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silverz

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Everything posted by silverz

  1. I do not wish to put fuel on the fire, use your own judgement about using Stuart's services. I do however refute Stuart's claim that "All these mentioned were resolved" My issues were never resolved I had a lot of problems with Stuart and ended up settling with the poor fitting carpet - it wasn't worth the grief it was causing to continue. Maybe Stuart thought I would no longer be active on this site? Regards Peter
  2. silverz

    Seat Belts

    In Jul 2007 I replaced the seat belts in my 73 240z with brand new original type static lap sash seat belts. I purchased them from Hemco industries in Ballarat Vic, who are professional accredited seatbelt manufacturers. I ordered the seat belts over the phone and payed by credit card. They made the seatbelts to my specification and posted them to Darwin for me. They came with all new bolts etc. Total cost including GST and delivery to Darwin was $133.19. The service was great and delivery was quick. Looking at the website now I don't think prices have increased too much. Regards Peter
  3. Tim, Was this car in Cranbrook, just off Mill Drive by any chance? regards Peter
  4. Hi, Does anyone know if 260Z 2+2 windscreen trim will fit a 240Z? Regards Peter
  5. My car coughed & spluttered the first time I tried it. I was one positio out with all of the plug leads. Sorted that and fired straight away. May pay to check again. Regards Peter
  6. Thats great Chris, it makes an amazing difference doesn't it. My tacho is still working fine as well. Regards Peter
  7. Hi all, I had a new windscreen and seal fitted to my 240Z today. It was one of the things that had to be done to get my baby registered in QLD as the NT rego runs out soon (no more 24OUNCE plates!) Brian from About Town Windscreens here in Townsville did a great job and I thoroughly recommend them. The people there really liked the Z and were keen to know all about it which was also cool. I was missing some of the stainless windscreen strips that sit in the windscreen seal so I told Brian to leave them out. Once the new windscreen was fitted Brian said it really needs the stainless strips to spread the seal out and stop it contracting and creating leaks. This has me concerned and I am now bringing the stainless windscreen strips up the order of priority on my fix list. Does anyone know where I can source these strips, I already have the drivers side strip, the top strip and the drivers side corner piece. I am missing the passengers side strip, the passengers side corner piece and the bottom centre piece that locks the two sides together. Once I source these items then the challenge will be to get them to Townsville undamaged. I have enquired about getting these items from the US before but was told they are too long to post internationally. I look forward to any advice anyone may have on where to source these items. Thanks Regards Peter
  8. Mossy, I just took the old distributor off, the rotor was pointing to the front and I put the new one in so the rotor was facing roughly the same way. It worked fine for me, may be I was just lucky? Regards Peter
  9. I just looked up where Queens Rd is , it could possibly have been me, though I don't go over that way all that much as I live in Kirwan and work at Lavarack. Sometimes I go over that way for a specialist appointment in Fulham Rd or my son's rugby at Hugh St etc. Was it a silver 240Z? (there is a silver 280ZX I see around a fair bit) mine has NT plates (24OUNCE) at the moment but I will be getting it registered in QLD within the next month - hopefully, goes in for a roadworthy tomorrow. Regards Peter
  10. That sheds some light on the base issue. It all makes sense now. the distributor I used was obviously complete. Regards Peter
  11. Anyone seen this E88 Head ? http://cgi.ebay.com.au/L26-to-L28-datsun-cylinder-head_W0QQitemZ220444630195QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20090629?IMSfp=TL090629155001r8918#ebayphotohosting If it has been reconditioned as advertised I wouldn't mind it myself. it is a bit far away from Townsville though and it is local pickup only. Regards Peter
  12. Hi, Now that I have fitted the new distributor. I am extremely happy with the results, I never thought the improvement would be so dramatic. Went from poor starting, prolonged warm up required, flat spots, misfiring over 3500 RPM, to easy starting, improved responsiveness, easy accurate timing, revving out cleanly to 6000 RPM (haven't gone any further than that, is there any need?) and dramatic performance increase. My old distributor was clearly shagged. The timing seemed to change every time I looked at it. In the end I couldn't even find the the timing marks on the pulley with the timing light. New distributor and straight away, the timing marks were close and best of all consistently in the same place every time I checked it. Anyway this is easy as per the Atlantic Z website etc, although I had my own questions and was a bit concerned. I am very conservative when it comes to changing anything. Anyway if this helps others, this is what I did. 1. Purchased 280ZX distributor (E12- 80 module) and coil from Tim (RB30Z) to upgrade my 73 240Z. 2. I read up on the swap on-line and was concerned as some sites mention a 280ZX distributor mounting bracket that was required. In my case the the 280ZX distributor slotted straight in. No need for any mounting bracket. 3. I took the black wire from the negative side of the coil that was connected to the old distributor, changed the connection to a spade type and connected it to the C terminal on the ignition module on the 280ZX distributor. 4. I took away the old coil, ballast resistor and little blue capacitor thing? that was mounted on the inner guard next to the coil. 5. I mounted the new 280ZX coil using the old 240Z coil bracket (had to bend the bracket a bit as the 280 ZX coil is quite a lot larger). I connected the existing black/white wire from the wiring harness to the positive side of the coil. 6. I then made another wire and ran it from the positive side of the coil to the C terminal on the ignition module on the 280ZX distributor. 7. I then connected the black/white and green/white wires from the ballast resistor together using a small nut and bolt through the centre of the connectors on them and taped this up with insulation tape. 8. There is a terminal on the 280ZX distributor - just above the vacuum advance unit, I haven't connected any thing to this. It seems it is not needed for a 240Z. 9. I put the vacuum hose onto the vacuum advance unit (had to make a slightly longer hose) 10. I reconnected all of the leads to the new distributor cap, crossed my fingers and turned the key. At first - nothing except one backfire that convinced me I was getting spark. Rechecked position of leads from useful picture on Atlantic Z Car site and found I was one position out on all spark plug leads, corrected this and car fired and ran as soon as I turned the key. 11. Checked the timing, surprisingly it was close to the right position. Advanced timing onto marks as per original 240z owners manual (had to back it off later anyway due to pre ignition) 12. Leaned the carbs out a little as now running too rich and went for a drive. Difference was totally amazing. Performance increase is remarkable. 13. Tach is working fine at this stage. I won't change anything else unless issues arise. I hope this helps Regards Peter
  13. Tim, See above. This is what I did. Runs well. Regards Peter
  14. Hi, Now that I have fitted the new distributor. I am extremely happy with the results, I never thought the improvement would be so dramatic. Went from poor starting, prolonged warm up required, flat spots, misfiring over 3500 RPM, to easy starting, improved responsiveness, easy accurate timing, revving out cleanly to 6000 RPM (haven't gone any further than that, is there any need?) and dramatic performance increase. My old distributor was clearly shagged. The timing seemed to change every time I looked at it. In the end I couldn't even find the the timing marks on the pulley with the timing light. New distributor and straight away, the timing marks were close and best of all consistently in the same place every time I checked it. Anyway this is easy as per the Atlantic Z website etc, although I had my own questions and was a bit concerned. I am very conservative when it comes to changing anything. Anyway is this helps others, this is what I did. 1. Purchased 280ZX distributor (E12- 80 module) and coil from Tim (RB30Z) to upgrade my 73 240Z. 2. I read up on the swap on-line and was concerned as some sites mention a 280ZX distributor mounting bracket that was required. In my case the the 280ZX distributor slotted straight in. No need for any mounting bracket. 3. I took the black wire from the negative side of the coil that was connected to the old distributor, changed the connection to a spade type and connected it to the C terminal on the ignition module on the 280ZX distributor. 4. I took away the old coil, ballast resistor and little blue capacitor thing? that was mounted on the inner guard next to the coil. 5. I mounted the new 280ZX coil using the old 240Z coil bracket (had to bend the bracket a bit as the 280 ZX coil is quite a lot larger). I connected the existing black/white wire from the wiring harness to the positive side of the coil. 6. I then made another wire and ran it from the positive side of the coil to the C terminal on the ignition module on the 280ZX distributor. 7. I then connected the black/white and green/white wires from the ballast resistor together using a small nut and bolt through the centre of the connectors on them and taped this up with insulation tape. 8. There is a terminal on the 280ZX distributor - just above the vacuum advance unit, I haven't connected any thing to this. It seems it is not needed for a 240Z. 9. I put the vacuum hose onto the vacuum advance unit (had to make a slightly longer hose) 8. I reconnected all of the leads to the new distributor cap, crossed my fingers and turned the key. At first - nothing except one backfire that convinced me I was getting spark. Rechecked position of leads from useful picture on Atlantic Z Car site and found I was one position out on all spark plug leads, corrected this and car fired and ran as soon as I turned the key. 9. Checked the timing, surprisingly it was close to the right position. Advanced timing onto marks as per original 240z owners manual (had to back it off later anyway due to pre ignition) 10. Leaned the carbs out a little as now running too rich and went for a drive. Difference was totally amazing. Performance increase is remarkable. 11. Tach is working fine at this stage. I won't change anything else unless issues arise. I hope this helps Regards Peter
  15. Tacho works fine, I thought I would need the resistor etc fitted but so far I have no tach issues, revs out to 6000 rpm with no tach dramas. Regards Peter
  16. Hi, Finally fitted the 280ZX distributor & coil to my 240Z today. Wow what an incredible improvement and quite easy. I had a lot of questions ref this and intend to post a "how to for others", which I will do within the next few days. Regards Peter
  17. Tim, I bought carpet online and wasn't really happy with it. I have most of my old carpet for a template if you need it. Regards Peter
  18. New seatbelts are not that dear. In Jul 2007 I replaced the seat belts in my 73 240z with brand new original type static lap sash seat belts. I purchased them from Hemco industries in Ballarat Vic, who are professional accredited seatbelt manufacturers. I ordered the seat belts over the phone and payed by credit card. They made the seatbelts to my specification and posted them to Darwin for me. They came with all new bolts etc. Total cost including GST and delivery to Darwin was $133.19. The service was great and delivery was quick. Looking at the website now I don't think prices have increased too much. I certainly would not mess around with second hand seat belts - which I also believe are illegal anyway.
  19. Good stuff Tim, You don't mess around having it running already. Is this the one from Cranbrook? Regards Peter
  20. Once again, i found these people very good for seatbelts. Hemco Industries Seat Belt Division 118 Learmonth St. PO Box 444 Ballarat VIC 3353 Tel. (03) 5334 1213 Fax (03) 5334 1011 email seatbelt.sales@hemco.com.au http://www.hemco.com.au/seatbelts.html
  21. I got very good service off these people when I needed new seatbelts
  22. Are they allowed to sell secondhand seatbelts?
  23. Anyone with experience fitting 280ZX distributor & coil to a 240Z ?
  24. Thanks, I read this link earlier, the trouble is it conflicts with the info from the Atlantic Z Car site as it has the tacho coming off the negative side of the coil unlike the Atlantic Z Car info which has the tacho coming off the positive side of the coil. Regards Peter
  25. Hi, I am after some advice from all you people who have done the electronic distributor upgrade on a 240Z before. By all accounts it is quite simple and I have done a fair bit of reading into it including downloading info from the excellent Atlantic Z Car site. I have a 280zx distributor (E12- 80 module) and 280ZX coil I bought from RBX 30 (thanks Tim)to upgrade my 73 240Z. I am hoping some of the more experienced of you can read the steps I have outlined below and correct me if I have it wrong and also answer my questions. 1. There is a mention of a 280ZX distributor mounting bracket in the Atlantic Z Car info. Do I need one of these or should the 280Zx distributor slot straight in? I haven't yet taken the 240Z distributor off to physically compare the distributor bases, but from memory the 280ZX distributor drive looks longer. 2. The way I understand it I need to connect the black wire from the negative side of the coil to the C terminal on the ignition module on the 280ZX distributor. 3. Do I have to connect the existing black/white wire to the positive side of the coil and run another wire from the positive side of the coil to the B terminal on the ignition module on the 280ZX distributor? 4. Currently on my original 240Z coil there is a blue wire coming off the positive terminal on the coil to a small cylindrical shaped item (capacitor?) mounted on the inner guard at the coil bracket. Do I need this with the new distributor/coil? 5. I then need to disconnect the black/white and green/white wires from the ballast resistor and join them together. 6. There is a terminal on the 280ZX distributor - just above the vacuum advance unit, do I need to connect any thing to this? 7. From info I have read, to make the tacho work I need to put a 7500 - 10,000 ohm resistor on the wire to the tacho at the coil. Is this the black/white wire I have connected to the positive side of the coil at step two? I hope all of this makes some sense. Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Regards Peter
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