skipz

West Ryde area

As in the pics below. Happy to take offers. Front and rear struts. All tubes are 51mm diameter. Rears have been cut and welded about 1.5" shorter. Rears have gland nut missing. N42 head. Pretty sure its from a patrol and possibly has water damage.

L28 up for sale (p90 head,F54 block). I've no idea of the condition. It has sat in my garage for about 7 years, just as you see in the photos. The person I bought it off had it sitting in his warehouse for about 5 years. But he said it came out of his zed, running at the time. It looks like its at least been refurbished in the past - again, no idea what was done. Happy to take offers but looking for about $700. Note: I don't really have any means of prepping this for freight, so would prefer pickup. But willing to do freight at your expense (and your guidance on how to prep for shipping).

FYI - stumbled across this. http://retrorack.com.au/240z-rack-kit Anyone seen or had any experience with these?

Perhaps this as an option? https://hum3d.com/3d-models/datsun-240z-1970/ Doesn't look the most accurate model, but it might give the right overall size.

FYI - might be of help if searching for alternate cars. http://datsun1200.com/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=181959

Does anyone know the screw size for the seat mechanism plastic covers? (I got the covers, but realise now I don't have the screws to put them on.) Thanks.

I was always leaning to without, but this zed has me questioning...

I think I've got the connections to the Vintage Air Gen II mini sorted now - just need to put it all together to make sure it fits properly. From last post, I've modified (a little chopping up and re-welding) the left side attachment point on the ducting mount unit to clear the dash backside support bars. The ducting mount unit now looks like this, when mounted up: The heater hoses to connect from the heater unit to the firewall needed to be a U-shape. I found a commodore hose did the job nicely. I still need to get the a/c hoses crimped but I'm pretty sure that will be straight forward. This is what it looks like all mounted. Its a bit hard to see how those hoses all mate up, since the hoses wrap around the backside of the evaporator to the firewall - all nicely tucked away. As previously mentioned, the left hand side defrost duct was too tight with the evaporator fan, so it needed modification. I cut off the tube attachment and re-attached it 90 degrees - with a little fibreglassing. Looks like it will fit, althought its all a tight squeeze getting the hoses in there. And finally, a little sheet work gets some end hoses attachments to connect the 2.5" hoses from the centre ducting/mount unit to the dash side vents (since the original hoses no longer attach correctly). So that should be all the hoses / ducting needed in order to lock in this vintage air unit. This weekend will be a trial fit with the dash, and test run. Will post some pics of when thats all connected up. Then I'll finalise the wiring for it. And on we go... A fair effort just to get this Vintage Air unit in there, but I don't think there is much more room behind the dash with the main fuse links, ECU, heater valve, wiring looms, heater and a/c hoses all tucked up in there. So in that regard, I'm happy with the end fitting.

Thanks for that.

A small update with one pic only sorry. As previously mentioned, I've continued on with the evaporator mount as planned. Ok, some background first: Exactly as per a few years ago (yes years... sigh), I'll be putting in a Vintage Air Gen 2 mini unit in, so that I can sit in comfy aircon. The blower motor on the unit - if you install it as intended - would be on the right hand drivers side (makes sense given its a US thang). This would be fine and if centered that motor would sit near to the steering column. But I'm also planning on an electric power steering unit - the motor of which would hang to the left of the steering column axis. Which mean I either shift the evaporator unit over and make it off centre (which would effectively null the floor vent unless you ducted it across the trans tunnel), OR you flip the unit around. I've chosen to flip the unit so the blower motor is on the left. To me this also makes plumbing the a/c lines easier and packages nicer, but comes with its own problems. The problem with this is that now the outlets sit close to the firewall up under the horizontal panel that houses the wiper motor. Not that easy to get the dash and defrost hoses attached. So I need a ducting / mounting system. And that's what I've done... The old one would work, but I didn't really plan its fit very well and it wasn't easy to install. It was also a bit of overkill in steel weight. So I decided to make a new one and fix some of the positional, attachment and weight issues. The new one does just that and is far more compact - saving me about an inch of clearance with the trans tunnel (good for plumbing the drainage line) and probably a couple kilos. Sorry I've no pics of the ducting / mounting unit right now - left them on the other camera that I don't have with me. So finished that on the weekend, fit everything up, wired up the blower unit, powered it on and it works like a charm. The ducting / mounting unit does what its supposed to. (The amount of air the unit puts out - even on low - should well cool the cabin space, I reckon). I then fitted the dash. Fits all nice and snug - you might be able to make out the gen 2 unit / mounting in this pic (behind the dash... trust me, its there and it fits). On a side note the heater control valve fits nicely behind the unit on the firewall. And ...I can connect only the right hand side ducting to the dash and defrost ducts. DOH! The left hand side dash outlet has a position conflict with the support bars on the back of the dash. And the left hand defrost duct too close to the blower motor to allow the hose to connect. In short, can't connect the left side. So this weekend is a bit of duct re-work, then she'll be sweet. As usual... small steps forward, some back... but we must move forward, not backward; upward, not forward; and always twirling, twirling, twirling towards finishing this project. (Again, I plan to put up lots of pics and explain how it all connects / sits behind the dash when all is said and done.)

Thanks for that - let me know how you go.

Anybody out there have any spare defrost ducts they are willing to part with? Looking for the left hand side one particularly, but a pair would also be nice.

Justin - interested to hear how your attempts on the 240Z column have gone - any progress?

Pulled this pic from here: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/115160-l6-cooling-system-diagrams/ Might help.

Ooo...wheels. Was hesitating on getting these, but quite happy with them now that they are in hand. Nothing like seeing wheels back in place to put a smile on (no idea how to rotate that pic) So having sorted the main fuse and ECU locations, the mounts and powercell wiring, I realised I need to finalise the positioning of the evaporator and the A/C lines before I get too flat out into wiring tie down. So I'm on to that again. I've decided to redo the previous evaporator mount and ducting with the aim of doing it a bit cleaner and of less weight... while shifting it a bit to the passenger side for a bit more clearance with the power steering motor. The rough plan - evaporator/fan mount and positioning, A/C and heater lines inside the cabin, evaporator drainage hose path, wiring for evaporator, wiring path for the powercells behind the evaporator, then onto the wiring in front of the evaporator to the mastercell. And then, and then, and then... No pics yet... I'll eventually post an explanation of how this is all piecing together, once I actually have it done. A bit hard to articulate without any pics. Soon... A little video of making the custom speedhut bezels.

PM sent re rear hatch catch and engine lifts.

PM sent

Currently tackling wiring up behind the dash... preview pic: I've gone with midi fuses to each power cell rather than mega fuses to reduce underdash bulk. They mount on plate, alongside the Haltech EMS, using mounting points previously for the original heater unit fresh/recirc air box (which is now abandoned because of the Vintage Air unit going in). I'm trying to keep this as neat as I can and hidden - trying to have it so there are only a few subtle hints in the end that the electrical system is new/upgraded. It may well be easier to have all this in the engine bay... meh. So now I have all the power lines into the 3x individual PowerCells of the InfinityBox system run, terminated and tied. I'll then need to sort out the CAN cable, then the grounding, then the individual loads, then the switches, then the battery isolator ("inReserve") and so on and so on and so on. This InfinityBox system is quite straight forward, but rather than one or two big looms, you end up with many small ones. The trouble is having the foresight of how everything packs together - which occasionally means I'm doing things two sometimes three times over (each time being a little better, and a little more robust). All part of the journey.

I've been working on the fuel door lately. Since the lock is shaved, I need to get the remote open working. Finished that today. Here's how I did it for the record. The fuel door was separated from the hinge - a little bit of rust in there between panels, so a little touch up was needed. I then built a frame to reinforce the fuel door given you now need to push it in place (i.e. extra loading on that panel so it gets reinforced). This is akin to the approach modern car fuel doors have taken. I was going to adapt another cars fuel door reinforcement, but ended up just making my own. That reinforcing member was reattached to the hinge mechanism. The original spring was removed because it contradicts the new function of the fuel door. That spring aims to keep the door shut when folded against the body - whereas I needed the door to be free to be sprung open. A spring from a Holden (? can't remember - there's tons of different options for door springs in the junkyard) was adapted to the hinge mounting plate. The one I used, just fit in the end in the body cavity - a tight fit. I'm sure there would be a way of making the whole spring mechanism more compact. A Nissan catch was adapted to the body cavity. A Great Wall lever was adapted to the cabin, just under the seat. Again, multiple options available from the junk yard - this one just happen to be the cleanest, without scratches etc. So a little adapter plate was welded to the floor. Because I wanted the mechanism covered when the interior is all done, I bend up some plastic sheet to snap onto the adapter plate, which essentially just covers the lever mechanism. The cabling was a mash of both the Great Wall cable (because I needed the lever end to mate with the lever) and the Nissan cable (so the catch end could be used) and shortened to suit. So one end of the cable needed to have the solder tip end put back on to work the catch. Turned up a stainless rod on the lathe with the help of a mate, and we silver soldered that to the end of the cable. The opening spring can be "tuned" (i.e. bend it a little) to get the appropriate fuel door opening when the lever is pulled. All I need to do know if make a rubber stopper to limit the travel of the fuel door and also stop it from freely swinging closed when refuelling. So, a little mould, cast some silicone... shouldn't be too hard. Putting it all together... seems to work well. Happy with the result. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bhmnhbs9-D8