electronic fans as it was missing the clutch fan. (Radiator and fans came together) - There was weird sound coming from the front left passenger side when wheel was turning, so I replaced the front wheel bearings all together with so. (Yes thats me in the best PPE :P) - At the same time, ive replaced the studs with 50mm studs to give extra thread for aftermarket wheels. - Got Round Top twin SU carby - It was leaking from the rear main seal, so I took the engine out of the car and replaced the rear main seal. Although I dont have photos, but I purchased a VRS gasket kit so all gaskets have been replaced. - Welsh plugs are replaced with brand new brass welsh plugs - - Saw a bit of blue on the block so i assumed it was the factory colour so i cleaned the block and resprayed it. - Since it was out, I took the opportunity to machine the flywheel - Replaced the clutch with Clutch Industries Heavy Duty Clutch - Took the header off and cleaned the block (sorry don't have photos but you will see it in person) - VRS gasket kit. So all gaskets replaced. Once the engine was done, I turned my attention towards the interior. - The dashboard was severely tired. So I took it out and and spent a few days repairing it. Center console, seats and old mats taken out. The floor pan had the original sound deadening as well the sound deadening and rust proofing done by previous owner. I also removed that because I wanted to redo it all again. (Sound deadening took me a while to remove :P) - Sprayed Heavy duty rust proof oil (which is an orange to red in colour), left it overnight. Cleaned it up and sprayed a black rust proof enamel. - Rolled out new sound deadening with great coverage. Drivers side, passenger side and transmission tunnel. - New heat insulation. I used it to cut out the template for the carpet as well which saved me a great deal of time. Used the same template to cut out the new carpet. (Its one piece) Removed the old sagging head liner (dont know what happened here), pillars and lining going across the front. Have replaced the head liner with new sound deadening (sorry forgot to take a photo) and new leather vinyl. So now im putting everything else back together. Ive replaced many of the other bits bobs along the way like speedo cable, thermostat housing (and thermostat), all plugs filters, brake fluids etc have all been replaced drained and refilled. Car runs great! Just need to work out my electronics. Not sure where I am going wrong with my tacho as its hovers over 500rpm when started but it doesnt rev all seem like it is not getting a signal or reading a current from the coil at all. Not sure if if 75 260z 2+2 read the same as a 240z (current) or like the later models do signal (just encountered it yesterday) but will continue my research. But that is me and my z for now, Sorry for long post and but thanks for viewing and reading. Hopefully I can meet some of you in the near future! Have a great day! Cheers! Tim