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Nice car mate. Is that the topstage spoiler or the jdm copy that topstage makes? looks good in CF! you should really change those fuseable links, good to get it going not good if it burns to the ground... also nice P1's on the s15, dont see many sets of those anymore. I'm running gtr32 wheels on mine. best wheels for an s15 i rekon haha

Thats damn cheap though $500 plus good tires. I was quoted $200 per wheel to widen steelies to 8 inch. Will you need flares with those sizes you plan on getting?

Thanks Scoota! I'll check that when I get to that point. I really need to buy the weber tuning book...

It is but it isnt?! I guess thats why the changed it to Z chassis later on when silvia came out. heat shield is finished for now. had to cut slots for the dcom diaphragm pumps so not sure how effect it will be DCOM's have lots of extra stuff on them and mine are all orientated from the RH side for idle stops etc. These tabs were in the way of the linkage So they had to go! now to tap the holes for idle stop bolts and finish the linkage set up. Anyone have insight into float settings? 2 are set at 7.5mm and one is set at 8.5mm. The matched pair are the ones set differently... I did some reading around and found that they had different float heights from factory depending on when they were made. Not sure how true that is since it came from various forums in europe. I was thinking of setting them at 8.5 and go from there.

love the wheels! i was trying to get a set of those for ages. where did you get them from?? I remember option 1 was selling them but they never got more in when I wanted some.. good job on the rust repairs! I've only done a few on mine but with my gasless mig it burns way too hot and blasts holes everywhere. I haven't sanded back the rear end on mine... magnet doesnt stick in some places so it's not going to be pretty... keep up the good work

Sounds like I'll be hunting down a chaser in the future then. love the s15 but time for something different. thats some damn good tuning on your s15 if you get that mileage out of it. I need to retune mine... its been... 5 years haha. hmmm i wouldnt say the 260 is a clean base. its got rust in most of the usual places. hatch is full of rust! you open it and rust falls out the bottom. It has however had the passenger side floor and frame rail replaced. Interior needs to be gutted and wiring is a giant mess. I'll take a pic later

Nice! you find they are a pretty good car overall? I love them but havent had much to do with them.

dat240z thanks for the advice too. I'll probably end up with 2 cars then. oh well! I'm not going to complain about that! CrosS13 how long you had your s15 for? i've had mine for nearly 6 years now so I'm kinda over driving it around. 6 speed is finally starting to annoy me.... I can't imagine jzx100's being any worse than an R33 on fuel... those things drink! To me I don't care about fuel price because I'll have an awesome car on another note I was just running through the engine bay wiring and my headlight circuits have been butchered and spliced all over the place so I'm going to rewire that and tidy up the rest. I was going to use this diagram to work off. I found it on Classic Z Cars and its easy enough for my diesel fitter brain to follow. Unlike work there is no auto sparky to come and wire it up for me. Should be interesting

awesome pics! spewin I forgot it was on.... your cars looking awesome zac!

hmm guess i'll have to figure something out with the brake line then. i'm not a fan of it sitting on the lca. Gav I see what you mean. I thought about this for a while too. Another idea I had was sell/swap the s15 for a jzx100 chaser. We don't have kids yet so when that happens I'll at least have a 4 door. Planning for the future haha.

hello and thank you! I'm not exactly sure what brand they are to be honest. They have made in south australia on the back of them? I've got a set of work equip 03's on the way for it so i wont be using them after it's been painted. exhaust was fun to make. I bought all the piping from qld diesel spares and the rest from a local muffler shop. only cost around $250 to make. Super budget exhaust I really want one of these systems though. through import monster its about $3.5k delivered http://www.importmonster.com.au/view?url=http://page4.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/d135841427&thumb=http://auctions.c.yimg.jp/img375.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/users/1/5/0/4/asunaro_hasegawa-thumb-1349928063751788.jpg&title=Z 240ZG S30 S31Z 48 Set So I didnt get a hell of a lot done today but ended up making a rough heat shield. only thing i'm not sure on is mounting it. I've got it mounted on the bottom carb mounting bolts but with the soft mounts it does jiggle around a little. Is there where most mount from? i'm just worried it'll break off one day from bouncing around and these turned up today! also found after dropping the car on its wheels that the rear lh brake hose sits on the lower control arm. The other side is fine because that flat part on the lca is on the bottom. was there a left side with the flat section to the bottom of the control arm??

Hello everyone! I thought i better pull my finger out and actually start my build thread instead of just lurking around the forum buying peoples leftover parts for my car. Basically I bought the car at the start of 2010 from a member here. It didnt really have a home so it sat at my folks place for a year and a half. I did small bits and pieces there but nothing major. Finally bought a house with a double lock up and two car outside undercover. So my cars live in thar garage while my wifes car stays outside Ok for the car the main focus is just a fun streeter. Once its up and running I'll sell my s15 and it will be my daily. So this is no race car build. Ideally for me once its all finished it will have a slightly worked L28 with ITB's. I've got an F54 P90 engine in bits waiting to be put together for it. ITB set up is being worked on by Millenium Motorsports. I went for the hard road using a weber manifold and gtr32 ITB's. By the time its done it would have nearly cost as much as a set up from some mobs online so I wouldnt recommend it unless you have all the gear to do it yourself. I bought the ITB's with adapter plates from a guy in the states. I made a basic CAD drawing of the adapter plate if anyone wants it? Right now though I've got a stock F54 N42 engine in there with triple DCOM's. not running yet but it will be soon! The dcom's aren't a matched set but all the jets, chokes and progression holes are the same so fingers crossed it's all good. The PO didn't run them on his car but the guy he bought them off did so we'll see. quick run down of what i've done so far: Rust repairs around the front end replaced bushes for urethane ones replaced spindle pins, old ones I had to take to a hydraulic shop and pressed out replaced brake lines for braided lines resealed leaks on gearbox (found it has a brand new clutch when i pulled the box!) replaced clutch slave cyl fitted alloy ebay special alloy radiator Genie headers made an exhaust for it out of 2.25 piping with a Lukey muffler replaced fuel pump started fitting triple webers Also started cleaning up the wiring in the engine bay when I bought it. I'm not sure what that front bumper is off but its way too pointy and sticks out heaps. What it looks like today... there is a car in there somewhere! Engine bay pic form a little while ago Home made exhaust with Lukey muffler more updates tomorrow after I finish making a heat shield and fitting the webers - Justin

G Works Vol2 S30 tuning/repair book. Always good to see what people have done over in japan and also to just drool over the pages I bought one last night. he took an offer of $39 so hit him up if your keen he's got 1 left http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=271180657227

i've bought a fair bit off them too and they've been very good to deal with.

thanks guys. I'll try chasing a 280zx one too. The only other thing i was thinking was getting some pipe turned down to fit. might be the go if I cant get a cross member

Hello everyone I've been replacing the bushes in the Z with urethane ones. The kit I bought didnt come with instructions so I later found out that I needed to retain the original bush shells for the trans cross member..... after I'd cut them out, thrown them in the bin and the garbo had taken it all away. Does anyone have a spare with old bushings that I can buy off them? thanks Justin

there are some reproduction ones floating around on ebay lately there was another set with the plastic orange indicator insert too http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Datsun-240Z-260Z-park-turn-lens-HOUSING-LH-NEW-REPRODUCTION-/251126910213?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a78548d05 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Datsun-240Z-260Z-park-turn-lens-HOUSING-RH-NEW-REPRODUCTION-/251126910539?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a78548e4b

sounds good to me. i'll send you a pm

I'll take it! though only if your feeling excited about posting it up to bris??

Hey guys Just got a little more information to add to this. found some info on setting up a speed sensor. earlier models of s15 6 speeds have a removable plug at the rear of the box under the shifter. A modified speedo cog from an s14 5 speed can be fitted and a speed sensor from an s14 can be used as well. from what i've read the speedo cog just needs to be machined to fit the shaft and some circlips and a detent ball is all thats needed to hold it in place. the shaft has the circlip grooves already from factory. I cannot confirm the circlip grooves in the shaft but i can confirm the plug in the gearbox. I've got 2 6 speeds. the '99 model s15 box has the removable plug but the '01 box doesn't. i was reading about it on these 2 pages http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=14753 http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=5992&start=255 here is a pic with where the plug is located Justin

thanks for the input guys. I'll check over the bilsteins again tomorrow and talk with pedders

Oh true? so once again ive jumped the gun and bought stuff i didnt need... Hmm i wonder if i can get a refund. I need different gland nuts and dust boots too....

Hello everyone! I'm in need of some help with shocks for my front end. I bought some el cheapo pedders shocks to put in the front and rear while im getting it on the road but they are physically smaller in diameter than what was in there It has Bilsteins in the car originally, but the part numbers dont match up to their catalogue (according to the rep i was talking to). The OD on the front Bilsteins appears to me an imperial size but could be paint oversizing it. So i'm a bit lost as to where its gone wrong / mismatched The front tubes are 55mm OD Bilstein shocks are 45-46mm OD Pedders shocks (front and rear) are 41mm OD i dont have any inside mic's or telescopic guages at the moment to measure inside the tube. I've been searching around for what size OD shocks are going into the tubes but i haven't found a hell of a lot. so can anyone help out with some info on shock tube sizes and shock OD sizes. also the part number on the bilsteins are P36-065 the bilsteins have hot spots around the chrome thats why i'm replacing them. which is a shame because the rods are huge compared to the pedders shocks thanks people Justin

Couple of photos taken at Lihir Island mine squeeky clean work ute

the is200 is the same box but the output shaft has a different spline count