aircobra

if they're rusted off, i figure not .... can you mig wed the bastards on?

not sure if 240s came with these https://www.hemmings.com/blog/2014/08/06/better-perhaps-than-new-jeffrey-maders-1972-datsun-240z/ but i'm missing the little metal shield on top of the radiator, so i figured i'm going to get pinged at the RWC it also probably improves air flow for the very hot days?

i think there 's 3 of them , all for holding in the frame from the inside https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0743/9051/products/20150812_094551_large.jpg?v=1442269121 what material is the frame? looks like it was plated and then welded on. which means the plating got burned off and they started rusting on day #1

the story is that in the most rusty z in the galaxy( that;s my car), even the little tab in the rear quarter window has rusted odd. has anyone attempted to fabricate and weld one on? i can't workout if there are sstainless or chrome plated frames? https://www.autopartone.com/products/72-73-datsun-240z-oem-rear-quarter-window-glass-left are they brazed on? thanks

rebuilt with new pistons, seals,etc. ready to go best offer?

does anyone know whether they're supposed to run through the central heater control enclosure or just along the tunnel a pic would be super thanks and yes gav, searched the forum an got zip

i got a set from zcardepot that look the same

after 45 years, most of them are rooted. this is becuase they're just plain mild steel, without the various coatings and seals that are common today. they're basically bicycle cables. would you ride you bike with 45 y.o cables? my solution - send them off to a place called con-wire to be replicated - no friction at ll.

thanks gongz. off to ebay for the switch.

search of the 'net shows that there should be a toggle switch in the midde of the dash. but my holes are all blanked out? was it not standard in AUS cars?

hmm, not that much. i saw mckay have 8.8 mm plain vacuum hose, just not sure if its the right size

i'm sure everyone knows this guy https://www.flickr.com/photos/62957688@N08/16957625017/in/album-72157656616209371/lightbox/ i didn;t notice that the switch is meant to be mounted with the short end from the bolt hole towards the front of the car so i've bolted it in backwards eg with the long end first. the FSM (BR- shows that inside its symmetrical and in fact the hole is shown to be right in the centre however it is leaking from the front plug where its threaded into the body ( not from the flare nut) which may mean that the inside threads and plugs are slightly different depths and its not seating fully against the copper washer does anyone know?

not braided, but should work with the coathanger trick? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10mm-ID-Silicone-Vacuum-Hose-Black-Select-any-length-up-to-30-Metres-/261348199642?hash=item3cd9910cda:g:TLcAAOxyVaBSoeUm i measured my one to be 10mm ID, but the hose is in pretty bad shape, so it could have shrunk or expanded. what does everyone else have?

mine are shot, had to rip them up to get the rusty shaft out. the itnerior foam looks straighforward enough, but it looks like the outer sheel is made from 2 x pieces of normal vynil welded together. i noticed the reporduction ones are simply stiched together

mine's a standard 180 http://oi33.tinypic.com/uu8ap.jpg so i was wondering if can push the shafts in enough to clear the bolts

looking for the small plasic knob that hold the clear cover in place and the small meatl bracket that holds the wiring in place, like this https://s30zproject.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/p1020148-kopie.jpg

how does it actually mount? i can see the screwas at the back. is it supported by just the face plate at the front?

just about to put it back (once i get the new mount) and the fsm only shows the entire assembly being removed?

i realise they are pricey, so just need the overall dimensions of the box sot hat i can work out which unit will fitcould you r could you run a ruler over one pls?

did you get your bushes from zcardepot with the energy brand? if so, can you tell me how long the swaybar link bolts are ( the hing with 4 rubber bots that connect the swaybar to the susp.arm) are?

send me your # and i ll send the photos

does anyone have this . i think i'll just stick in the latest blutooth set, cause i can;t find any reasonably priced radios

is the fuel tank strap held by 2 nuts per side? is that so you can control the tension on straps. are you sure about that? my one only had one nut per strap

i am sure its easier the 2nd time around

thanks all for your help - if there was a virtual beer, i would buy a round this is how the saga ended last nite ( post mounting first hinge and first bar) i ended up using a "d" shackle to steady the bottom of rod into the recepticle where it would go once in place eg parallel to the bottom bar sat down in from of the car and using my bare hands rotated the rod using a weightlifting squat type of a manouver, while pushing the hinge backwards and down to meet the rod slipped into the opening and bob's your uncle you definitely needs hands and arms of steel to do it this way. i was jiggling around with straps, rope , jimmy bars, vice grips, etc and then i saw jesus 3rd worst job of the restoration