Riceburner

I had my R180 4.1 Torsen LSD rebuilt with new bearings, seals and back lash set up for $380

Mine was working already, I would think any auto elec or gauge repairer should be able to fit it.

I have the same clock in my 240 The speedo is very cool also

Oooh really, Thanks, I didn't know that. I'll be taking all of it to get bored/balanced,polished. Is that something they can check and do if required?

Thanks guys, I've already ordered a set of Spool H-Beam rods for $695

Depends on the offset, I believe GL240z runs 245's on his 240z track car with coil overs. The widest I could fit with standard suspension was 225's.

Getting a price on the spool L28 rods right now, SWM oversized pistons and other bits on their way. Are you saying the Kameari twin idler isn't required?? I have a new rollmaster timing chain and kit with guides and adjustable tensioner, will this do? Thanks for all the help guys, It's nice to have educated people to bounce ideas off

I agree with both of you, Mine do look further in than others I have seen, but there is a factory blanking plate under the guards that I drilled through. Also I am running the shorter style and not the original factory longer stalk mirrors. But in all the pics you have shown each location IS different. I'd suggest keep looking like you have done and find somewhere in the middle and most important a location you are happy with, after all you are going to be looking at it more than anyone else

Hoping this will get me by for a some years until I can do the dream bottom end we chatted about, but the finance department keeps reminding me of the word 'budget'

Rev limit on MSD set at 7150 and it does work scared the crap out of me when I hit it! LOUD. Everything will be balanced, BMW harmonic balancer, lightened balanced flywheel, crank journals polished, ARP studs and bolts, Kameari adj cam gear, Kameari H/D oil pump and possibly the twin idler gear...... Sound ok, anything missed?

any other tips/recommendations?

Yeah I'll probably rev to around 7,000, so maybe standard rods with an ARP rod bolt kit?

I'm building up a newl28 bottom end for the riceburner, 88mm flat tops, everything balanced, p90 head with works 74 cam from Peter mc. I have decided to go for a less expensive option of standard pistons/rods but over bored pistons, so will standard L28 rods be reliable enough or should I spend some extra on spool forged L28 rods?? Also I have turbo head bolts new, will these be ok or should I go for ARP studs? Is it worth getting the Kameari twin idler for the timing chain?

I never new about the shirts either. I'll buy one too!

Usually with ebay I think at a minimum payment should be made within 7 days, so was probably a bit hasty to off load it before then....... But, It's a two way street though and if you make a commitment stick to it. Yellow RX sold it in the end and Zomb13 is getting his motor rebuilt....... Anyhoo, Lets all hold hands and sing 'Kum Bay Yah'

I've done the same as natO, 30mm shim/spacer above the insert. This keeps the much shorter coil over springs captive at full droop.

Ah huh, I never got mine dynoed but thanks for refreshing my memory Allan, it's been many years since I have been up there nice n close too!

I have already rolled my guards, but it could be handy in the future. I'll chip in $40 and would be happy for it to be used by members anywhere So +1

How about a club purchase..... If you want to use it you pay to ship it to wherever or make a donation? Could also be hired out to members for a fee + deposit Ofcourse I have no idea of the financial situation of the forum.

There's complete coil overs (bolt on modification, strut, shock and all) then there's coil over sleeve kit like Shan is fitting, the latter requires welding and cutting which would need to be passed by an engineer, I would think. The bolt in complete coil over set up would already pass an engineer I imagine and perhaps a reason for the extra cost. Maybe I'm wrong... Could be worth some more research. The K-mac camber castor strut tops are a bolt on mod that replaces 240/260 strut tops, these would have to be ok but I never checked when I was looking at them.

Does anyone know of a good Dyno tuner in bayside Melbourne, my mate wants his v8 with holley 4barrel tested and tweaked if required. Also any ideas of minimum cost? Thanks

Yep. Just double check YOUR measurements before you chop the struts.

I have jet hot coating on my exhaust it's the same as hpc, all i was told i had to do to clean it was wipe down with windex. It does work, and every 6mnths I give it a polish for extra shine.

Good point Loui! The KYB AGX's needed 30mm sectioned from the strut, But I would check each strut individually. Measure twice, cut once........ I think thats the rule!

They may be able to shorten the strut to the right height then cut a new thread inside the end. If not just as you say, cut section from the centre then weld it back together. The sleeves are a snug fit so the outside of the strut needs to be flush. I had lowered King springs at 220lbs, these were fine to use with regular KYB (GR-2 i thing they are) shocks and provided a sporty/firm but compliant ride. Those inserts are for a standard length strut I got KYB AGX's (for a Z31) from Datsport, arrived in 2days , they are 4way externally adjustable, right length for sectioned struts and cheaper than Konis. You will need the strut top hat locating hole drilled out a bit bigger to suit these. Make sure you have new bump stops fitted too. I currently have the otomoto c/o kit with 6gk/mm (340lbs) springs, KYB AGX's in the front, they are stiff on the street but it handles like a go kart , I would recommend 6kg for track work only. I'd get the 4kg springs all round.