DatPilot

Cheers for that. Good advise! Ill save the ARP bits for when I build the L28 frankenmotor. (thats for when I grenade this L24e) ' oh sorry wife, i was driving along and boom.... now i need a new engine' ' oh ok hun, just nothing too expensive' '....ripper...'

Im about to install a turbo sump on my L24e, I have a new sump gasket, and genuine Nissan sump bolts to suit too. Any tips or pointers on making sure it seals correctly? I have no idea whether to just use the gasket by itself, or to use a sealant aswell? AND, while the sump is off, anything I should look out for? (I will be giving the oil pickup mesh screen a good clean out) I was thinking to so an ARP bolt kit while I was down there.... 10 PSI here I come!

Email / phonecall sent in regards to the engine. Still good for it got a mate looking to put disks on the rear of his R30... any chance this has disks? are the handbrake cables siezed up at all?

sweet! Im keen on the engine (just the block/head/sump/intake manifold and the gear on the manifold) to be put on a stand and rebuilt with ARP studs etc for 15 psi. Can you list the head casting? (E88 or N42 or something) Also keen on the rims! (need some to make my Z31 to roll around) In Canberra too.

With the dissy, would just disconnecting the vac line to the diaphragm stop it advancing? locking the dissy is something I completely forgot about....

i ended up grinding a barb on teh shank of the o-ring injectors, and removed the o-ring. hose was warmed up a tad prior to sliding on which worked a treat. now with the clamps on... it aint going no-where. will see tonight if it leaks or not...

Im re-routing mine... turbo gets in the way. My hose is in ok nic, can send a pic if anyone wants it?

Funds & pm sent

Do you mean the fault codes? (with the flashing LED's) That feature is only on the turbo model ECU. If its part numbers, there are HEAPS of them (there was a revision nearly every month or so)

I'll take the Rebuild OHC book... PM me your details.

Would you be willing to bring the L28 and the head with cam to Canberra?

I got one from an R30 skyline on Ebay for $14

Cheers for that. I have a set of Rb units here, just thinking to get a fuel rail fabbed up so its easier to fix for next time...

WTB: WORKING injectors. I have a PILE of them that leak from the body. Last few purchases were all duds. I think they just go to crap after drying out??? Currently running a Fuel only ECU, rigged up to run VL turbo injectors. (270cc hose-tail) Injectors from a VG30et or L28et will do the same job. They need to be GUARANTEED to work. If they leak, I want my money back. Will pay good dollars for good product. Only other solution I can think of, is get a custom fuel rail fabbed up ($150 to $200) to suit the RB25de injectors (270cc low imp.) I have sitting here (which will need cleaning & testing anyway, at $240 for that alone, this is indeed an expensive option)

Are you for real?

PM sent

Wow I love those Advans... would suit the R30 perfect!

the early L28et had a slotted disk on teh back of the harmonic balancer with a sensor (on-crank CAS) then they changed it to have the CAS inbuilt to the distributor, its a small metal disk with tiny slits cut into it (360 maybe?) then 6 bigger slots. Its only fault is there is, you need the oil pump drive spindle to slot into the dissy. Grab the turbo oil pump while your at it. Easiest option is to source a Turbo Dissy and just use that (without the cap & leads etc), either from an L28et (USA) or from a L20Aet (R30 skyline in japan, or the Laurel) They pop up on ebay from time to time, shipping is the killer though. If you could have one to your door for $200 then you are doing well. I somehow scored a complete L20Aet on a pallet, incl 5 speed and piles of spares/bits etc for $400 delivered! (came from an import R30 that was stripped in Brissy, owner put some leyland V8 in it instead) Commodore coils are good too, easy to replace etc ANOTHER option is to adapt the dissy from the RB30e (R31 etc) ther IS a way to get it to work, requires machining and customising. Quite fiddly but definitly possible.

As in the units on the RB26DETT??? T25

Good info there, Im looking at painting my Z31 300zx in the future too. Like summer, as it wont be -3 overnight

What about the RMR30 Skyline? has the 2.4 EFI (L24e) R180 Independant rear, if you get the hatch back Ti version you get 4 wheel disks, power steering , aircon, electric windows and mirrors. Very comfy and cruisey, does 0-100km/h in 9 seconds flat (only weighs 1250kg) and the auto is fairly good (Ti only, has overdrive!) sits at 2100RPM at 100km/h many spares could be had and interchanged from the Z cars, gets 10lt/100km with ease, easy to fix, cheap to buy and cheap to insure. I have bought 5 over the last 4 years, all were CHEEAP $400 (good one, now turbo'ing) $350 (ok, stripped and sold bits off making a $1600 profit) $50 (very sad, stripped again and sold to scrap) and the last one was $100, still in the garage, just about empty. (stripped_) Its roomy, easy to fit everyone in. Room for bikes in the bak, can even fold everything flat and camp still Nissan, its got retro 1980's nostalgia, so reliable its not funny. IF you get the bug, you can always slide in an L28e from the 280zx BUT.... the Pulsar is HEAPS better on fuel, and likely would have less km (most R30 Skylines are in the 200k to 300k mark) But cheap... a good regoed and rwc R30 would be around the $2000 mark

Post up some pics! My mrs wants one so she can check emails while she cooks

I used 3m tape on my NISSAN badges, one day i wanted to de-badge before a cut & polish. the tape took the paint with it! so if you want to remove it, use heat/hair dryer to melt the glue and then fishing line, braided nylon or similar to 'floss' it off the panel

WOW, impressive! you may of added 10kg of weight with all that paint, but it looks good! compressors setups arent cheap hey! Ive been looking itno it myself

My uncle was proting some little toyta thing, to get uniform DIA throughout the runners, he found a coles / kmart bouncy rubber ball that was the perfect size. just push down the hole and where it catches on the wall, buzz that bit then try again. eventually the ball would roll straight through