WogsRus

Ok so if SM is to rich, SH appears to be just right going by numbers. The closest to this is a BFN needle, so looks like i am getting a set to try, might be worth while.

another problem, SM needles are not available in swing cab sets, so looks like i need to find something similar to an SM needle in a swing type

found this great tool, fantastic. So people say an SM needle is to rich, so looks like next best mid ground is a SH needle. This is great. https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=15&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CDEQFjAEOAo&url=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.comcast.net%2F~rhodes%2FPDF%2FSU_Needles.xls&ei=duOfVNb9DpO78gWbv4GIBg&usg=AFQjCNEsDxM5cLMEf1XbD66CgA7Dm98joA&sig2=qP1KgmDjONW2aCgihXo7Kg

Ok so i took the HS6 carb jest out, stamped BCM. I also took a set of jets out of the spare set of 4 screw dome tops. The HS6 needle is much longer and fatter then the hitachi one. The hitachi one will not fit into the HS6 carb as this has a spring loaded needle seat. SO i think SM needels are in order. Thoughts>

they are in my 260Z running an L28 motor with an early E88 head i think. If they are still jetted to be from a dolomite, i might have an issue. Looks like i should check the jet size and the needle but i don't want to fiddle with it as it runs nice.

thanks 1600 dave much appreciated

Sorry should clarify, im not trying to drive to rev to 7k, its more the engine simply will not rev to that high, I was trying to say that in neutral just sitting there, jt won't get to that rpm it seams to break down at say 6.5k like it missfires.

more pics

Ok so my new Z came with what looks like to be HS6 not the early hitachies. Can someone tell me what the main differences are and are these worth keeping or going to Z therapy 240z carbies with SM needles etc. Current;y, ca pulls hard, however i have lowered the jet down another one turn as it was lean, now seams ok still a bit flat above 5600rpm and will not rev to anything over 7K not even at idle,that could be more the dizzy.

Eat humble pie. Ok its the dizzie. I looked at it last night, found a whole heap of little balls in it. Turn out the breaker plate and weird mechanism underneath has disintegrated, thus short circuting the plate. HUMM now to find a new one. BUGGER IT. OK now whe know what to look for. Put stock points dizze on, and hay presto 10V on coil after ballast resistor. All good.

Don't think its the dizzie, i think its a dogy ballast, plus voltage regulator/ alternator. Will figure it out but uts driving me insane.

Tried all that and still no good. Going to direct wire new coil tomorrow and bypass everything to see if it works.

Ok so i want to start a new topic as i cant find any answers online. It follows on from my L24E dizzy upgrade. SO, last week i installed a L24E dizzy, bypassed the resistor and ran the standard resistor coil at full 12V for a week plus. Happy days, massive improvement, however tacho was all over the place, something to do with the removal of the ballast resistor, because if its on inline with the coil, tacho is spot on. SO i order to solve my bouncing tacho issue i did the following. 1) Ran resistor coil with no resistor = Tacho bounce. Pulled the tacho out, mine is an impedance type, so not sure how to do the 2.2kOhm resistor trick. Essentially, the tacho has a loop passing through a sensor i am assuming. 2) Installed a non ballast resistor coil and bypassed the resistor to get the total resistance back to similar as with resistor coil and resistor = Car would crank and fire, then die. Simply cant rev. It fires, does maybe 50revs then just dies. 3) Same as above, except ran it through the ballast resistor = Same thing. Fires, 50rpm, then dies. 4) Re-installed the stock resistor coil and ran resistor in line = Same symptoms as in item 2. Car fires, dies immediately. Then fires again and idles at normal rpm, however if rpm drop below 800rpm, car immediately dies. HOWEVER, it makes the tacho work just fine. 5) Ran the resistor col without the resistor and back to symptoms as per 1 case. I tested the voltages and this is what i got in scenario 4, which is the stock setup just running electronic dizzy. Voltage to Coil on star up = 13.8 V Voltage to coil after start up = 7V Voltage to In on Ballast resistor = 13.8V Voltage out from ballast resistor = 7.8V Seams to me like i have fried something as the voltage to the coils is to low, should be 9V not 7V. What the troubleshooting from here? Also, on my positive side of the coil, i have a total of three connections, one is the positive to dizzy, the two others from loom, one black with white stripe, other just black. I have taken the black one off and car seams to run better, but voltages still the same. Someone please help me

either way, NG, im going to try the 2.2Kohm resistor trick and see if that works. My tack works, but it just jumps around in steps and not smooth at all. Failing this, a nissan R30 coil to suit dizzy.

SO I put a non resistor coil in and....NG. The car fires up the dies and nothing, backfired all sorts of stuff. Looks like it will be best for me to fix my tacho by running a GT40R with a resistor pack. Bugger it. LOL.

I suspect maybe tge resistance must be different as my tach jumps all over the place now.

I've read the forum and all it says is that when converting to electronic dizzie (dr30 l24e dizzy) use an electronic coil. So does thus mean if I run a resistor coil without the ballast resistor, I will damage something. I was told that a non ballast resistor coil runs 9v not 12v.I suspect I should be running a non ballast resistor coil?

Shouldn't, but it does, lol. I will double check, I am preaty good at following directions but from what I have read, the tach can play up?

ok so dizzy fitted, what a difference. HOWEVER the tacho is sketchy, idle is fine, slow rev is fine, fast rev no good, bounces and jerks all over the place. Ideas I hear that a new resistor is the way to go inline with the tach? I have no more ballast resistor etc, any help please. I have read a dozen posts and non the wiser. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,3159.msg59034.html#msg59034 HELP PLEASE

Well i think it was something to do with wiring/ballast resistor, as the coil use to get so hot you couldn't touch it, now its nice and cool.

Drove around all day today, no more miss, here a sound clip

Thanks Lurch, apparently, there are two ignition modules on the electronic dizzy, any idea what the difference is and which one should be used?

Ok so i have ritchened up front bank half turn and rear 1/4 turn, seams to pull a bit better too, a bit fluffy on light throttle, oh well just drive hard. I cheeked the timing mark, got piston to TDC and it is defiantly 0 deg on the crank and the marks. My car runs 17 deg Advance according to timing light, anything under 10 and it simply wont drive, coughs splatters etc. Does this mean my dizzy is out by a tooth? It does not appear to ping but its hard to hear over the exhaust? All that being said, the car pulls like a freight train and no more miss at this present time since ballast resistor has been fixed up.

I have a brand spanking new l24e radiator from a MR30 skyline. I want to install it in my zzed. Question, I have read a lot about 280zx dizzies with the e10-80 module or what ever, is the l24e dizzie thesame. What is the differance in modules and why would the other module number not work? Ta

Thanks mate yeah i wast sure how to do it. Ta