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reverendzed

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Everything posted by reverendzed

  1. from the voice of the Rev....whilst the fines may be expensive and over the top...I talk with the guys who have to scrape people off the roads...and they don't deserve to have to deal with all the 'stuff' that goes with a road fatality...so have fun, but remember be safe! Rev.
  2. I bought kits from the U.S and found them to be a good fit providing that you do something to 'plump' up your cushioning otherwise they will seem to be a little large. I re'foamed' mine...in my members project journal somewhere! and then the covers fit well. The texture of the vinyl matched well for my later model 77 260 as the grain was finer than the 240's or early 260's...you kinda need to search around but it is definitely doable. Rev.
  3. The MSA one in my opinion looks very aftermarket, the one I made replaces or incorporates the interior tail light panels into one unit it looks much more custom, I'd love to work with anything/anyone to come up with the very best product. Mossy, I'd like to measure up the 240 rear and see how far out the one I have made is, and then we can go from there. Rev.
  4. Unless you're going to do a full resto, sandblasting is just about impossible because you have to strip the entire vehicle. The best bet is to get a sanding flap disk (from Bunnings) and a grinder and get rid of all the bog that you can see, if anything has even the hint of raised paintwork you can bet there is bog and rust under it. I'd be happy to look at it for you but unless it's drivable over to the south side we'll have to do it via pictures. Safe to say that you need to do a lot of grinding to see what you're left with. Rev.
  5. uhmm, sorry to say Leon, but there's more rust than what you're currently exposing! all of that crazed area (in pic 2) has bog underneath it and the bottoms of the doors have bog right the way along, it all has to come out. The problem is there is moisture behind all that and if you bog over the top it will just trap all the moisture in and rust away everything underneath. Good bet most of the sills will have filler and have you checked your floors and rails? Rev.
  6. Leon...although I know it is hard, it is better to do it properly once rather than bog it up and get 6-12 months before it needs doing again. If you shop around you will find someone who can weld up the rusted areas at a reasonable price and then you only have to 'sometimes' put a smear of filler over the top...this repair will last you up to 10 years. Post some pics and guys onm the site will be able to give you some great advice, who knows maybe Lurch will have his rust repair and panel relacement emporium going by then! (I think he should do it!) All the best Leon. Rev.
  7. Lurchos, do you want to drive here and then come in the Zed...you can drive on the way back!
  8. I'll be there...should we tell Sulio that we can do the whole wedding thing here...Zed wedding cars, Zed lovin Preacher and a BBQ - what more could you ask for? Rev.
  9. 43 years Doctorate from the school of Hard Knocks Rev.
  10. One last say and then I'll retreat as a gentleman from this conversation. The guys who say a gasless Mig will not do the job probably haven't used one at any length or don't know how to weld. By all means use gas if it's helping with your welding however to say that it is imperative to get a full penetration weld is at best erroneous information. Rev.
  11. Thanks lurch, as it ended up I found the bolts and was able to buy nuts from Repco, so it's done! rev.
  12. I use a $300 gasless mig (with gasless wire) and have done 4 cars with perfect penetration welds, it's just as much about the welders skill as the price of the machine. Rev.
  13. I just found that I don't have the bolts that go through the gearbox support bracket....any suggestions?
  14. Thanks for your thoughts. Shannons were nothing short of a nightmare and I finally agreed to a very reduced amount to fix the car...which I haven't got to yet as i'm trying to get the other one finished. Rev.
  15. well things have been moving along BUT not without some hiccups! with the help of a very tall friend (again!) I got the old motor stripped down and the old Auto trans off. Then with all of the great tuition I have had lately, I got the new manual box on, motor swinging nicely on the hoist, almost in and.... someone had changed the engine mounts to accommodate some other motor!!! So engine out again and back to the drawing board! Thank God for the 'parts car'! I had to remove the cross member from that car and the resto and swap them around and then once again have a go at fitting the motor..this time everything was where it was meant to be! so tomorrow it should be tailshaft in and fuel tank in. Carbs and exhaust to be fitted and then we should be O.K to turn the key! Rev.
  16. Then mines worth $200,000 - I think he's probably sold it and making sure no one bids, either that or he's smokin some wierd weed! Rev.
  17. Now that is wicked
  18. I'm having a go at the garnish this week I'll let you know the results.
  19. Good idea about matching it up with some real CF, however what I found was that there were even differences in that! but since doing this batch of overlay I should compare it again. Rev.
  20. Hi guys, would like to get your feedback on this. My bro and I have been quietly developing a new product that may be a nice enhancement for some of our Zed parts, today we did our prototype bonnet with a special UV laminated Auto overlay that we have been designing for the past few months. I believe that only a real good eye would pick that this is not the 'real deal' and certainly looks like it will be suitable for rear tail light garnishes, ZG flares, mirrors and internal parts like consoles etc. We are still in the development stage however I think that we are well on our way to achieving a UV stabilised product that will have a 10 year lifespan..without the cost of CF. This product is obviously not to replace CF for those who are needing weight reduction on a race vehicle this is cosmetic but looks as close to the real thing as you will get and available in a 1200 span rather than the 300mm as you sometimes see advertised on Ebay. Would appreciate your feedback. Rev. The first pic is of a plain black bonnet, the other pics are of the bonnet with a matt black centre stripe.
  21. I'm in, just tell me where and when! Rev.
  22. Hi Guys, I have a good 260z Auto box that I have just pulled out and free to anyone who wants it. I'm in Narre warren on the S.E side of Melbourne. Rev.
  23. Hi guys, doing my manual conversion and found that the box I have is missing the speedo drive gear. I have another in a spare box but not sure how to remove it any clues! rev.
  24. it might be the FI fairlady that some imported from japan...I may be totally wrong but this is what I heard some time ago. Rev.
  25. Fantastic....thanks so much I'll call you. Rev.
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