specialp3

Hi Andrew, With regard to your chrome strip trim on the tail lights, I have use a business called The Bronzing Studio in Castle Hill to re-chrome many plastic parts. You have gone to a lot effort to restore you lights and for the extra $160.00 it makes a big difference. Once re-chromed, tape up what you do want to paint and spray with Holts plastic primer (2 coats is enough) from Repco. I have found Tamiya flat black model paint in the small spray can works really well to give the the original finish. I have also found CT18 cleans the housing very well, prepsol can also be used afterwards to remove any left over marks. My housings were fairly ordinary to start with and came up like the images attached. NOTE: Prepsol will remove the original stamped markings on the housing, try to avoid this area if originality is wanted. Your lights should then look better than you. A polishing wheel on a bench grinder is a quick way to get perfect lenses if you are lazy like me..... Cheers, Aaron

Hi Gav, I have restored a set which I have on the car now, I was thinking of taking them off and using the repro's as good assemblies are hard to find. If you need any tips to restoring yours let me know. Images below of restored items.

Has anybody purchased a pair of the reproduction tail lights that are available from MSA and other Japanese suppliers ?? If so, do they have all the original markings on the lenses. Cheers, Aaron

I agree with everyone about the unwanted attention, every time I drive I have at least 3-4 experiences of tailgating (usually clowns in commodore utes). I drive my zed a lot during the cooler months as no air con is inconvenient and uncomfortable for work, if you're tradie it wouldn't be a problem. The fuel smell that everyone mentions can be avoided as long as you make sure all firewall rubbers are replaced and you take a lot of time and care putting in the rear hatch rubber, I put the rear hatch rubber in over 6 days working a small section at a time. I have no fuel smell at all in the cabin. Do not open your vents as this is the only place fumes enter if seals and rubbers are good. My average fuel consumption is 9.58l / 100km (combined) which is better than any of the other new 2010 cars we own, I drive hard. I am running twin SU's, single point dizzy and a bored and stroked L24. I have upgraded brakes and suspension so I feel safer driving the zed than the new cars as it will do what I ask of it instead of the computer taking control. The only reason I do not drive the zed everyday is it would be parked in areas unsafe and no insurer will give me enough to cover the replacement costs. Good luck. Cheers, Aaron

Hello Andrew, Any update on the luggage straps, I would be interested in a pair. Cheers,

Are 260z front struts the same as '73 240z ??? If so, I will have a pair of illumina's for sale in a few weeks, only been in the car for 3400 miles. $200.00 maybe.

Have had this happen before Peter, the only way I could get the bonnet open was to get under the car and push the release mechanism (where the cable sits in) with a long flat blade screwdriver. Do you have a jack Or maybe park 2 wheels on the gutter to give yourself some room to get under. Hope this works . Cheers, Aaron

Thanks Dimitri, Need them all. Let me know, will give you a call when I get a time. Cheers, Aaron

Thanks Dat2kman. I know Stewart well. The reason I am looking or genuine rubber bushes is to solve a harmonics problem in 5th gear. Stewart replaced my crossmember (at that time had the solid bushes) with an old spare and the problem was eliminated. We then put in urethane bushes which fixed the problem up to about 60mph, there is then an ear piercing squeal from the gearbox until 67mph, then all quiet again. Very strange.

Hi All, Does anyone have any one have a full set of 240z gauges. Condition is not important, needing the plastic bezel's no to be damaged. Thinking of putting together another 240z that can be abused and have an interior concept in mind. I f I can get the gauges I will put a build thread up. Cheers, Aaron

Can anyone supply me with genuine Nissan gearbox crossmember bushes for a 1973 240z ? Happy to pay good money for NOS. Cheers, Aaron

what a tough looking road car, good job. where is this studio, i would be keen to get a few photo's done. cheers

a couple more photo's.

thought i would add a few photo's of what the rails look like, quality seems to be very good. not sure about the blue anodized slider knob, think i might make something that looks more original. checked they would fit in another 240, perfect fit. i thought i would add a photo of the seats i am putting in.

Rails arrived and a re spot on, will post a images of the installation shortly.

If you are very patient you can go to spare parts shops, bunnings or trade shops (Lee Bros in Nth Parramatta) that sell nuts and bolts and take what you have and see what you can match. I managed to get hold of most of what I needed. Wurth have a few options with captive washers. It took me months to track down all the nuts and bolts I needed to replace everything, also a very expensive. There was a business in the US that used to sell stainless kits where every nut, bolt and washer were packed in labelled bags for the whole car, I wish I had used him in the beginning. If you are willing to gamble try reddat on ebay. PLEASE NOTE I DO NOT RECOMMEND USING THIS SELLER, but you maybe lucky.

Most of them have gone, the fellow who picked them up scrapped most of them as they were all basket cases. Salvaged everything that could be used or restored a couple of years ago.

Early zeds had vertical, US spec '73 had horizontal. My '73 had no demister, I am guessing this was standard as my car was purchased from the original owner. Were rear demisters an option on Aus spec cars Connectors are in the rear wiring.

Does anyone know if an 1973 240Z Rear Demister has horizontal or vertical lines. I am fairly sure they were horizontal, can anyone confirm this. Cheers, Aaron

Bluerat, I think C3 could be the direction I go. Can swap many parts from my current car to the tarmac car. Thanks for your help.

Haven't even looked yet, I was concentrating on the budget for the build at this stage....... I was hoping to utilise all the running gear from my current 240 (except engine) and return it back to stock standard. Any suggestions as what class I could run an injected 240z? Looked at the reg's for Historic and it said no injection, but then also says:- 3.1.1 General: Except where specifically identified these general requirements are applicable to all 5th Category vehicles. Further detail requirements for individual groups are listed separately in articles 3.2 to 3.6. 3.1.2 Philosophy: The express purpose of these regulations is to ensure that vehicles in the various groups compete in a condition, mechanically and visually, compatible with the period of racing being portrayed. “Updating” in whatever form is not permitted. CAMS reserves the right to reject any vehicle which it considers not within the spirit of these regulations. Vehicles must conform with the appropriate group date specification in concept and in detail and which must represent one point in time in the vehicle’s history. Where any conflict exists between the requirements of current Historic regulations or the relevant period regulations, and the original period specification of the particular vehicle, the latter will take precedence except where: • components in a vehicle’s original period specification have been deemed to be unsafe for use in current historic competition; • components not in compliance with the relevant period regulations have been the basis for the vehicle’s exclusion from a period event; or • a substitution of component/s has been approved. The following evidence (given in order of priority) may be accepted to prove period specification: (i) Manufacturer’s specifications as evidenced by manufacturer’s handbook, workshop manual or spare parts list, sales brochures or magazine articles all of which must have been published in period. (ii) Any document, drawing, sketch or specification produced in period, which demonstrates that a manufacturer’s specification was varied in a period competition event. Specifications in magazines and periodicals of the period should desirably come from at least two sources. (iii) Reports from recognised experts who have inspected the car. (iv) Of lesser value will be: (a) Books and magazine articles written out of period by reputable authors. (b) Recent letters or statutory declarations by manufacturers, mechanics, engineers, designers, drivers and team members of the period. Where acceptable evidence of a car’s actual period competition specification is not available reliance may be placed on any FIA or CAMS recognition documents published in period for the relevant vehicle model. In a perfect world I would like to use it for Targa and other road rally events, but track work would also be good. Looked at CAMS, Aust. Classic Tarmac Rally Championship would be what I would like to compete but I cannot find any reg's.

If some one on the forum ends up buying this car and you don't want the original wheels and hubcaps, let me know as I would be interested in buying them. The car itself needs to much money spent to bring back. If the body is as bad 260coupe said, I don't have the $0000's for rust repairs.

I know these are not original but are very good copies, you need to contact the seller, Ataka, as you can check out if you are not in the uS. http://shop.jdm-car-parts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=67

Not sure about the carbs and fuel pump. My 240 was purchased from the original owner and is a '73, came with mechanical pump and 3 screw hitachi's (see image). My chassis is a 103 also, why is there such a gap in the chassis no.'s???

Chassis no. is HS30-100844 This seems to low for 73 model based on WA register. LHS guard and door look like different shades of white.