gilltech

As I recall on this forum back in 2009/2010 there were quite a number of Zed owners wanting to go down the path for what I would call the JDM 'Fairlady Z' look with G noses, the add-on guard flares (necessitating cutting back the rear wheel arches), 'Fairlady' badging, and the hockey stick mirrors, etc. Much chat about positioning of the mirrors, and much disbelief that the JDM mirrors weren't mounted symmetrically! I saved the JDM mirror positioning diagram that was posted on this forum back then, just out of interest. But as to where it originated, and it's accuracy or otherwise, I have no idea. But your guards already have the holes in place, so surely they are right. I suggest you mock up the JDM mirrors if you have them to check their fit, and also if you don't like the positioning then now is the time to change one or both of them before you paint! I presume the off-set mirrors was a JDM thing? Because my NZ-new RS30/260Z originally had hockey stick mirrors (big chrome things), but positioned symmetrically. AFAIK the export 240Zs and 260Zs sold new in NZ had the hockey stick mirrors, unlike Australia-new Zeds which generally got a single door mirror did they not? At the end of the day it's your car that you are doing such a commendably thorough job on and you have to like the final outcome.

Well, FWIW they look perfectly fine to me, looking at my RS30 / 260Z, those swage lines are indeed a fairly tight radius.

A unicorn I'm afraid. And that's changing, with the cars so sought after now that even rusty junked shells are being re-evaluated.

This is a question for Gav I think. This JDM mirror positioning topic came up on the forum way back in 2009/2010. According to my filed info and dimensions from back then - which I hope are correct - yes, on a JDM (RHD) car the driver side mirror is closer to the front of the car by 3.5cm, and also 2cm in closer to the bonnet/hood. Does that match with what you've got? Gav and others might like to chip in here as I recall there was quite a robust discussion about the matter back in the day, with people unsure which dimensions were 'correct'.

With the steering wheel painted yellow I wonder what the rest of the car it was once on looked like???

I'll take a shot - I'm thinking the first one is off a 240K, the yellow one with spoke holes is later 240Z, and the third is aftermarket like SAAS or Autotecnica or whatever. AFAIK all 260Z wheels had padded rims although I've seen several with the 240K 'wood' style, retro-fitted probably as the padding breaks down over time. PS. I don't know why the rawl pins on the first wheel have been bent over, except maybe to fit a different car altogether?

I think there is - one of these? Yes. But IMO they need gluing in place as they are so easily flicked off when getting in or out of the car as clothing catches on them. Great work BTW, especially your metal shaping skills. A real credit to you.

Lap welds will only invite rust if they are not fully sealed along both edges allowing moisture in. But do a butt weld if you can, single thickness is easier to dress up and finish so it is hidden.

I'm old-school so +1 for the L series.

AFAIK, only the very early 260 shares the sender unit with the 240?? hence the same part number. (I hope, as I bought a new one as a spare just last year). There are different part nos for later 260s I'd thought... I'd need to check. So best to know what year the 260 is you are thinking to retrieve the tank from for your 240 if it doesn't come with the sender unit.

Well it's reasonable to suppose that Nissan-Datsun origin bobtails were available via dealerships around the world which then enabled them to be replicated (more or less) by local fibreglass artisans at less cost. Alan, front spoilers too? My NZ-new RS30 has quite a tidy bobtail complete with the raised section Alan mentioned. This from a country that makes pretty much anything using fibreglass... jet boats, pleasure craft, beach buggies, kit cars.....

Who knows what the repro ones are modelled off. Lots of other Jap assembled '70s-era-and-on Nissan/Datsuns had the hockeystick mirrors. They varied and evolved somewhat in side overhang and head size/shape, as did the plastic colours. Maybe my aging brain, but the ones I recall seeing on the 240Zs sold new in NZ I thought were pretty much jet black not silver or charcoal?

Hang on. Q. By 280Z are you meaning the S30 series 280Z as sold in the USA ie. the continuation of the 240Z / 260Zs, ie. your car is LHD; or, the 280ZX (S130 series) LOTS of which came into NZ as used car Jap imports in the '80s/'90s and many for some reason (JDM?) had '280Z' rather than '280ZX' badges on them. Caused lots of confusion back then and probably still does. 260Z clutch and brake pedal shafts are different shapes Gav, the clutch pedal is straighter, so I don't know that using 2 brake pedals would work, maybe, but they would be closer together. Could always try, or modify as required.

Wow, with that many fixings they must have been expecting some serious forces at work...

FWIW, on mine the underside of the bobtail is open each end, bare fibreglass with some body colour overspray (I should tidy that). It doesn't overhang as much as yours looks to. You might be able to see it in my avatar. And mine isn't bolted on like yours, rather there are two flat sections inside with a single bolt each and they bolt down on to the hatch above where the two large holes are in the frame beneath, which are I presume for that purpose; the holes have large blanking grommets in them.

The chequered vinyl over the tunnel is correct for a '74, the much later cars had carpet. The seat covers would have been black vinyl overall as per the rest of the interior not that two tone cloth.

Well if your car still has the rubber gaiters and in good condition then the gland nut seals will surely have been well protected. I only suggested new ones as all the rubber gaiters I've seen on 260Zs have been dry rotted. Good effort on your part to preserve existing parts rather than just discard.

What I think is a little confusing is the last photo, how does that photo fit with the others that show the car sans rear quarters?

Ditto what Jeff says. Having done all the good work you've done I think all you'd need now, preferably, thinking long term, are new gland nuts as they contain the external seals and keep all the dirt and crud out. But I don't know if the 56mm gland nuts are available, I've only seen the 51mm ones on Aus eBay. Maybe NOS ex the USA? FWIW later 260Zs than mine had rubber gaiters to keep the dirt out, like on motorbikes.

My FSM doesn't call up the weight of the oil, just says (quote) 'Use genuine shock absorber oil "NISSAN GENUINE STRUT OIL" or equivalent'. IIRC, way back then I used ATF oil. Which I think is about 10W, or maybe 5W/10??? Same as I used to use in my dirt bike motorcycle forks. Maybe there's something more specific available these days. I think try and get hold of new gland nuts if still available.

Yeah, keep it coming! Makes me want to learn how to Mig weld now.

Any update on getting a left-hook 240Z from the USA idea?

Interesting, I didn't know that Nissan also provided drop-in cartridges as replacements. So maybe that answers your question as to whether rebuild kits are available, as in I guess not! Except maybe the gland nuts, to use the correct term, (not 'collars'). My FSM dated April 1976 page FA-11 specifies 340cc oil for the front strut. Given the date I presume that is for the 260Zs with 56mm struts. (Mine has 51mm). That same FSM's page RA-8 for rear suspension servicing just says 'refer Section FA'. As I recall from way back then I couldn't overfill my front struts, when compressed or expanded (whichever it was) they would only take so much. But, I also presume that there was a different FSM for the late 260Zs which had the taller rear struts, again (presumably) therefore requiring more oil! What year is yours? Hope that is of some help. But best do your own research.

Back many years ago I just flushed out / changed the oil in my 260Z front struts as they weren't leaking and I was perfectly happy with the damping. If they should eventually leak then maybe I'd just replace the top collars assuming they were still available otherwise inserts would have to be the go. I can't recall where I found the specs for the oil and quantity, factory workshop manual presumably. The rears weren't as good so I installed heavy duty hydraulic Monroe inserts in those. [Was $$$ driven choice, fancy adjustable Konis weren't an option]. I don't know if new stock internal seals and parts are available, best scour the 'net to see. I have seen NOS collars for sale on eBay at times. Early 260Zs had the 51mm dia. struts much the same as the 240Z, whereas later had 56mm dia. IIRC from previous posts you have a 260? What dia. are your struts?

He is good isn't he! Good reading. And the sort of topic that some of us have to face at times when engines have been parked up for some time.