240Z_au

Hi. I've bought a new rear bar for my 240, but it came without the chrome domed bolts for the corner sections. Anyone knows where to get these with the correct size etc?. Alternatively happy to buy used/rusty items and re chrome. Thanks in advance.

Thanks. I'll just have to buy on Jap auctions. I have wiring ready and want to fill that 3rd empty hole with that switch. BTW. The left/right parker selection is an Euro thing from late 60's. Originally introduced as parkers in winter drained batteries and law required to have a parker light on at night when on the side of unlit road. Good battery could easily handle full night with parkers on , on one side. Parking was allowed on both sides of the road, therefore the need for separate L & R side. This is a standard Euro feature on all Euro car.

Hi. Do you need them?..What sort of "convincing" do you need? Jut let me know $ ans if they work (check current passing on on/off) thanks.

Wow. Kudos!

Gav nailed it. The rust is very superficial for now. Just finished restoring little Isetta and the rust was 10 x worst. I also know Bodytch. Have dealt with them for over 12 months on a few projects. They are slightly above average panel beating business as they do tackle jobs outside of just a straight panel replacements / smash repairs (2 owners there are a good operators), but each repairer is only as good as their last tradesman and you need to be involved in each step BEFORE any filler or welding takes place. Unless you do things yourself (for some not so possible), you can expect standard results. There are very, very few businesses out there that will put that extra attention to detail which will take the job above average level. PM me. I'm local, will be happy to assist in some early assessment. Currently restoring few 1970's cars.

LOL, with that much travel, I can even attempt some 'air' off one of the local hills , but with all seriousness, this thing needs to go down.

If anyone locates these, please let me know.

OK, so flares installed and more bits and pieces back on (new badges, rear bar, etc). Car looking good BUT....Lowering next. I have rear coilovers sent from TTT and a lot of other components on the way. Time to bring it lower to the ground and wider rear wheel.

Hi there. Anyone in Sydney have a set of rear bar support brackets for a 240?. Slightly rusty not a problem as they'll get refurbished. Thank you.

Thanks!

Hi Looking for a set of these. Any out there? [/img]

PM Sent.

hmm..how many years ago was this advertised?

Not sure. Paid one bill for a number of items, it wasnt individually costed. Never asked.

I'm swapping my 40's for a new set of 45's. Will be available in 2-3 weeks. $3500 with manifold and linkages. PM me if interested. Fully tuned 500 km's ago by SWA. They have also been fully rebuilt. Let me know if interested.

That's hilarious..Thanks for making my evening - 3:10 to 3:30 is my favourite bit and the FatFrog Imports looks like it was a hit! http://fatfrogimports.com.au/ (not).

Thanks Guys!..Checked Joe Gibbs, but because they apparently changed the name to "Driven" I couldn't see any local suppliers easily. Got two gallons ordered now..Will be cooking this weekend .. Thanks again.

-1 or 2 years or so ago, I Offered asking price for the orange Z on Ebay (from memory ($35K) and could never get a response

Thanks..Yeah, I agree re diesel oil, just feeling mentally not ready to run industrial lubricants in my Z , but I agree, they tend to have more of the good stuff. I may just go with your other recommendation. So fully synth all the way for you?. Where do you get a good supply base from in Australia? Thanks in Advance.

So you all run fully synthetic oils?..The old 1970's recommendation was a 10W-40, but of course 10W-30 is thinner and will allow freeer spinning and get to the bearing parts easier, etc. I want an oil with higher ZDDP levels and I see Penrite states "FULL ZINC", but when you look at spec sheet it only contains 0.10%, whereas I'm looking for more like 1%+. I'm afraid mainstream oil manufacturers need to eliminate higher Zinc levels because they need to conform to the modern EPA standards so Penrite is out for me. I hope I'm not getting too pedantic here, but I do hammer my engines and race them regularly so I need the best protection I can get for the older style engine. Dat2Kman - Where do you get your oil from?

Thanks very much. I never considered these brands, my head has been stuck in modern engines for too long so outside the odd Royal Purple, I saw nothing but the mainstream brands. I checked both the Brad Penn (impossible to buy here, Motorsport Connection in Sydney have no stock till Mid March and another supplier in Melbourne main number is diverted to a mobile) Then I looked at your Joe Gibbs recommendation, but that's fully synthetic which I guess is where you get the clean tear down benefit from I guess. XP3 looks good, just not sure if Fully Synth is the way to go on an older style engine?. You run low micron oil filter?

Hi there.. Just completed 300 miles running-in period on my warmly tuned L28. With mild cam, triples and a need for a frequent 7000 RPM, I need oil which will stand up to the task. I saw a few recommendations on Penrite with their high Zinc content, but I see viscosity varies and they dont seem to have a 10W-30 which I'd like to use in my engine. I see there is Valvoline 10-30W with high ZDDP, but they don't seem to offer this oil in Australia. Thoughts/Recommendations on the above?. Who uses what in their modified/hard working engines. Thank you in advance. Andrew.

Awsesome..thanks so much.

Hey Adam. Is the car sold?

Thanks..MCA?..Any links? I looked at TTT, but this was a comment from one fitment place, which I had no time to go through..What do you think? "....., the Techno Toy trailing arms look great, but they use a 5/8 bolt at the outer through the 16mm hole in the bottom of the strut which is a sloppy fit, if that’s an example of their other products then I am not impressed."