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Everything posted by skipz
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Radiator Support panels, from scratch (inc lower)
skipz replied to nat0_240_chevZ's topic in Body work
Nat0, did this eventuate? (did I miss the boat?) certainly interested if you are producing any panels (for 240). -
Doh! Too slow...
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are these still available?
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Safari Brown... I mean Gold - The NSW Project
skipz replied to gav240z's topic in Members Project(s) Journal
Have an engine crane thats free at the moment, which you're welcome to use, but the stand is currently in use. Send me a PM if interested (in West Ryde area). -
PM sent.
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Does anybody have a spare windshield wiper linkage arms (the bit from the motor to the wiper arms, under the cowl), that they are willing to part with? Thanks Chris.
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Try http://www.shaunscustomalloy.com.au/. I haven't had anything made by him yet - so can't comment on that front. However, he has been fairly responsive to emails / enquiries.
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Final post for today. When doing the battery firewall area I had to remake the battery tray. The original one was about 85% rusted away to nothing, and so previous body works had simply tacked on a flat piece of sheet. My intent here was to remake a battery tray similar to the original. Again, I'm no panel expert, so after a few failed attempts I gave up and ended up with the one below. Realising that you'd never be able to paint underneath (since the tray was solid), I gave it a customary treatment of POR15 and seam sealer. So hopefully there will never be any problems here (at least for a number of years!).
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Will definitely. I'm still keen to go down this route with the ISIS. I think it'll tie in nicely with the power everything, and security system. I have started a wiring diagram, but its yet to be finished. Here it is so far (see pics - not sure if the jpegs will be visible or not) just in case anybody wants to view it (and correct anything!). I'll post up the final version once done for anyone elses reference that wants to follow. I'll also check out the smartwire - wasn't aware of it. Aim is to finish the body work and then jump onto this.
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On to the floor, following on from the battery firewal area. The floor was generally not in too bad condition, especially toward the seat mounts. But the front of the floor had rust holes in it. Also the repair at the end of the frame rail was again poorly executed and showing signs of rust. So out it all came. New floor went in along with the Bad Dog rails (which hopefully won't rust now, given a lovely coating of POR15 on the inside). Anyhow, finished that on the weekend. Again, not as pristine as I hoped, but it needed some beating to get into place and align with the seat rails. Pics:
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Next came the rotissery and some more body work. I was unhappy with the previous 'professional' repair work, particularly on the frame rails, floor and battery tray area. It was shocking! Hack, chop, silicone over the top to stop rust, and she'll be right mate! That of course let to some minor issues i.e. rust. And I had plans to put in the Bad Dog rails. So out it came. Chopped it all out, a bit of bend and weld and it seemed to come out okay. I'm no panel beating expert - in fact, this was really my first go at compound curves and bends. My original panel wasn't quite large enough, which led to a second patch job under the battery tray. That let to another patch job since the original metal was thin and I just blew through too much when welding. So, its not the pristine job I was hoping for, but good enough. It all came together when the floor went in. Pics:
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This was all prior to a rotisserie. So I didn't tackle anything underneath at this point. Instead I decided to let rest the rust repairs and attempt to fit the vintage air heater unit that I thought would go in no issue. Again, wrong... for what I wanted. These units have the motor on the right hand side - which would be fine if we were driving LHD. It's also not that big a deal for RHD, but of course I feel the need to electric power steering. The problem comes in that the motor for the EPAS needed to be rotated toward the centre of the car to have it most hidden (again they seem naturally oriented for LHD cars). So, the motor of the EPAS and the Vintage Air unit clash. To fit them both with the motors together meant that the VA unit was shifted quite significantly to the left. Hence we have fairly significant mismatch of the heater hoses behind the dash. So I had to rotate the VA unit with the motor on the left. Unfortunalely having the motor on the left, means that the outlets on top of the VA unit have virtually no room for the dash hoses to connect to (the wiper motor gully - if I can call it that - gets in the way). Pulling the VA unit out to allow hose clearance, meant I'd have dash panel issues. So I gave this a go - a custom 'ducting relocation unit'. Or whatever you'd like to call it! Basically just shifting the duct outlets on the VA unit to a more manageable location. A little cut, bend, weld and success. I made a frame to house the ducting portion and the VA unit such that I can fit this in no time flat - its literally a bolt in fitment. The heater and A/C lines (and any body wiring) have plenty of space behind the unit, so they will fit all nice (still to be done). A little Por15 on the inside will stop any rust. Its more weight than I originally envisaged, but I don't think its any heavier than the stock unit. Pics:
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So I started cracking on. Pulled the door skins off to find more rust. I've let them sit for now while I takle other things - like the rear repair. Again I was suprised how well the bog was hiding it all. The rear I had no idea, and when buying the car thought I'd managed to get one without rust there. School boy error. You could easily poke a screw driver through some of the sectoins. So, out it came, and in goes the new bit. I don't have a pic of it complete, but here some in progress pics. The rear repair is all complete now.
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Its been a long time since I last posted, but work has not (completely) stopped. Thought it'd be good to post again. Since last time, the car went in to be blasted to get it back to bare metal. I was suprised to see how much bog was covering up previous issues. There was rust in all the usual places, some dodgy body work done previously, and it was clearly evident the car has been in at least two frontal impacts. The whole front passenger side has been replaced in the past, and the bumper obviously took a hit. Body wise, there were scrapes hidden under bog, running down both the front and left hand sides. A small sampling of pics:
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If this is still going on, I'd be interested in fibreglass no pod.
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PM sent re steel wheels.
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Car rotisserie sydney 240z back from blaster
skipz replied to jared's topic in Parts and Tools for Sale
Agree with Lurch - just make one to suit your needs. A lot cheaper than buying one. Here's my copy of other members' ideas http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUm_naiTnSo. Can't remember the exact cost for the steel but I don't think it was any more than a couple hundred, plus a weekends worth of cut and weld. -
Attention Sydney Zed owners - The Discovery Channel want's YOU!
skipz replied to C.A.R.'s topic in General Discussions
Haha. I guess my empty shell is out. -
FS: HOBBY CNC MACHINE- READY TO USE - SOLD!!
skipz replied to benny's topic in Parts and Tools for Sale
What materials can it work with? Woods, plastics, metals? -
VIC For Sale Topstage Rear Spoiler ***SOLD***
skipz replied to Zedman240®'s topic in Parts and Tools for Sale
PM sent. -
Techno Versions / RT Style Diff mount - Group Buy Full!
skipz replied to d3c0y's topic in Parts and Tools for Sale
I'm interested - with the standard mount. -
Is the fuel tank still available?
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Hi all, Does anyone have a spare 240z radiator support panel? Mines a bit dented and I'm looking to replace/repair. Cheers.
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PM sent. Cheers!
