PeterAllen

Oh dear, you were in Ireland for a long time. I dare say it has political/social reference and relates to, now Senator, Derryn Hinch. There is a price listed on the site: Cost: "Buy your class hours in 24 hour blocks for $660 ($27.50 / hour). It is expected that this block will be used within a three month period. Workshop space is available for rent for projects once hours have been purchased."

I think Gary and Sir Jack may have mentioned this before but with Mike Baird succeeding in the dismantling of TAFE apace I thought I might raise notice of an alternative opportunity for those wishing to do some of their own restoration work I don't know how well Georgio and Vaughan are doing getting numbers and I couldn't see any prices on the web, but for some newer chaps wanting to get some first hand tuition on welding and metal forming you might want to see what is on offer. http://motorretro.com.au/

I wondering if the drums have become 'soft' - annealed by repeated tempering under racing conditions, and thus expand at a greater rate towards the edge, creating a taper under operating conditions. The cooling holes may also have contributed if this is the case. First check the bore isn't tapered. I wouldn't worry about going a little oversize to square the bore, but radius the shoes to suit. Give them a 20 lap test after machining. Is the hub true and the mating face of the drum free of burrs? WOW... Brian Sampson, now there's a name from the past. Cheetahs, etc.

Cue the theme from 'Twilight Zone'. Last Tuesday I did this, I kid you not.

Thanks Gary. I've been on Gumtree and eBay every day but nothing suits - wrong offsets or interstate. Am I correct in understanding 240Zs have Zero offset and 260s have -12mm?

Okay, not only a drive of the GTO but I'll throw in my first born. I need 16" wheels for one day only... PLEASE

After a loooooooooooooong build I'm just about ready to seek engineering approval. I've been in contact with the engineer from the word go so I'm not expecting any drama with the big ticket items but I expect 'Murphy' to be there. Did anyone who has been through an approval process have any annoying minor issues arise? Thanks.

Gareth, you're correct, and I don't really think $500 is too expensive for what you get. The bottle I have is a 3.2kg, It was, I thought, just about as big as I could go without installing an on-board system. As is, I'm a little apprehensive about the strength of the mounting, both to the car and the bottle to its frame, considering its weight. If I was back about one or two years with the project I probably would have gone with 'on-board' but like so many other things I 'shoulda done' I just didn't think of it at the time. I'm struggling for motivation as is and if I was to focus on anything other than registration I'm sure I'd soon be a basket case. Thanks for the suggestion.

No worries. Just be thankful your name's not Peter, it's somewhat synonymous with inexactitude.

http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/11329-adjustable-rear-control-arm/ http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/13197-adjustable-front-control-arms/

Peter. Spot on. I figured I didn't have too much to lose taping under size but that paint was tough and really made a big difference on such a small thread. 'RetroZ' I think you may have been sizing the four nuts holding the handbrake cantilever bracket under the tunnel which look 6mm. Thank you both for taking the time to reply.

Good stuff. Thanks. As you would expect, every screw and tap except...

I wonder if someone can remove a screw and check the thread on these three captive nuts securing the console (I think)? I have 5 x 0.8 and 5 x 0.9 taps but neither seems to be the correct pitch. The interior was sprayed with 2 pak and there is some paint on the thread but I don't want to run the wrong tap through. Thanks.

David. Bear in mind VSB are not the rules, mere guidelines. Again, I'm sure you are across these things but here are a couple of hurdles I had to jump over. If it is at all possible pressure test the line before installing the engine etc. Having stripped so many threads in my early days I'm a little prone to under-tighten fittings and as such I had a couple of weeping fitting which were a bugger to get at. Also, I'm not sure what callipers you are installing but the m/c reservoir needs to have a capacity to at least match the volume of piston displacement in the callipers combined. i can't recall but I think the stroke is determined by the pad thickness.

Thanks for the suggestions. It's only a road car but I doubt the competencies of the guy who built it, including installation of the fuel lines and fittings. I think I'll have it here, nice and close, for 6-12 months and then possibly move it to behind the passenger seat (a la Scotty) as the risk diminished (hopefully).

David. If you are going to run a proportioning value give some thought to its placement. I placed mine on the firewall but, now with the motor, wiring loom, heater hoses and GM brake booster installed, it's a PITA to access, even for adjustment let alone mounting. I basically have to remove the engine to access it. It would have been far easier installed on the inner guard. For your consideration.

Never too old to learn. I was editing my post to avoid embarrassment at the same time Mick was highlighting my ignorance. Quite clearly one needs to factor in a temperature range greater than the 20 degrees I did. PS. At my age I'm more preoccupied with shrinkage!

Great write-up - keep it coming.

I'm thinking on installing 2lb+ extinguisher on the floor in front of the passenger seat. My only concern is if the seat ever needs to slide forward. I could do a temporary install to see what access and egress issues arise, if any. It would also be easy to mount on top of the transmission tunnel (I have no console) and, again, I could do that as a temporary measure. I figure any poor connections, etc, created during the build will identify themselves on the first long run - trying to make 'Speed off the Street' at Wakefield Park on 21st. If nothing has caught fire in the first six months I could do a permanent install. Any thoughts?

Paul. I don't have any trouble remembering things. "This Spring" started 10 days ago and is the Spring of 2016. I've found that a tidy mind creates a tidy workshop.

If you are buying springs you are better off picking them up rather than having them delivered. You should ask the supplier if you can measure the spring rate before you take delivery. I've found there can be BIG discrepancies between the rate they are purported to be and what they actually are.

Well, "Hello Sailor" - you're probably too young to get that... Your post has put a smile on my face and gone a long long way to restoring my faith in the mechanical awareness/appreciation of the younger generation. Such enthusiasm and willingness to 'have a go', but understanding limits, is very refreshing and encouraging. On top of that, a 'Shire Boy'. Well done. By the way, don't do it in primer, it'll just soak up moisture and expedite the rusting process.

Couldn't agree more. I much prefer young, inexperience fabricators making bit for my cars.

I got them from here: http://www.motorsportfibreglass.com.au/ but then modified them substantially to make them the bucks for GTO moulds.

I contacted my engineer before I made the fibreglass doors to see if it would be okay. His comment was; "They're fibreglass on Corvettes and plenty of other cars - no problems!" The weight saving is incredible, particularly without the glass and winding mechanism.