DatPilot

Gearbox??

The heater cores i popped are breaking at the mounting locations, so I guess it could be due to the rally driving and bumpy roads out here. (the trip to the coast from canberra isnt that smooth, well not with me driving)

I had the same thing happen in mr R30 Skyline, Do not use 2nd had ones ever (learned that the hard way) I ended up buying a pair that were listed for the MQ L28 patrol, had to cut the ends but it worked perfectly. I have blown 2 heater cores now, spent a Canberra winter without heat. Finally figured out what the problem is too. I bought this nice shiny metallic blue CPC Radiator cap, cos it was newer (old one had cracks in teh rubber etc) What I didnt think of is the PSI rating was higher than the factory setup, so instead of depressurising into the overflow bottle at 0.9 bar, it would keep building pressure to 1.5 bar and pop the heater core, or the heater hoses. so now I have new radiator, all new hoses, new cap(at 0.9 bar) and still no heater (took 12 hours to swap in the last one).....

I have read a plug for a place Precision Balancers ( think>?) in Wagga Wagga will find the post and link it here

What would you want for the ECU and loom?

Theres a feller in Syd, Nick (nixcars) he once mentioned a RB conversion to be about $8000 drive in drive out. that was for a bog stock RB25det. was 3 years ago though.....

My uncle has a few heads like that that he plays with on the old Z, he says the were off a Mercedes. very nearly bolts on from last coversation.

I got one here, absolutly worth every cent. Adjusting tappets now seem simple (previously a nightmare) I did it in under an hour (cold of course!)

should be a near enough direct swap, Will the L28 be EFI or Carbied? (ther will be a few minor differences there) and ill you be useing factory exhaust manifold or extractors?

Doesnt the 6AL have a couple of 'chips' that you plug in to set rev limits then the 6AL-2 have a dial (well 2 dials) for revs?? ebay USA have a few different options, the dollar is pretty good too! (91 cents) Cheapest in OZ I could find was $325

Well initially I will be only running a max of 8psi, then when I upgrade to the Wold 3d V4x I will use the L28et optical CAS type dissy.... so as for the cable tie idea.... starts methinking more. Cheers for the tip!

Make sure you have good fuel too!

Er... whoops. I only just realised its Tuesday! Fook..... I got some exprss post packs that will be used. Will go out and seeif its brass or not (after Topgear)

OK I have a spare few elec dissys, I need one sorted out to suit my turbo setup, as advance on boost is bad! I have asked a few other workshops and they evidently have NFI what Im on about (well they are kind of right) So I need to send it to someone, then they weld the weights, then send it back, in return I will send cash/beer/woolworths voucher etc. Oh and it needs to be done THIS WEEK, as I have the dyno booked in for this Saturday !!!! In Canberra.... let me know if you can help!

Did you get my last email?

Email sent.... Got space etc. get in contact!

There is also a pump kill switch in the Air Flow Meter. Make sure the contacts are clean and not corroded. the switch is designed to stop the pump if the engine stalls (afm shuts) or in a car crash. Good pickup point for a security device too....

many jealous! I'll just have to do with my R30 Ti rims...

So thats what the big 'bang' is on acceleration and decelleration? (I have a R180- in the back of the R30 Skyline) I have been looking for what it is for AGES..... is it the 2 mounts on each end of the 'moustash' bar?

Im keen for sure. If my car is running of course!

I was thinking of making a dash up there from here in Canberra. Will see what pans out (have to drive to Melb-Mallacoota-Eden- batemans Bay the next weekend)

You mean $800 a pair yeah? wow missed out on a bargain

OK Im going to blank off the PCV valve connection to the efi intake manifold, has a wierd tapered thread. ANyone know what it is? and what can I blank it off with? The local bolt shops got no idea...

Definitly from allI have read, look for the Zinc content. some has 0.04%, and then others 1.4% (like the VR1 Racing Valvoline, in 10w-30... well a few years back it did) Here in Canberra I use a 10w 30 as in the mornings its usually -3 deg, and I need the oil to get to the nooks in the engine quicker. Using a Nulon 20w 40 in the wifes suzuki Ignis, and its noisy as hell in the mornings till its warmed up. I suggest use something to match the driving conditions (average temp for the season and also driving style)

WOW, very good. Looks great! DEFINITLY will be in touch.