RLY240

In preparation for the Adelaide Hills Tarmac Rally this weekend a check revealed a damaged fanbelt which on removal looked like this. (sorry about the flash but you get the idea). I've seen the odd damaged belt before but this is quite something as there are segments missing all around the belt. the pullys on the car are all clean, nick free and in allignment and I don't think I run the belt too tight. I've always run a 13A belt but a check on a mate's 240 showed he runs a narrower 11A belt but a parts check in the cattledog says 13A. Now I'm confused on both counts, firstly how did this damage occur to a newish belt and secondly what size belt are these things meant to run? Any advice or wild speculation appreciated. Roger

Hi Paul, yes I'm running the 240 this year (took the clubman last year) and I think I just broke into the 52's in 2009 so you should be cracking a 49 second run in your beast! My sponsor (Michael from Mobile Autocare - free plug) is also running his beautiful red 240 again this year after missing last year's event. Mount Alma is pretty spectator friendly although you do need to walk a fair bit if you want to get a view from up the hill. Actually, Classic Adelaide is back this year as Classic Targa Adelaide in September - check out the website here http://www.classictargaadelaide.com.au/adelaide/adelaide_home.html And don't forget the Adelaide Hills Tarmac Rally in May - run by the Southern Districts Car Club who run Mount Alma, excellent event and also spectator friendly. Check it out here http://www.asprally.com Roger

OK, so I ordered the homologation papers from CAMS and they arrived today ($85 with post) and while they answer some of my questions, others remain a mystery for now or at least open to interpretation. Head Gasket - there is a reference to a compressed thickness of 1.2mm but no tolerances specified Wheels - looks like both 4.5" and 5.5" wide wheels were listed as standard as well as optional 8" (F) and 10" ® for Group 4 racing so I should be fine either way. Spoilers - the rear bob spoiler is listed in the options but not the front. vents - nothing listed for the 240 but a GRP bonnet is listed as an option so might have to lose the vents. Engine - my interpretation of the homologation papers is that both the L26 and L28 engines were listed as options for the HS30, the quote is "Another type of electronical controlled gasolene injection 2800cm3 engine can be selected for H(L)S30 cars as maker's option" so looks like this should be fine perhaps. Yesterday the new Classic Targa Adelaide was annouced to replacde the defunct Classic Adelaide rally and will run in September under Octogon and AASA so I definately need to make the car compliant. Thanks guys. Roger

Interesting, just dug up the Nissan service manuals for the 1972 S30 and it says that the wheels were 14 x 5 J in all variants / markets. This contradicts the haynes manual and wiki and is I would think a more reputable source. Means that my 7" wheels should be OK after all. Roger

It's a stock 260 2+2, did they also come on the 240's? Can you tell me what year? Thanks, Roger

Thanks Graham, I have contacted the organisers for clarification. I'm not in it to win by any stretch, it's just a long way to go only to be rejected. We were lucky in that both CA and AHTR were both CAMS events (mostly). In the old Classic Adelaide days you could pretty much run anything as they were happy just to have your entry fees. The guys at the Adelaide Hills Tarmac Rally actually run the event very well and are quite happy to reject non-compliance at pre event scrutiny, such as headlamp covers. Our spoilers are MSA or factory copies so sound like they might be fine. We've always run in MS anyway as we run 2.8l. The main issues of concern are the wheels (expensive), head gasket (we run a thin copper one) spoilers and the bonnet vents but it might be an excuse to get a glass one. I really struggle with the rules sometimes as they are very restrictive on some items but completely open on others. ie in cMS the cylinder head is completely free so hello twin cam multi valve but you can only go plus 50% on the exhaust pipe for classics where moderns can run 4". Thanks for your feedback. Roger

Website http://targahighcountry.com.au/HighCountry/highcountry.html Supp Regs http://targahighcountry.com.au/download/2010THC-Sup%20Regs-V3-181010.pdf Runs in the first week of November, first run last year. Roger

I'm thinking of entering the Targa High Country rally this year but a quick look at the regs for last year's event concerns me in a few areas. My 1972 240z was built specifically for Classic Adelaide (and it's compliant) and the tech regs are quite different in some areas and my concern is that it's going to be a pain making the car comply with the THC regs. In particular the rules that affect me are: Head Gasket thickness - we had copper gaskets made which are undersize and must be original thickness. Wheel width - we run 7" wheels and my reading is that the maximum allowed is 6.5" Spoilers - we run MSA front and rear spoilers and I can't see that any spoilers are allowed. Bonnet restraints - in CA front hinged bonnets don't need additional restraints but THC does. Bonnet vents - again in CA they are allowed but not in THC. I noticed that a couple of members ran in the 2010 THC and I'm hoping someone can clarify some of these items and let me know how they dealt with these regs. I guess that all of those points can be overcome but I'd rather not change the car. We didn't build a car to win, just want to run with the car we have and have fun. Lastly, the engine capacity is free in C3 but the block must remain standard, can anyone tell me if it's legal to run an L28 block or do you have to bore / stroke an L24 ? Appreciate any advice. Roger

You might find that the weight of water could be enough to push that back out with a bit of a shake (if you can lift 60kgs). Roger

Hi Tom, I also run a nylon/alloy ball and cup at the TC rod mount in place of the rubber / nolothane bushes as this takes some of the bending load off the rod. This mount survived a crash a few years back that bent the TC rod to a neat 45 deg. I'm not after large changes just trying to get a little more adjustment without breaking the bank. Roger

Hi Whittie, thanks for the heads up, always happy to learn from someone else's mistakes! I already run the eccentric bushes in the LCA as my class doesn't allow modified pick-up points but modified arms are fine. I have a friend with motorsport arms from the 70's that I am planning on copying. As for the TC rods, I thought they needed to be longer not shorter on the Zed for additional castor? Those aftermarket front and rear arms are on the wish list along with CR gears, LSD, webbers, 8000rpm, alloy brakes should I stop now? Cheers, Roger

I'm looking for a pair of lower control arms and radius rods to suit S30. Hoping to modify for camber and castor and want to preserve my current ones as standard. Any help appreciated. Roger.

PM sent Roger

Again, not a tough one, my partner and I have a 240z Tarmac Rally car. Also convenient as RXX and SXX retro plates are now available for re-issue in SA. Roger

Have you checked that the earth strap is installed between the chassis and the engine? If not then the cranking current is likely going through some smaller earth or even the choke cable. Roger

Hi Paul, Haven't seen the will wood item but you can still buy the Patrol 1" m/c which is a direct bolt on. Only bugger is that it's steel not alloy. Roger

The Nissan Datsun club is a great place to start, they have regular meetings and run their own motorkhana's etc and have an active membership but I don't believe they are a registered club with Transport SA for the historic vehicle scheme. Try the Sporting Car Club of SA www.sportingcarclubsa.org.au not the cheapest club in town but they are registered for historic vehicle rego. To comply with this scheme your car will need to be stock standard ie original engine etc or they will knock you back. They would not allow my otherwise standard 240z to be registered with an L28. Roger

PM Sent - I'll take the indicator panels if you're happy to post to SA. Roger

You can also shim the springs to alter the cormer weights - quite common for series production racing / historics etc. And of course you can always move the weight in the car (battery etc). Biggest problem with weight disparity left to right is less in the handling / cornering but moreso under braking (lock the unladen wheel) and corner exit (spin the unladen rear wheel). Should always scale the car with the sway bar disconnected and then re-connect it while still on the scales and set the drop links so that the bar isn't twisted when connected, again may require shims / spacers under the rubbers to get the height right. Or just drive the damn thing... Roger

Our '72 240z rally car weighs in about 1110kg race ready (spare wheel, tool kit, 1/2 tank fuel) but no driver / co-driver. We run a fully welded cage, L28, four wheel discs etc but otherwise standard running gear, all steel panels and glass windows. Interior is stripped of most trim / sound deadening. Minimum dry weight for the class is around 1050 which we could achieve with lexan and glass parts if budget and care factor were there. Roger

Many thanks S_S, if I don't find a closer set by the weekend I'll take you up. Cheers, Roger

I'm looking for the three front valance panels that go under the grill and wrap around to include the front indicators. I don't need the indicators but do need the other three panels. Should be the same on 240, 260 and 2+2 so if you have done a front air dam conversion and have the old panels lying around please let me know. I'm in Adelaide but will ship from anywhere. Roger.

Hi Paddles, I"m running exactly the same brake setup as you (1", Hulix 4 pots, R31 rears) on my rally car and I have retained all of the factory plumbing save for removing the residual pressure valve from the master cylinder. I'm not running any other bias adjusters and the bias is fine. Roger

Now now, big boys don't cry.

Hi, I'm interested in the gearbox, where are you located? Roger