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WogsRus

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Everything posted by WogsRus

  1. yeah it sure is but i can't remeber the guys nick on here
  2. its a pretty clean example i had some pis from him the first time it was posted. It will be fine as is, however if you are to do full resto well the costs add up
  3. Well if your down hobart way and you need a garage to work in, let me know, i live at old beach so just a short drive from town, there aint many thinks i can't fix or get my hands on to sought out.
  4. bugger off, a spare set, think of all those who don't have a set at all, mainly me. LOL
  5. Carburetors were on a 4 cylinder dado in Europe hence why there is only 2. Yeah well we will see what they sell for but they are DAM cheep
  6. Well essentially using an L26 block, rods, flat top pistons fly cut, N42 head shaved and welded, lighten the whole dam thing to buggery, and hay persto. The DCOM came after the DCOE they were an improved copy of the Dellorto carburetors.
  7. Hi Guys Ok so i have the opportunity to get a set, only two will need to find a third, 40mm DCOM VERY cheep rebuilt two years ago. From what i understand the DCOM is an improvement on the DCOE and much better for a street driven car. I was wondering if someone could shed some light on what would be best a DCOE or a DCOM carburetors for my 260z. Essentially the engine will be a 10:1 compression using flat tops and N42 head with big valves and so froth, looking for 200 Hp or so. Any input would be great. Thanks
  8. that is a stock one is it not? Cast C
  9. why is it that for years there were no zd's for sale, now there is heaps http://cgi.ebay.com.au/1971-Datsun-240Z_W0QQitemZ280444688208QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Cars?hash=item414bce5750#ht_500wt_1182
  10. got any pics of the rust and what you picked up? i was almost like, yeah buy it, but then well no, how the hell do i get it home
  11. yeah shes from ebay i almost got that one but it was too far to go for me
  12. Hay Pete, how did you paint the rear plasticks? I am about to undertake the same work in a 2+2 and was wondering how you did the rear panel to look so good. Ta
  13. Baby got flares, dang
  14. I thoght i saw that car before, now all i need is more mulah. Can you PM me some more pics of interior and so forth.
  15. ohhh why another bites the dust http://tassiecars.com.au/detail.jsp?id=35447&pic=0&ti=true
  16. can one enquirer as to how much? i believe it was listed on Ebay sometime ago
  17. yeah i know but the problem is not many pop up in tassie so waiting takes years. I really hope the one for 3K is much better and go from there
  18. Nope, well i have original pics just do a search for my nick, but under the body there is sooo much rust and bog it's not funny. Yeah well i am having extream dificulty finding a good shell at the moment. The $3000 is/might be an option, the person selling it has a 260z and a 260z 2+2 they need to get rid of as two cars. So the person who i am getting this car ($1500 shell) from is looking at purchasing the set to sell the 260z off to another person and a 2+2 to me, but i have no idea just how good/bad the otehr car is as yet. Admitadly if the $3000 is rust free and in good condition, with less rust then the above shell, i will go for that one, but at the moment this is what i have to work with.
  19. Ok so i have posted most pics here http://wogsrus.gallery.netspace.net.au/album01 and a post about soem rear end here http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,6227.0.html Esentially the car is a 75 2+2 mostly complete. The rust in some areas is a bit of a pain in the ass. Comes complete with interior, and so froth, wheels, but no engine or gearbox. Bonnet is shagged, front panels are crappy but i have good set from the donor car. Overall it looks fkucking fantastic when you see what i am working with. The owner is asking $1500 as is, which i think is a fair price, he is looking at an alternative which has been in a garage under cover for 15 years but still registered, tired motor but otherwise should be in great nick for $3000. Can you guys have a look over the photos and tell me what you think? Any advice, in particulary the battery tray area, would be great. Thanks
  20. well here is one pic from between the rear fuel tank and the tow bar. Not sure i don't think it has gone forward into the frame. How hard is this to repair?
  21. Ok so i found another 2+2 down here in tas, still have one more to look at. The car is in good condition, has some rust on places but minute compared to my current car. One main thing is that the current owner backed into a telegraph pole with it pushing the bumper into the rear. I was wondering if anyone can tell me if this could be pulled out or better leave it alone and find another shell. The person selling it wants $1500 for a rolling shell with interior but no engine and gearbox. The body otherwise is good, the rails are straight with only two small rust patches, very easy to fix, It is the first car with not rusted floor and a complete battery tray. Anyhow any advice would be great on this. Don't mind the hatch as i have a new one.
  22. I Love the MAXXIS MA-Z1 fantastick tire, stick like shit to a blanket and get good milage out of them too
  23. not to bad, but i want a budget build well a resonable budget build.
  24. well i will be shaving about 1mm of the head, depending what the CC of the head is after i have finished with it. As for cam that is a little undecided as yet, but i will most likely only run a stage 2 cam as they call it, so 270 with 0.46 lift i think. How do you calulate the fly cut depth? Sorry never had to customise stuff everytime previously i rebuilt engines it was stock for stock only.
  25. WogsRus

    P90 Head

    thanks mate will Pm him?
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