juz0

The pins are about 263mm long from end to end. If yours are the same or close then consider them yours buddy!

Hello I just stripped down some suspension assemblies from a 76 260z 2+2. Instead of throwing my left over bits first I thought I'd chuck a post up to see if anyone wanted them. I've got: a full set of wet leg inserts that need new seals a pair of near new spindle pins and keeper pins. they just tapped out! a pair of front calipers that need new seals full set of standard height springs. They are rusty but still usable I can post any of this stuff (at your cost) or you can come pick it up (I live SE of Brisbane). If nobody wants them I'll chuck them out on the 23rd of August, so thats next friday. send me a PM if your interested Cheers Justin

HAHA so true! it'll end up like on top gear where it flipped over going around every corner I think like most of the wagon/sedans they started out as auto's. like toyota chasers. Those late model stagea's that Agno mentioned are pretty cool too. Like he said though you'd probably need a turbo or supercharger to make it special. then fit the paddle shift kit and it will be sweet

Buy a cube! then get the super charger kit for it I think there is a C35 Laurel for sale on carsales too. that would be pretty cool although getting parts if it broke would be a mission... being 1 of 2 in the country

nothing too exciting happening with the car. I went rust hunting and now i have a lot of work to do.... I need to replace both door skins, dog legs behind the doors, both sides of the roof above the doors have holes along the length of them, hatch slam panel rusted out underneath and around the top of the tail light panel. Also my hatch is pretty much rotted out around all four corners where the glass goes... so the same old story from what i've read in other peoples build threads. on a more positive note, I've fitted my Kemari front air dam and my work wheels finally arrived! 15x8 -6 offset O disk model so it has 96mm of dish! and here is what the car looks like at the moment. That green fender is from a 2+2. I didn't think it would fit but it does! so for now its fit the fender mirrors and more rust repairs. Any suggestions for what colour to paint the car? I have been throwing the idea of getting the wheel hoops painted black to look like star road edition equip 03's but I was sorta leaning towards getting the car painted orange I think its 918 orange, like the Bingo Sport 432 http://www.wintel.co.jp/vcs_photo/photo1/632-1_000056-1.jpg I'm not a huge fan of shiny shiny so it might look pretty cool

Otomoto might have a few more in at the moment. I bought one off him at the start of the month

your doing some awesome repairs there! what are you using to shape all your patches?

someone should buy these! only a small sum I'm guessing of around $15k landed http://page11.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/n127034572

looks good! you just get your stuff off ebay?

Thanks for the advice! ive read about their sensitivity with fuel pressures. For now its running so its easy to move around to work on. When its time to acutally get on the road for proper testing I'll have at least a guage in there. Its got a low pressure carb fuel pump that supposedly puts out 4.5psi max but wont know for sure until I put a guage in to see how much pressure I'll loose with the orifice/return hose. As for the velocity stacks when I was looking I couldnt find much. The auxiliary venturi finish flush with the front of the carb so I cant use slip ins. I want to get longer maybe 3 - 4 inch. I have since found a place in the uk that sells them for a decent price. So another purchase to make down the track! For now im focusing on rust repairs again fun fun

nice sounding turbo 260z interesting flutter sound! i wish my s15 sounded like that http://youtu.be/7zK-i2dRbPo

I'm hoping to get the car test drive ready today so I can see how the car acts under load. I'm using the stock dcom jetting except it has aftermarket 33mm chokes. not genuine items being an odd size but oh well, see how it goes. that video was hilarious! I think you were lucky enough to even see two Gav! for those interested. I'm not 100% sure if these are the stock jetting sizes for the dcom but from reading various forums and people selling them online they all have the same jetting. Here they are Main: 138 Air corrector: 190 Emulsion tube: F64 Chokes: 33 (32mm seems to be stock size) Idle jet: 59F21 Pump jet: 35

that engine stand could be the start of a tubular chassis! just keep welding bits on until you have a complete car you going to run with the efi or put the carbs back on?

wow i wonder if any of those still exist. anyway small update. I was having heaps of trouble getting the triples idling right. heaps of lean popping out the exhaust and nothing really seemed to help. I know my idle jets are way too small so I've ordered new ones to try out. For now though I used a handy tool called Colortune by a company called Gunson. Its a spark plug with a glass view hole so you can see the colour of the explosion. Pretty much just adjust the carbs until the colour is orange then lean it out until it turns blue and that should be where you want it. running rich adjust to where the flame is a constant blue colour worked well. idles nice and smooth and rev's up nicely too. here's what my set up looks like now. I've used some of the original hard lines from the efi system and then run the hosing off that. The tee fittings ontop of the carbs are OER fittings. All the weber tee fittings are for the side fuel port but mine are not drilled through so these work a treat and I can still have the filter around the banjo bolt too. Also have a 2mm orifice in the return hose. I don't have a gauge in the fuel line yet but i'm sure thats enough to keep the pressure up in the system.

I found the front a lot easier than the rears. I changed the whole lot with poly a while ago now. I only had trouble with the steering rack bushes not fitting properly on the drivers side. build up of crud around the steering rack. cleaned it up and had to shave a bit off the sides of the poly bush and all sweet. heating the area the bush is going to go into might help too if you've only got a bench vice to use. I bought a little 6 tonne press off ebay to do mine. only around $100

nothing too exciting lately. been doing wiring clean up and started on rust repairs. fixed up the fenders in the usual places. ended up replacing the lh fender because mine had been in an accident and all crumpled up at the front. they used a lot of bog to get it back to original! when i changed the fender I realised the indicators were in different positions. So I had to move one. I liked the lower position from the lh fender so i went with that

your pressing the pins back in? I'd be more inclined to pull it out and check it all. I had to get them pressed out but putting them back in should only need a tap with a rubber/plastic hammer. Any local engineering or hydraulic/earthmoving equip shop should be able to help you out though

I'd get your mechanic to drop the diff oil and take a look for bits as a start

This is just for reference sake. If you ever come across 59F21 Idle Jets out of a weber 40 DCOM they have 4x 1.1mm air holes and 0.59mm fuel hole. They run lean. On mine the mixture screws need to be 3 turns out before it will even start!

and thats exatly what it was, thanks Scoota. one of them wasn't sitting all the way down. it picked up a little bit on the edge and got stuck in side.

Well it starts! Exhaust is really loud. Middle carb has a hissing sound coming out the back of the choke?? Time to pull it off and have a look I guess

I'll be in for a second group buy if it happens. or if Potter260 makes a batch?

Air rams arrived on friday. looking pretty cool. I also got blue UNI Filter socks for them Wiring for head lights is nearly done! its all hidden away under the RH side inspection panel my main troubles with the wiring loom was the butchered headlight wiring. A factory double relay was fitted in and had me buggered for a while. Later found out after chasing it through many wiring diagrams that it was the passing relay! for flicking the hi beams. It was added in by the PO but now its gone. Happy days. making progress on re wiring/ cleaning up the front end now.

Looks good mate! that metal paint cleaned up the inside and engine really well. I'll have to give it a go. Nice 180 you have too

whoever converted the wiring loom to run the L28 needs a good kick in the head. twisted together wires, wires spliced left right and center, bits of 280zx loom here and bits of 260z there... wtf?! sorted out most of the engine bay side but under the dash is a mess too... fingers crossed it all works when done!