HomeBuiltByJeff

Thanks for that. Mine were way too far gone to have any idea of what they were originally suppose to be like. Looks like I wasn't far off the mark, I just made mine a bit short. Yeah, it looks like I got lucky

This week I stripped down my P90a head to see what I am working with. I also tackled my most difficult rust repairs to date.

What is the benefit of the N42 head over the P90a? Does it increase the compression? I am planning on running triple webers with this build. They both look like good options for shops. Are there any decent engine shops on the South side of Sydney (my laziness trying to save an hour driving ). A swap could definitely be on the cards. Can I keep running the standard valves with a clean and a lap? I assume they would have to be the matching N42 valves. So I assume the Kameari chain tensioner is something to offset a shaved head. Overall does my plan sound worth while? As I said, for a fun street car that I don't hate driving because it is so temperamental.

Up to now I have been using a 4" grinder on the welds and, probably due to my birdsnest welding, there is generally a lot to grind back

Sorry, I should have been clearer. Yes I was planning up upping compression. My idea, is to try to do a basic rebuild, with a few relatively simple upgrades, that others can watch, and potentially do at home themselves.

Hey guys, Some of you may have been watching my silly videos pulling apart my L28. I am starting to formulate a plan for the rebuild of it. I am not looking for a balls to the wall track pig, but I am keen on doing some simple mods. I have been reading Datsunzgarage and I have begun to formulate a plan to go forward. I currently have an F54 block with a P90a head. I want to keep the crank, rods, and possibly the flat top pistons as they appear to be in good condition. I am planning to get the head shaved, as mentioned on Datsunzgarage so I know it requires the cam to have shims under it to keep the chain tension in spec. I obviously also plan on replacing the bearings, gaskets, etc, but planning on just going with stock items. I also need to replace the cam anyway, as it has a bit of corrosion I am not happy about. This is where I am needing some advice. I want this car to be streetable, I am not looking for a super lumpy track pig. I want to try to retain my valves just clean them up and lap them. There is a small, but noticeable wear line on the last rocker (others seem pretty good), which lines up with the most corroded cam lobe. Do I need to get all new lifters with a new cam? Is getting them resurfaced a more cost effective option. I was advised that if I did shave the head and raise the cam, that I would need longer valves? I am wondering, if I get the head shaved, can I then get a cam with higher lift and just add more lash? Basically my whole aim, is to do 99% of it myself at home. I realise I will need a machine shop to shave the head, and possibly get them to thoroughly clean the head and block. Is there anything else I MUST do? Also to note, I am thinking I will run triple webers, and an exhaust to be determined. Let me know if I am stupid, or if there is a better way. Jeff

Interesting. I wear out the solid grinding discs pretty fast when I am grinding back welds. Do these last? It looks like sandpaper to me, and I went through half of a flap disc in 10 mins today?

I have not seen them? I know most grinding discs I have used have a mesh grid construction, is that what you are refering to?

I actually think the grinder caused more heat into the panel and more warping than the welder did. I am biting the bullet and getting a 5 inch grinder this week and also some super coarse discs. As someone commented on Facebook, the bigger the disc and the faster it takes away material, the less heat that is transferred.

You could probably get 3 phase connected for less than that though...

You have to be quick when you see a good car you have to pounce. My 911 was advertised for 20mins and I was the 3rd caller. I used my judgement and transferred a deposit then and there over the phone. My 240z was bought and back at my house 2 days after it was advertised. 'Those who hesitate are lost'

Nice project you have there. Hopefully it is not going to look like this when you are done. Good luck with the sale, I would love a 2 post lift, but I don't have 3 phase either.

Dave, I got my car with the engine stripped and I am after all of the nuts and bolts for the accessories, so if you want it for parts as well, maybe we can go halves? I am in Bowral, so not too far from you.

Sweet. I will see how it goes, when I have to start lining everything up properly. If it is too far out I will hit you up. What I do need is an old dead engine someone has lying around, as mine was stripped, but didn't come with all of the nuts and bolts. They are not easy to replace.

This week I tear down the bottom end of my L28 and repair some rust holes in my front cowl.

Definitely not serious. I do appreciate people doing DIY, but that is another level

That looks like a very nice, tuned length manifold

Looking at the extent of that cage, I think it is now basically a tube frame chassis, wearing a Z dress...

Ok, that is something I have to look into then. I did read on one site that said that was the difference between the P90 and the P90a, but just because it is on the internet, definitely doesn't mean it is true

It is a P90a sorry. I will have to check the lifters to see how they are. I will check out that thread now, thanks.

I did try to rotate it with a rattle gun, but it just tightened the bolt, it wouldn't actually turn the crank. Now I have pulled it apart, I am going to do a full rebuild, so we will see how it goes.

Good to know with the heat levels. I went off of some dodgy backyard youtube video, as I couldn't find anything more current. I will keep that in mind for the rest of the repairs. The head is a 90a. What one of the YouTube comments mentioned was that as it has hydraulic lifters, it would need oil pressure to get full tension on the valves. My plan now is to do a full rebuild. I just need to think about how far I want to go. I at least want to put in a mild cam. Basically I am looking to do something that is still streetable, but getting a bit more out of it. I plan on keeping it naturally aspirated (love that noise ), with some sort of triple carbs (brand to be determined). Any suggestions are more than welcome. I am looking for a nice build, that I can do myself, and that others can reasonably replicate.

I did tack and cool, tack and cool. I have done it a multitude of different ways, and from my (admittedly limited) experience, if you are doing a large repair on a flat panel, it is always going to warp a bit. I did run some short beads in sections, as often even at the lowest setting, the tacks would blow through. It was easier with a bit of movement, to spread the heat and stop the blow through. The beads were still probably only 2 second welds on one spot, cool, move to the other end for the next one and so on. I will be doing plenty more of that sort of welding in the next few weeks, so I should hopefully be able to get some footage instead of stuffing up the camera again

That all makes great sense. I wish I had read this earlier as I definitely would have tried using compressed air in each of the cylinders, but I have now taken the head off. It doesn't look too bad in there. The bores look OK at this stage, just a hone may sort them out. There doesn't appear to be any valve contact with the pistons, so over all it looks good. The main concern is with all of the water galleries which are clogged with white powder. I assume it is mostly dried coolant etc, but it definitely needs a thorough flush out. I am now thinking I will do a complete rebuild. Like you have said, it is a really simple engine, and a replacement is cheaply available if I screw it up The video is out now so have a look and let me know what you guys think.

This week I tackle stretched sheet metal with the bonnet repairs, and I start pulling apart the engine.