Glen

Funny you say that, Im cleaning up the shed tomorrow and going to give it another go and see how i go. Just for tricks i connected the started to the battery to get some inspriration and the starter sounded like it was turnning by itself. Anyway see how i go over the coming weeks. I know when its going i slap myself for even thinking about selling it. So its off the market for now

Good one ash Rotax suiting you alright

It must be out of shape, if it aint going on yours it wont go on anyone else's

A real lack of motivation to finish it :-\

Model: 1977 2+2 Location: Melbourne SE Item Condition: Excellent Body: Excellent Mechanical: read below Price and Payment Conditions: $ Interior: Perfect Registration: Yes Engineers Certificate: NA Extra Info: RWC supplied Pictures: http://www.viczcar.com/gallery/index.php?cat=10841 Contact Details: PM here or contact me on 0400 561 914, if i don't answer send a sms and i will ring back asap.

My next car build would probably be a R31 GTS-r coupe group A replica, so it wouldnt be a datsun sorry but its Jap I do think the japs do it better If i was low on budget then a race trim 180B would be fun aswell, it was my first car.

The black goes with you front spoiler, leave it, then if your still undecided go ahead and paint them.

I dont think there would be much to gain from changing your injectors, as for your TB you would just get better response with maybe a slight increase in power if you went to twin or itb's.

After a front spoiler same as mine in my avator. Local pick up only (Melbourne) must be in excellent structual condition.

ebay them mate, you will get more than $850 on ebay.

Yes please does it still have the allloy cap?

I like what your doing here, always wondered what the actual loss is through the drive-train. I was also interested with the results of 34 to 37mm chokes as was basing my last motor build off a 72 cam and thought the 40 dells would be sufficient. Look forward to the next dyno results.

cheers, i will txt you where i shall hide the clutch.

How soon you want them gone?

Shhhhhhhhhhhhh lol

me me what flavour?

Just a little update, i had the tail shaft sent off for a cut weld and balance. shortened by 20mm all for $154. very good value in my book. I could have almost got away with it but i didnt like it. Hooked up the turbo and cut down the old Dump as it didnt work in with the firewall. Started sorting through the inlet manifold and hooked up the all the water/heater lines. next is to hook up all the right hoses for the inlet plenium and then put the loom in. After that i just have to hook the IC piping and mount the IC. Then i shall turn the key to see if anything happens. I been a bit down with the lack of work atm but hopefully will have more pics up soon.

Honestly you dont need to be a mechanic to do what im doing as just about everything im putting on is factory for that motor. Having the VLt ECU is no doubt is what is keeping this project costs right down. Even if you plan do a turbo rb30 in hte next 2 years i suggest you grab a Vlt ECU now while there still seems to be a few around. Going Microtech and then adding a tune and wiring can alone cost you 2k if everything ran smooth, and thats a cheapie standalone ECU. The VLt ECU you pick for $150 and is good to run 10-12 pound. Diference between a RB30E and RB30et is the Pistons and Cam, thats it I have another S2 motor in my shed that im going to build to factory turbo specs just incase.

funny you say that RB260 as his parents do drive around in mercs so that what he was probably comparing it to. One thing that gives me the shits is why we have to pay through our noses for our own cars, i mean i dont think either car is worth over 35K but for some reason idiots pay it. I think we should be paying 25K for our "own" cars.

I prefer holden any day of the week, My mate got a ford XR6 top of the range thing all leather etc etc. He couldnt believe the way the inside was put together, console all wobbly, things didnt shut properly. Had another guy take his "boss" thing back 12 times, guards didnt align, had a major oil burn problem. The new VE craps all over the new FG, The FG looks like a 18YO pimped it up while the VE has European class written all over it. As far as V8supercar racing goes there basically the same in performance with different badges.

I don't believe the RB would cost 10G, although i guess that depends on the model of RB motor you are looking at. Presently you can pickup a series 2 RB30 for next to nothing. By the time you factor in loom, and mounts from CM and a gear box you could still do a NA Rb30 for $1500 (not including Certificate). But if you want to go fast with a RB25 and not go a turbo then you could be looking at $1500 alone for a motor. Easiest cheapest for me is RB30ET. I should have my project done for around $3500. You could throw 3.5g at a L series and you wont see 175rwkw's. Downside is a L series with Triples not only looks the goods but sounds awesome as-well and there is something special about waiting for your motor to warm-up to.

bumpy roads

Just a slightly different price bracket there.

yup my old turbo mx5 used to out perform a lot of cars. The guy that bought it off me is now doing 55's around P.I.

some pictures may help