WogsRus

Ok so i recently acquired a 76 Datsun 260Z 2+2 however the engine is not the stock 2.6 but a mildly hot 2.8. Recently, thanks to a poorly selected clutch/bearing combination, the gearbox has shit itself and needs a rebuild. So the thing is, in the 76 datsun i have, the gearbox, according to gear count is 2.90625 1.902272727 1.308441558 1.001196172 0.863636364 and also runs a blue spedo drive, this would indicate a 3.7 rear end. Also has metal synchroes. I also have a 76 spare car, also a 2+2, and pulled the gearbox out, it has brass synchroes, not steel and has the following ratios 3.321428571 2.076555024 1.308441558 1.001196172 0.863636364. The spedo drive came with a white 19 tooth spedo drive, indicating that it runs a 3.9 diff. Can this be right, when did the changes in drive line occur? So now i think it would be best to run the 2.9 gearbox wit a 3.9 diff?

Well ok so today i had a look at the gearbox still in the car and looks like that one is a 2.9 first as-well and the strange thing is it has a blue spedo drive, indicating a 3.7 diff? WEIRD

Thanks lurch, but its a taller ratio, ie more speed in first and second. However i cant buy the steel synchroes and i am not sure if you can use the number 1 gear set with number 2 synchroes.

Ok so after pulling apart my two spare gearbox i have the following 1) Early steel synchro type with the following gear ratios. 2.90625 1.902272727 1.308441558 1.001196172 0.863636364 The gearbox needs a full rebuild, sloppy bearings and mashed synchroes. 2) Later style gearbox from my spare 2+2 which has three sensors on the side, no idea what for, with the following ratios. 3.321428571 2.076555024 1.308441558 1.001196172 0.863636364 Gearbox is tight and runs brass type synchroes so it can be fully rebuilt. The car runs a mildly hot L28, everything else drive-line wise is stock. So which one do i go with?

For me driving is like therapy. These days your bombarded with modern tech and the ever present distractions. When i've had enough i need to drive the Z. As soon as you start it, its like a relief, a bit of a drug perhaps. You get in, and from there on its nothing but the road, the car and you. No electronic nanny, no interfaces and sports buttons, its as fast as your balls are big pilgrim. You quickly forget about all the issues and daily worries. I try to take the ZZZ out at least once a week weather depending, hate driving in the rain, primary due to actually having a car with no rust, yes they exist. The issue with restoring is that sometime you loose focus and drive to continue, been there done that. Now i tend to start with a dam good a base and then work the car to suit me.

well it different to the box in my 2+2 currently which has a 3.2 first. HUMMMMM

Based on your silence lurch assuming all good. LOL.

So i had a spare gearbox which came with my Z, no idea what it was. Took it apart amongst my gearbox issues, to see whats what. This is what i found Gearbox in 1 2 3 4 5 Input 22 33 27 26 27 19 Output 31 16 20 28 38 31 0.709677419 0.484848485 0.740740741 1.076923077 1.407407407 1.631578947 2.90625 1.902272727 1.308441558 1.001196172 0.863636364 So according to this http://members.optushome.com.au/amaxeng/five10/gearbox.htm I have the Close ratio OD gearbox. SO this is good. NOW i think the way forward is to get an RB20 box, get the synchroes etc out of it and convert my gearset to new bearings form rb20 etc. Thoughts.

Thanks Red. Does anyone make anything for the 2+2 at all? Can you post a rearward pick and how it attaches. Im trying to make my 2+2 look like this. http://www.parhasard.be/datsun/260z/

How timely, thanks lurch. Now for tax time. Question, how do you achieve brass synchroz if the original boxes use porshe type ones?

Hay Red, wheres the spoiler form, i am after one for my 2+2

Thanks zzzzzed. The clutch bearing is one noise, this is main shaft bearing. Its quite BAD inside the box not just the thrust, i suspect thats just one of my issues. Thanks

If you depress the clutch and disengage the drive, yes, if you are in neutral and engaged, then it sounds REALLY nasty, its the main bearings are gone by the sounds of it. Sounds like main bearings.

ahh nope its not that, there appears to be plenty of slack if need be etc. I will take the box out once i get a new one, do it all at once. I put new oil in yesterday, now the box sounds even worse, sounds like bolts in a tin can, LOL.

Cant give you any more details, it was all done before my time before i got the car. Hence why i am working through all the possibilities etc. I am unsure why the push rod length (on the slave) would make any difference at all, the system is static, the only thing that can change the rate of travel is the over all size of the piston? I changes the clutch slave to the one recommended on this forum, JB4055. Nissan don't have any for the Z specific anymore. The master is the original Z one which is all new but an original Z one i recoed.

If you saw what came out of the gearbox and the amount of metal shards, you would know why im saying its fcucked. I put the scope up there, not pretty. I do know what im doing its just that this car wast built by me so im constantly trying to figure out what the others have done to it. The clutch and throw out bearing is a definite mismatch, its 4mm short by the looks of it. Mr Pauly, the beer is waiting and i have more time so all good, i wont be doing anything any time soon just yet, car is derivable, just crap gear shifts and hates 3rd.

tried it all, re-bled the clutch 10 times, readjusted the travel, no good. It looks like the clutch and throw out bearing are a mismatch, which is why its doing it. Oh well new gearbox time

thanks lurch, might shoot them an email.

So with my gearbox issues i tried to adjust my clutch as it is dragging. I cant make it stop dragging. I believe clutch was replaced over two years ago, is it possible that the clutch is wrong. Also, what can be the issues if i cant adjust the clutch to stop clutch drag. Fork and bearing etc? Thanks

Hi All Ok so i need to rebuild my gearbox thanks to my clutch dragging. my car is a 260Z however it runs a L28 bitza motor. Gearbox appears to be a 260Z 2+2 box with the filler plug on the driver side. I found this but it seams to be brass synchroes? http://www.americanpowertrainwarehouse.com/fs5w71a-fs5w71c-5-speed-manual-transmission-rebuild-kit-with-synchro-rings-77-84-datsun-nissan-rwd-cars-trucks/

OK SOOOOOOO ITS FCUCKED, looks like the synchroes have died due to clutch drag, it appears even after bleeding and adjusting the clutch drags at 7000rpm, where with the clutch disengaged in gear the car will drag forward. SOOOOO it looks like time for e a new box or rebuild. The previous owner installed a new clutch in the car, i wander if they installed the wrong one. The material coming out from the gearbox looked like a lot of metal, so i suspect my current gearbox runs cinted synchroes. SO, where do i get a rebuild kit with cinted metal synchroes, ALSO, alternatively, if i wanted to get another gearbox under it, what would be best, 280ZX, early 260Z late 260Z ?

No idea re oil, suspect standard as i have only had it 6 months and never opened it up. Yeah at the moment just driving gingerly, which is hard to do with 200hp on tap. I though in order to help synchroes best thing to do is to overfill the oil and perhaps add some Nullon teflon gearbox treatment, that way there is more drag on the gears and synchroes. Yeah i have another two boxes form a 2+2 so will open these up and rebuild the one that is in best condition and slot it in. Would love a set of close ratio gears, however i anit got the cash now.

thanks lurch, will investigate on the weekend.

thanks lurch. What is the best gearbox for close ratios that will bolt into the L6 bellhousing?

silly question, what if i over fill the gearbox, i know all say thinner oil but makes no scene, thicker oil will better slow the synchors down???