240z71

432R had the relocated ignition barrel, 432 had the conventional one

Hey guys Price drop to $220 going to melbourne in the coming weeks so could deliver depending on location in Melbourne. Thanks

If someone who has done this is willing to share what is a rough cost including labour and all that Of a block with said RB crank ?

Hey guys Im putting the diamond vinyl kit that was in my 240z up for sale. im not going to use as im going a different route with the car. Its not perfect and each piece isnt immaculate the strut tower pieces have some little rips but i imagaine you could glue them closed when there installed. Im sure theres some product that would clean them up better but i just gave them a quick wipe. Some pieces are slightly darker than others but there 45 years old and would have seen some sun i imagaine. I would feel fine using them if my car needed them and feel they wouldnt look out of place in a well presented Z. The second last photo is of an imperfection in the trans tunnel piece that gets covered by the console but thought i would show it. As for price im open to offers so just send me a PM Thanks Matt

Hey guys Gauges are no longer for sale Thanks

PM sent alvis36

Hey guys The heater control panel and the choke trim piece have been sold. That leaves the series 1 manual centre console and the 240z brake booster as well as the set of 260z gauges (clock is not avaliable) still for sale. Feel free to make me an offer on anything you want Thanks Matt

Steering wheel with the horn pad and the clock are No longer for sale

Hey guys Ashtray / fuse box lid is NO longer avaliable Thanks Matt

Hey guys Price drop to $280. Thanks

Hey guys Some more photos of the ashtray / fuse box lid Thanks matt

Hey guys The twin choke mechanism as well as the knobs are NO longer for sale. The trim piece that houses this is still avaliable. Thanks

Thanks for clarifying about the gauges Gav. As for the fusebox / astray lid piece there is no damage what so ever and is in very good condition. Would possibly seperate if the price is right. Feel free to PM if interested Also the battery tray is NO longer for sale. Thanks Matt

Some more photos of the heater control panel

Hey guys Have decided to put some stuff up for sale. All of this stuff came off my 71 240z that im restoring and will not go back on the car as im turning the car into a tarmac rally / hillclimb car. Only item not off my 240z is the set of gauges which are from a very early 260z and could be the same as the late 240z's? 1.series 2 steering wheel. Horn button was cracked but i glued it and it clicks onto the steering wheel fine. And stays on 2. Twin choke style manual center console Has fusebox cover. Twin choke knobs and the trim that goes around the twin chokes with the switch. All in good condition with no cracks. Only flaw is on the underside of the twin choke trim piece where a tiny little locating knob has broken off. Doubt this makes a difference to the function but though i would mention it. 3. Rust free battery tray. Has some light pitting but is perfectably usable. 4. Twin choke setup with black plate. The wires for the chokes are shot but the hand throttle cable is is good condition. I imagaine you can fix the choke cables quite easily. 5. Heater control panel with no cracks. 6. 71 240z brake booster. In good working condition. I put it in primer when i intended to use it but its sat like that since 7. Set of very early 260z gauges. Starts at 20km if that means anything. Clock worked when i tested it as well. I have not listed prices and im open to offers. So feel free to make offers and ask questions. Glad to help where i can. Please no stupid offers though as ive done research and know roughly what things are worth. Donations will be made to the forum as well. Thanks, Matt

Hey guys Up for sale is the spare wheel well out of my 71 240z. No longer need it with the route im taking the car. It has surface rust as shown in pictures but has not even pitted and with a wire wheel would come up perfectly usable. Im located in Echuca (Vic) but if its not urgent often go to melbourne so could arrange something. Im asking $350 which will include a donation to the site Thanks, Matt

Hey locklock I have a 71 booster in working condition if your interested? Pm if interested Thanks, matt

+1 As someone who has dived right into rust repairs on my 240z. I would use that rail as an indication to the rest of the shell, at first mine didnt look that bad but then i unspot welded the beaver panel, roof,drip rails , floors, rear tool compartment and got into things like the dog legs, firewall, wheel arches and heaps of other places. To cut this short these cars rust from inside out and goes alot deeper then what appears on the surface. This was also all in a car that had been locked away for many moons indoors.

What's the go with the stitch welding they have done on it, not the conventional 1" on 1" off, they have also done it just about everywhere instead of just engine bay/ strut towers. Any benefits?

Those rounded corners should help alot compared to square edges with heat dispersion. Looks like it will need proping up around the edges to get back in the right shape?

Thanks man, yeah I just used a gas MIG and did lots of tacks moving around the panel. Having the aluminium strips shaped to the right shape is a necessity and once you have them you'll find that a fare few cars have basically the right shape it's just nit picking to make it less work doing final shaping once it's in the car. It also makes it easier to find a donor panel the smaller your sunroof is because you only need a little section to have the right shape but with mine I needed a 600 x 800mm panel so that narrows the donor car selection down a lot. Also if anyone is thinking of giving this a shot feel free to message me because I could go a lot more in detail and show some other things that I did and solutions to some of the problems I had.

Yeah I think that the joggle join is the best way to go about it. I just cut mine roughly to size and then just kept grinding off little bits at a time till I had a good gap all around and butt welded it, took a very long time to get it to fit good. I think for it to be an easier process than what I did it should be a composite panel and you make ribs that glue on to the original roof that also provide something for the new bit to sit on and make it all "flow" from new bit to old bit better. Do you have a roof skin with a sunroof?

Yeah its a good idea that the community needs. Running ribs could work.Heres what i did (bare with me). For starters i cut away the remaining edge of my roof which was rusty and jaggered from where it was cut to install the sunroof. This made it so i had nice square edges to weld to. Next i brought some aluminium strips of metal that were strong enough to hold there shape but weak enough to bend by hand. Using these i found a Z with a good roof and moulded the aluminium strips in different places over the roof. Then took these strips of aluminium to a wreckers and put them on top of different roofs to see which was the best fit. Ended up being a 97 ford laser and so i cut out what i needed and headed home. Cut it to size and proped up what was left of the original roof to shape and place the patch in then welded it. This gave it a farely good shape but it took a bit of time to get to the stage were i could sit the aluminium strips on my roof and they were pretty much perfect. As far as proping the roof up whilst glue or welding was taking place that is what i did and it worked really good dont know if it would work with glue though. One idea is make it so the patch panel your talking about runs almost to the edge of the skin and less of the original roof is used which might reduce warping? I think one of the reasons mine worked is because the hole was so big that i was welding closer to the edges of the skin which gave it more rigidity and thus less warping. Overall there is a few hours work in here but as i did it myself it was free and all up cost me $10. This was the first panel beating type job i ever tackled (im 17) so its worth just having a crack if your gonna replace the skin anyway

Hey guys Though i would put my imput as i recently patched my sunroof. The problem i see with this and it might not apply to everyone but as my sunroof was quite large the edges around had sagged out of shape due to stress. If i had of gone ahead and glued a panel like said panel i would have ended up with a valley where they meet. I dare say alot of peoples roofs have slightly gone out of shape from years of having sunroofs and would find it hard to butt a panel up and have it flow like an oem skin? This is one advantage of welding a piece in as it becomes one bit of metal again a be shaped as one piece not two Just food for thought

Sorry about that. In short i am asking weather its alright that the middle two exhaust ports are not the same size as the others in diameter ? As well as if theres a way to tell if its had some porting?. Ive asked Gordon but he worked on so many that he couldn't remember details which is understandable. He did say he remembers doing some engine work on it but there's a chance luke did a bit of it as well. Don't suppose you know anything about the car/luke?