PeterAllen

Thanks for confirming that Peter. So what the hell is the"D"?

That's an unbelievable price, considering the tolerances that have to be achieved for a press fit. I phoned this morning and the local Nissan/Holden chap said he would get them in this afternoon. He said the pins were $17 each (ouch!) and the bushed come in packets of 5 and are $5. I got a call around 2:00pm and went to pick them up. The chap said either $150 or $120 I can't recall which because my mind went blank once he got the one hundred out. He must have seen the blood drain from my face as I staggered backwards from the counter uttering "WHAT". It turns out the crappy little pressed metal bushes were $5 EACH , not for a packet of 5. He quickly said he would give me trade price and I could have them for $99. I wiped away the tears and slouched off with my new pins and bushes. Luckily it's age pension day tomorrow and I console myself with the thought that Joe Hockey will be paying for them! Good news is they are easy to install. By the way, there is no need to cut the head off the bushes - I don't know why the other chap did that. You can access the bottom of the bush by coming at it through the other bush. They are very easy to knock out.

I can't quite follow. Is this a second collar and, if so, does it require a different seal? The surface finish looks too rough to mate effectively with a seal...!

Thanks for the input and offers but I have to admit I've done the most unmanly thing of all and read the instructions! David you are correct they are lettered but there are 3 options A, B or C. It all started well when i wiped away the grease on a spacer and could see this. Then panic set in again when I hit the bearing housing with a wire brush and this is what I could see. The other housing was a bit more reassuring. I'm thinking the 'D' is just a poor stamping of 'B' but I'm not convinced

That's an after-market collar on the front stubs that I'll be making but I was referring to the OEM spacer on the rear. Yes, but I can't remember if they are colour coded to individual bearing housings or there is some number matching. Anyone know? I'm also finding it a PITA to buy quality bearings, e.g. SKF or Timken.

George, Cozza and ZED660 came over last night and we dropped the shell onto the engine/gearbox. Thanks Questions: 1. I'm now ready to start the final suspension installation and it's donkey years since I've fitted wheel bearings and in those days I used to go the CBC to buy them - is that still the go? Any particular brand recommended? 2. I've fitted 260 (28 spline?) axles to the rear and got the spacers all mixed up in the process. How do I determine which spacer should be fitted? 3. Finally, I've fitted the 260Z front hubs to ensure the correct rotor alignment for the Wilwoods. Are the 240 and 260 front bearings the same? Thanks

I'm making my own fibreglass doors for my GTO but I have to use the S30 latch and hinges to maintain ADR compliance. I have had the devil's own job trying to get the doors to function correctly so I've spent a little time researching what appears to be a common problem in having S30 doors latch smoothly. There is some thought that replacement door jamb trim is too big and hinders correct closure, that may well be an issue, however, in my case it was clearly the latch and the striker plate not working in unison. It seems there is a rubber covering on a revolving latch lobe which wears and breaks off, thus inhibiting correct engagement of a second lobe (see photos). With the rubber covering fitted the first lobe contacts the striker plate earlier and allows the second lobe to engage correctly. The issue may be addressed by adding weld to the striker plate where the first lobe contacts or by filing away the back of the second recess in the striker plate to allow the second lobe to smoothly engage. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/36105-fixed-the-door-slaming-issue/ New rubber coverings are available in the US (see HybridZ thread above) but are $55 posted to Aus. Here is a $1.50 alternative. Purchase one of these from Bunnings or the like and cut off at 10mm. Use a pencil or piece of dowel and a Stanley knife to cut out this shape. Fit to the first lobe - I was surprised how strong the tubing was. There is a fair bit of stretching and manipulation required to install but it didn't rip or tear. Works a treat. I will have to see what the durability is like.

Thanks George but I've already done a deal with Mark.

The circled bit. Looks like the left and right are not interchangeable so I need both. Thanks 'Peter T' gave me a 260Z driver's side latch some time ago and the thingo bit had a rubber surround however it is perished. Is the rubber just for 260Zs or a 240Z item? I could use peter's on the driver's side if worst comes to worst but I still require a passenger side item.

Gordo. I'm not sure if your car is just track or road/track but to ensure road compliance I just cut out and used the filler area from my donor car (VZ SS Ute). Ignore the the tubular framework, that's for the GTO rear bodywork.

Apologies Gordo for jumping in on your thread. I have a sheetmetal cover fitted to the spare tyre opening, is that a satisfactory bulkhead?

The lower the fuel tank is obviously the lower the CoG. I routed my filler out behind the number plate and used a flap door from a HQ Holden. It only requires the fabrication of a small shield in the boot.

Looking for a new compact camera. Does this look reasonable for around $100? http://www.nikon.com.au/en_AU/product/digital-compact-cameras/style/coolpix-s2800#overview

George. Internal surfaces which come into contact with fluids should be bead blaster not sand blasted. There is a risk with sand blasting that you create a roughened surface with minuscule peak which snap off under pressure of the fluid flow. You will need to hit them with a die grinder or Dremel thingo. All gasket surfaces will need to be lapped with 'wet and dry' on an ultra smooth surface. Wait until Kylie goes out and use the kitchen bench top!

As I don't use Nissan M/Cs or fuel pump I can't tell what they are made from. My experience with cars of that period would suggest the M/Cs are aluminium and the fuel pump is probably a die-cast alloy. When their surface reacts with air it forms an oxidizing layer which seals the material from further oxygen attack, unlike pure steel where the oxidizing layer (rust) is porous and allows for a continuing attack - not that we S30 owners need any further knowledge of that.

George. They need to be polished, not plated. Bit on a trip for us but I use Adept Metal Polishing at Wetherill Park.

Why not repair it?

Rudi. That's how they were built. Use an oxy or primus torch to GENTLY heat the lead around where you want to weld and AT THE SAME TIME quickly brush it off with a wire brush while it is still warm. DON"T OVERHEAT the lead or it will run, and don't wear thongs while you do this. Weld in your new piece and finish with bog.

Sorry... Michelangelo painted the Sistine Chapel ceiling in half the time it is taking me to make those doors.

George - I was rummaging through stuff in the shed looking for exhaust straps when I found this. It's a bit rough but you can have it if you want it.

Just call him and he will re-list them. Some months ago I bought a set and he said I could pay direct to his account and avoid eBay but I prefer paypal so he relisted them. Arrived in a few days.

An interesting thread. Good detail photos but you will have to join to see them. http://zclub.net/forum/showthread.php?t=23405

Yes you can. No they didn't.

Not sure if this might assist?

Thanks again. The GTO bodywork does away with the Datsun cowl but it doesn't cover the entire scuttle area so I've made an extra aluminium cover. However, I still need to secure the cowl section of the fibreglass to the Datsun frame and I thought I could use the bolt-in washer jets to kill two birds with one stone. It looks like washer jets from an XJ6 Jag should do the trick. Thanks again.