PeterAllen

Ian - I will be keen to see your writeup. From what you are saying I think the Holden has the same ball-joint arrangement. In fact the hole size on the Datsun link arm is the same size as the socket end of the Holden so it was a fairly simple matter of swapping the different fittings.

Okay - thanks to the HYQ (RB30X) the wiring is all figured out and the motor works perfectly... now the arms. The 'soft' spacers are pretty well buggered; can I buy new ones or does someone know the shape of the originals so I can find/make replacements? Thanks

There are plenty of Aussie sellers on eBay.

Tim (aka HYQ) - There is something 'a bit thicker' about all this but it's not your roof! Here is my roof liner and while it's a bit moth-eaten there doesn't appear to be any pattern suggesting vibration dampening webbing or the like. It's a bit sad that you are already looking for excuses and you haven't even competed. Do I detect some Pommie ancestry!

I've just picked up the knock-off caps from the engraver - Brookes Engraving Unanderra - and with a little more machining of the ears, and polishing, I'll be looking to have them chromed. Does anyone know if any special technique/material is required to ensure the chrome doesn't flake off when struck with a lead hammer? I actually have a padded three prong gizmo to use at home but if I have to change a tyre on the road I will probably have to give them a whack. Also, any recommendations on an electroplater? Thanks

Free, or a bottle of Merlot, depending on whether you think you may want more stuff!

They are all yours - come and pick them up. Sutherland Shire

Do it yourself. I turned Smiths/Jaguar gauges into Veglia/Ferrari just by scanning the original dial face and playing with MS Word. I'm sure you could create anything you want with some of that fancy software.

Datsun will copy anything 'Ferrari'.

I'm quite serious... If the car is stripped of panels, the interior and suspension it is very easy to lift, particularly at the front. I've had that engine/gearbox in and out half a dozen times, and with the trolley I made it's by far the simplest way. Just be careful where and what you use to pivot the rear... I used a piano trolley positioned near the front diff mounting points - with that I could lift the front with one hand.

Just lower the engine and gearbox and then lift the shell off - one/two man job.

Sorry OT That show is unrealistic... they never include Ed's (or his workers') labour in their cost. They actually lose on every resto. By the way, Ed China has the biggest... wait for it... the biggest Lamborghini collection in the UK. Moral - there is no money in car restorations but there is plenty to be made BS-ing about it.

Your logic fails because of an arguable (if not false) premise. Moving on. I'm not so sure you need a replacement roof. If you only want to fill in where the sunroof was then just cover it with a piece of sheet metal. I don't know that there is any curve front to back but if there is it is minimal in that area. Any left to right curve you can create by just flexing the metal. Even original roofs are near impossible to get right and nearly all restorations have plenty of bog on the roof - enough to cover the welds on an insert. Just a suggestion

Tim, it might be a trick of the camera but the hose coming off the throttle body appears to have a smaller opening than the dia attached to the TB? As they say in Queensland, "please explain".

I've heard many dramatic stories about the Datsun wiper motor so I thought I would try to install the Holden wiper motor that came with my LS1 donor car. Mechanically it's a piece of cake, so simple (details later). The problem I have is that it doesn't operate. Electrically I don't know an amp from an ohm but I have ended up with a 5 pin connector from the one-off wiring loom that was made up for the car (Killa Kustom Kables) and a mating 5 pin connector on the wiper motor. Can someone suggest how I could use a multimeter to try and match the pins themselves. Thanks

I'm not so sure about that. The roof has no ribs and if you push on any flat area it buckles. I think the roof is there just to keep the rain out, minimal structural integrity. The biggest complaint about sunroofs is they leak. I would 100% back the suggestion that you have it blasted, primed and mounted on a rotisserie, it makes repairs so much easier. Good luck but more importantly, God's speed - I've just passed the sixth anniversary of starting my build.

Are you sure it's not the spindle that's the problem?

Tell him he's dreamin'. I would support the idea made earlier that car values are a generational thing and add the economic climate as a major factor. I would predict FJ Holdens will be as valuable, if not more, than a GTHO in 2030 because of their historical significance. Car desires are mostly linked to the testosterone fuelled psyche in our teens and from there it's largely a matter of finance. I grew up with my father talking about cars of his youth (1920-30s) and he would always stop and look at them. Veteran cars were big in my youth but today you can pick them up for a song, blokes like my father have passed on and thus so has the market. My teen years in the 60s links me to that era, hence my 250 GTO, and my interest in European cars and motor sport of that era. The 90s-00s strong interest in muscle cars was fuelled by cashed up blokes fulfilling the desires of their 70s youth, but after the GFC they are much tighter with their money. I attended the auction where that GTHO sold for +$700k but I also notice they are struggling for $400k these days. When the youth of the 70s moves to a 70+ age bracket the price of muscle cars will plummet. By my generational reckoning, buying and restoring a WRX would be the go in 2030 but with the credit available in the 90s most desires were probably fulfilled at the time - but the nightmare of repaying the loan probably remains! I very much lament the loss of crafts and trades that started with the industrial revolution (and also enhanced by it) but they have suffered exponential decline with the introduction of automation and the invention of the microchip, however, I'm pragmatic enough not to give up my lifestyle for their return. Gav - I like the adage ‘work to live’; do what gives you the best financial return but make sure you spend it on what gives you the most pleasure. Like you, I've always longed to form up an aluminium panel on an English wheel but take it from me it's not a skill you pick up by going one night a week to TAFE. PS. I'll be in Ireland for a few weeks in Aug-Sept – a trade-off with the other half allowing me to attend the Goodwood Revival in September, perhaps we could catch up for a Guinness or two.

Jon - Two $40 engines stands off eBay. Weld in a 300mm section to the height. Another $50 of steel and a welder and you are there. See my PM. Regarding Tim's suggestion that I'm too old, too slow, too stupid, I would like to state that... errrr... err... gee, forgot what I was going to state.

Jon – You look to have the wherewithal to get this done but I will offer a few initial comments: Prepare some kind of written plan or sketches on how each component will be installed, engine, gearbox diff, fuel tank, emission fittings, etc and make sure these comply with regulations. Engage an approving engineer and discuss with him what you are planning to do – it is better to work with your engineer than to go ahead and build something and then have hassles trying to get it registered, or worst, not being able to get it registered. For starters, you need to work out which sump you will be using and the engine mount configuration – the latter will be very important in making the extractors. Myself, zed240au and RB30X all have LS1s and I’m sure are willing to provide advice based on our expensive learning experiences! Send a PM if you want.

Ref: http://forums.autosport.com/index.php?showtopic=93148&st=5560 Some suggestion it was quite legit!

I have never seen or heard of this car until today. When you consider the time it was built I think it puts that Holden anniversary Rodger Rabbit FJ coupe to shame. Ref: http://forums.autosport.com/index.php?showtopic=159177&st=160&start=160

If you haven't already done so I would suggest you join a car club which offers a range of competition activities. Here is one 'local' club which is fairly active in club motorsport. http://www.southernsportingcarclub.com.au/ Most, if not all, circuits offer "Speed off the Streets'- type access. Look up Eastern Creek and Marulan. http://www.wakefieldpark.com.au/ As Joe the Gadget Man would say, "bring your money with you!"

I have followed John and Candy's advice and I feel I'm ready for the spray putty. I asked around where I could get a Little Beaver and most told me a certain building in the industrial area... despite that I did manage to get an el-cheapo electric spray gun from Bunnings. My question now is, how do I prepare the spray putty? Does it have to be mixed before it goes into the spay gun and what steps do I need to take before and after? Again, many thanks.

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